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New brake pads and rotors @ 29K?

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  #11  
Old 11-19-2009, 12:48 PM
imaudi5000's Avatar
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my brakes have started to squeal pretty loudly recently. i got a 2008 2.0TQ and just reached 20k miles. the front brakes make the rims super dirty so im assuming they are soft pads like others said and should be replaced soon. i live up near syracuse NY now and was wondering if anyone had any recommendations on brake pads or places to get them replaced.
 
  #12  
Old 11-22-2009, 11:36 AM
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Reason the pads wear so much,,,too much metalic in the pads,go to tire rack .com & buy some pro stop ceramic pads,,,rotors will last longer,soft pads do not wear out the rotors. It's the high metalic content.
 

Last edited by Mean buzzen half dozen 08 A4; 11-25-2009 at 12:34 PM.
  #13  
Old 12-13-2009, 01:11 AM
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Originally Posted by 2wdBlazer

Do it your self. The only hard part is pushing the piston back in which requires pushing the piston in while turning it clockwise at the same time. A little tricky if you don't have a special tool.
Care to share the trick? The wifes car needs brakes and no way in h$ll and am I paying the dealer. I have heard that the fronts are straight forward, but the rears need a tool? Thanks much!
 
  #14  
Old 12-13-2009, 10:34 AM
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Just buy the tool. I spent hours on it before making a parts run. It pushes in and clockwise turn at the same time.
 
  #15  
Old 12-13-2009, 12:19 PM
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Yeah, I found the tool at Harbor Frieght for $25. It would be dumb to try it without it. I also read that it is pretty common to change the rotors with low mileage. The wifey's car only has 60000 miles, but I am thinking no way should the rotors need to be changed.
 
  #16  
Old 12-14-2009, 07:20 PM
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is the tool the common brake pad tool or something special?
 
  #17  
Old 12-14-2009, 07:22 PM
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  #18  
Old 12-22-2009, 09:15 PM
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thanks!
 
  #19  
Old 01-14-2010, 06:14 PM
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mines at 68,000 but gotta change it this weekend
 
  #20  
Old 01-30-2010, 01:16 PM
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the carpenters C-clamp works on rear brakes too.
What is good idea is to open the bleeder and push the fluid out while pushing the piston. Brake cylinders are the area where most contamination happens and it is better not take the chances to push the stuff back into ABS pump and master cylinder. This way you have good start for brake bleeding as well.
I just bought set of rotors and pads from Canadian dealer on ebay. Whole thing about $200 delivered with galvanized rotors. Stuff made in China, but that shouldn't matter for rotors. Pads works well as well.
Anyone knows the recommended pressure for power bleeding?
 


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