where i live it gets to -40 and when i floor the gas pedal at that kind of temperature the gas consumption reading is the same during the summer.

 

Your gas consumption isn't going to say much about how much power your car is making. If you have a vagcom log block 004 for the IAT readings, do logs in summer and in winter.

 

i disagree. i think the IAT is related to how much fuel is added. if the IAT is high, the fuel is cut back at WOT (wide open throttle). if the IAT is low, more fuel is added at WOT.

maybe the OP could be the guinea pig who can do an unbiased dyno run before and after. manufacturers will make false promises to make profits.

 

The ecu uses the IAT reading to figure out how much timing it should pull back. As the IAT rises the ECU starts pulling more timing back, this will have a slight effect on how much fueling is sprayed since there is less timing.

Less timing = Less power.

The graphs above are not from any manufacture. They were done by actual customers who paid for the product.

 

that graph shows a temperature difference of 10 degrees during the same season or even same day. the ambient air temperature difference between winter and summer where i live is 60 degrees. you'd think 60 degree cooler air would make some difference with the fuel consumption or timing but it doesn't appear to.

another FMIC vendor doesn't even suggest a FMIC until you have significant mods. was it AWE..? i can't remember. naturally, a larger surface area IC will provide more cooling but with freakishly cold ambient air temperatures it has even more of a cooling effect and my car doesn't produce more power than it does during the summer. that tells me the stock intercooler is more than sufficient.

 

Their FMIC is designed for a larger turbo, so that is why a company might suggest a FMIC isn't needed till a turbo upgrade. I didn't suggest going to a FMIC, the info I am giving is for a Dual SMIC upgrade. The size of the intercooler needs to match the flow of the turbo. You dont throw on a FMIC rated for 400-500hp on a car making 200-300hp.


There must be something wrong with your car if it make the exact same power in warm temps vs cold temps where the air is way more dense. Maybe your tune doesn't have enough timing to take advantage of the lower IAT's. Logging block 022 would show how much timing the ECU is pulling back. If it is not pulling any back in warm conditions it is not adding much timing when the temps are much colder.

A larger surface area allow more outside air to make contact with it cooling the air that is only making contact with the front surface of the core, but the over all size of the core is what really counts since air is flowing in every part of the core. At first the air is only flowing there the area between the inlet/outlet, and then spreads out as the resistance in that section goes up. The air is always going to follow the path with the least amount of resistance.

You are not telling me anything I dont know already seeing that I have a very large core on my 800hp A4 1.8t. I have had many different FMIC's on my car, changing it every time I changed my turbo setup or when I started making more power then the FMIC could handle.

 

If the guy has a hole in it then get a new stocker from the classifieds. How much does yours cost? Enough to keep us from cheaper power adders? If yours was super cheap then I would tell people to get it but even though we own AUDI's does not mean we have alot of extra mod money.

 

I have a GB going right now on the ER Dual SMIC kit for $669 shipped, well thats if I can get 15 people and right now I only have 7. That kit lists for $895 + shipping. So a savings of about $260.

 

Too rich for me. Im sure its a nice product but that price will put someone in a stage 2 car instead.

 

Yes but whats the point of going stage 2 if the stock SMIC's are heat soaking and the power ends up decreasing. It is called "supporting mods".