Do to the overwelming pm's and aol im's, I will take the time to make a how-to thread. I know it is a little later than promised but i had camera problems. But I have taken the time and made the pics as discriptive as possible.

A little info first, my car has been running this for well over a year now with ZERO fueling issues and my brother's 1.8t '03 passat (this how-to car) has been running it for over 6 months now with ZERO issues also.

This is a simple procedure that will extract more power out of you car for very little cost. I would recommend this to those of you that are eithershort on cash and still want more power before buying a chip or to those like me that have bigger plans in the future and dont want to spend $500+ on a chip just to need to change it again for the larger turbo.

YOU NEED A MAP EQUIPED CAR - '00 +MODEL

WARNING: THIS IS TO RAISE THE BOOST TO A SAFE 16-18PSI ON ASTOCK FPR (USE AT OWN RISK)

Parts needed:

a4.3v 1w zener diode
a mbc or ebc (i recommend a bleed valve for the small stock turbo for smoothness, combo bleed/ball and spring is better)
a boost guage w/ vacuum guage (which you should have anyways)
vacuum hose

Tools needed:

Electric tape
Soldering iron and lead (or some other way to connect the diode to the map wires)
wire stripper/clippers (to peal back the wire cover)

Boost guage:

The first thing you will want to do in this process is to install the boost gauge. If you have one or know how to install one please skip on down. The reason is to make sure you know how to read and understand the boost level of your car.

Stock pressure of the B5/B5.5's is 9 psi

The best place to start is to install the end of the line to the FPR. Takea little peice of vacuum hose to connect the top of the Tee to the FPR and then the stock line to the bottom of theTee and the boost gauge line to the side part of the Tee. Next remove the cover and run the line through the grommet.



Then run the line to thesecond grommet below into the cabin. Pokeor cut a holeto allow the hose to slide through(TIP with a wire coat hanger trimmed to about 10-12" inside the vac hose makes it much easier).



Connect the vacumm line to the boost guage (trim as much of theexcess line offas possible)and make the power connections to either aaccesory power source or a light switch (personal preference) and of course the ground. After the gauge is installed, it would be wise to go and drive the car and make sure you are seeing the right amount of psi before continueing.




Diode install

First disconnect the battery. Please make sure you have the radio code first so you dont have to listen to silence for awhile.

thenyou need to find the map sensor. It will be attached to the intercooler




Follow the MAP and then expose the 3 wires inside the cover. You will seea WHITE, BLUE, AND BLACK wire. You will need to connect the BLUE AND THE BLACK wires together with the diode.



After identifieng the two wires, you then will want to strip the wire coversback to expose the wires. Next trim the diode down as far as you feel comfortable using and bend the sides down so the diode can be hidden better. Then solder the diode inbetween the two wires connecting them. After making sure the wires do not touch reconnect the battery and start the car. If the car starts and idles fine you are good, if it stumbles you have the diode in backwards and need to flip it and try again.

After the diode has been installed correctly, tape everything up to keep the wires from touching.

Then go for a drive. Since the ECU is now seeing 11psi instead of 9psi you should have an increase in boost. If not, dont be surprised.

YOU MAY WANT TO DISCONNECT THE BATTERY AGAIN IF YOU DONT HAVE A VAGCOM CABLE TO DO A THROTTLE BODY ALIGNMENT.
To do this you need to let the ecu reset (disconnected for ~10mins) and then reconnect the battery. You then go into the car and turn the car ON and not start it. You will then hear a high pitched whinning noise from the tb. Wait till it ends (few mins) and then start the car. You are done.



MBC install

There are so many varieties of mbc and ways to install it in the 1.8t. I prefer to remove the n75 from the equation and run just a mbc. Some have prefered to run the mbc before the n75, so the install will be up to you. It really depends on the MBC and which way is smoother to you. I will cover both.

First thing you will want to do is make sure your mbc is setup correctly. Ball and springs need adjusted until you cant hear the ball moving inside the controller anymore and bleed valves just need closed all the way. After the MBC has been adjusted you can install it.

N75: THE PATH IS FROM THE INTERCOOLER PIPINGTO THE N75 TO THE WASTEGATE. AFTER THE N75 WILL PUT THE N75 BETWEEN THE N75 AND THE WASTEGATE. YOU WILL JUST ADD A LITTLE VACUUM HOSE FROM THE N75 TO THE MBC AND THEN THE MBC TO THE WASTGATE.



Replacing the n75:

For this method just remove the hoses from the n75 and install them in the MBC and you are done, for the a4/passat you may want to add a strait Tee and some hose to move the MBC to a more accessable location like in the install car. Just make sure you have it in the right direction, if it is backwards you most likely will be runing off the wastegate (~5psi) and if correct you will be near what you had before depending on how the mbc is adjusted.




After the n75:

You will need to disconnect only the hose from the wastegate to the n75and mount the mbc where ever you want it.Then run a vacuum line to connects thewastegate to thembcand a line from the MBC to the n75 and you are done.I dont have a pic of this but it is simple enough. Same is above for if the mbc is backwards.

Adjusting boost levels:

Finally the hardware is installed and you will just need to set the level you are comfortable with. 16-17psi is safe on stock fueling . For 18-20psi you will need to increase fuel pressure to be safe. If you have any worries, anincreased FPRcan be installed at any level of boost and will not hurt or harm performance. It may take a few cycles for the ecu to adapt to the added fuel but will not bereally noticable when installed.

Just work in small increases to get to the desired psi. Go through differnt types of loads to make sure you dont peak to high in differnt loads.Once set,you are finished and able to enjoy the new found power increase.

As always I am available for questions either in this thread for all to see or in private via pms or on aol.

 

fixed pics

 

Thanks for the write up. As soon as I get my car back, I'm going to do this mod.

I like your positioning of the boost gauge - I've been trying to find a good spot to put one that is more or less out of sight. Any recommendations on for a boost controller?

 

any good bleed valve like a turbosmart. That one is actually a knock off version and works great.

 

Holy cow. I've never seen instructions so well put together. Thinking of doing any others? Perhaps a light mod?

 

I am currently buying the pieces to do this mod. Thanks for the excellent write up. I cant wait

 

chips are over rated... do it like the DSM crowd and just crank the boost up using a mbc... it wont hurt anything as long as your not dumb and try to boost 25lbs on stock fuel system.

16lbs is nothing that will make you start knocking

 

i did it a few weeks ago its pretty sweet. i keep getting a lean code but i think its from a bad maf or bad o2 sensor

for instaling the diode the end with the black strip on it goes to the grey/blue wire

 

ya its nothing, just blew up my turbo[&:]

 

dont be stupid next time...