I started my timing belt replacement today and am getting my a$$ kicked. I got the car in service mode without any problems but have gotten stuck repeatedly after that. First the radiator drain would not open and was afraid to torque it too much for fear of breaking the plastic. I unclipped the bottom hose but it would not release. I would like to kick the Audi engineer in the junk that designed this mess. No way to get to the drain **** as it is right up against other pipes. I was able to finally get the thermostat replaced however. Worst part is I removed 5 of the crank pulley hex bolts without a problem but the sixth was either stripped previously or it was a triple square, idk, but I may be stuck here. Any advice on getting this bolt out? Thanks.

 

Ouch! You are getting your a$$ kicked. My drain **** is worthless too. To get the lower hose, put a big screwdriver on it from the front side of the radiator. Tap on it if you have to. Move it around the circumference and keep tapping.


As for the pulley bolt, its only a triple square if someone replaced it. They are all hex from the factory. You can take the whole front off without releasing the R134. Take the condenser off the car and swing it down, then the whole front will come off and you can get a better shot at the pulley bolt.

 

Thanks. Got a link to instructions for the condenser/front end removal?? I googled it but couldn't find anything. I'm going to have to do this to get access. I can't get to it in the service position. I tried a big "easy out" but just stripped it more. I ran out this morning and got a set of "bolt outs" but there is not enough room between the bolt and the center crank bolt to get any traction on the stripped one. I need space to get a persuader to it.

 

I don't, but I think you're pretty close. If you are in service position, leave the radiator in, but pull both hoses, tranny cooling lines if you have an auto, remove the bolts that hold the condenser and swing it down under the car. Unplug those two big plugs by the PS reservoir and it should all come out.


Easy out was a good shot, but I think you'll be drill the head off that Allen.

 

Thanks. I was finally able to get access and drill off the bolt head. Doing the timing belt change went fast after that. All back together and went for a test drive. After getting in there it looks like there may have been some work done in the past. The timing belt did not look like it had 85000 miles on it but the bearing was going out on one of the rollers. We've had chirping at start up for a while but that is gone now. We had excellent history of all the work that was done from the original owner who had everything done at the dealership but there was another short time owner that may have had work done. We've had it for 3 years now and I've had to do most of the routine stuff (diverter valve, PCV, cam follower, etc) plus new convertible top and top motor. This was the last big thing that I knew needed to be done. Hope I don't have to get in there again any time soon. It sure seems that the engineers go out of their way to make things more difficult than they need to be.

 

Yea to me, I used to have the bumper off my B5 in about 10 - 15 mins. This one takes me an hour. There were just snaps on the B5 belt covers, there are bolts on this one. Seems lots of things are harder on the B7 timing belt job.


Just did my belt last weekend. 86,000 miles and it looked like new. But by and large, one of those idlers, or maybe the water pump, is what dies and that kills the belt.