I have had the car for about 5 days. It has 114k and was WELL maintained. This has happened 2 times. The 1st time I barely noticed it. But on my way to work today after about 35 min of driving pulling out of a red light making a right turn about 3 seconds in the throttle and it quit. Car went to idle and no power. I pushed the pedal a few times and nothing. After about 5 seconds or so the throttle came back and it ran fine. I didn't see any dash lights, no engine shutter, no weird sounds. Any ideas??? I have searched the new with no exact same issues.

 

No one has any ideas to help??? This happened again this morning at cold startup..

 

Not really heard of this before. You can try resetting the throttle:

Put car in park
Pull handbrake up
Put in key and turn to position just before start (Do not start the car)
Push the gas pedal to the floor and wait 3 seconds
While still holding pedal to the floor turn key off but do not remove it
Release gas pedal and wait 2 minutes
Remove key and then put it back in and start the car
You should now notice improved response when pressing the gas.

Not sure this will address your issue, but it is worth a shot. You will also want to have the codes read (Autozone will do this for you if you don't have an OBD reader). Sometimes your car will throw a code without tripping the CEL.

 

My instinct would be a throttle position sensor going bad, but usually when they go bad the car will throw a check engine light. Where did you buy the car? If it was an audi dealer take it back to them and have them check it over and scan the computer for any codes that might have been stored. Most dealerships have some sort of limited warranty when they sell a car whether it be 3 days or 30 days. Without a check engine light code, it gets hard to diagnose now days.

 

I know there was little interest in this post. But I wanted to let you know my findings. I was running a cheap eBay OBD2 transmitter to Torque on an old android cell for some added gauges like Boost, speed, ect.... When I removed the OBD2 dongle, it cleared up.... so I ran it for a couple weeks, no issues. Pit it back in and BOOM, it happened again. So the obvious answer is the dongle did something that caused the issue... weird right....

I do still have the RPM fluctuation in 5th 6th gear. I have the TSB on that and am going to an Audi dealer for the tranny check.

 

Let us know what comes of that. I have light surging (50 RPM or so) with light throttle in 4-5 (probably happens in 6th as well, but I mostly notice it at lower speeds). I have no intention of fixing it until I have to, though.

 

Was it an actual idle that the engine went into or was it more of a fuel cut?

 

I've actually heard of this happening before. He used to keep the damn thing plugged in. I'd stay away from those things, who knows what they are doing to the ecu. I hate saying it, get yourself a vagcom.

 

UPDATE:

Just went to the Audi dealer "about 1.5 hr drive" talked to a VERY knowledgeable mechanic. He ran some scans, looked up some TSB's and gave me some grim news. The RMP fluctuation TRUE rix is to replace torque converter. There is a TSB that stated to replace fluid and filter in trans. But he told me that he has never seen that work and the true fix is replacement of the converter. He went through what is happening. The fluctuation happens when the clutches in the converter are engaging and disengaging "short version".

He gave me a quote that damn hear made me crap. $1900 in parts, 10 hrs labor at $106 per hr. Over 3k gang!! Unless the dealer I got the car from pays, I am living with the fluctuation.

 

Mine has started to do that. Usually when it is still cold and on the freeway. Goes away after a bit. I am going to keep driving with it until I can't anymore.

Would guess it is about a $1k repair outside the dealership.