Aftermarket true HID replacement for H4 Hi/Lo Bi Xenon
H4 is a bulb that provide both hi and lo beams, an outdated technology still found in many cars and motorcycles out there.
8000k will deliver a light on the blue side and not provide as much usable light as a 4300K. If you do a lot of night driving you want to reconsider.
8000k will deliver a light on the blue side and not provide as much usable light as a 4300K. If you do a lot of night driving you want to reconsider.
These forums have been a great help as I learn to repair my old 00 A4 myself.
I am now beginning the investigation of converting my 00 A4's halogen to HID. I have read that the lens can melt if I change only the bulb/ballast mechanism. Is this correct?
I am now beginning the investigation of converting my 00 A4's halogen to HID. I have read that the lens can melt if I change only the bulb/ballast mechanism. Is this correct?
Hi everyone:
The H4 is a single bulb unit per side, so a total of 2 bulbs per vehicle. I'm not sure what the A4 has, but if the halogen bulb says H4, it will be a H4 configuration which is Hi/Lo beam in one single bulb, 2 bulbs per vehicle. I have been driving my 1990 90 Quattro 20V with the vvme Bi-Xenon H4 for a few weeks now and it is definitely better than the halogen H4. However, to get the best light pattern, I strongly recommend switching over to an Euro H4headlight rather than the DOT version which is horrible. I switched over to Euro H4 right after I bought my 90 Q20V. Now, for A4, I don't know how the light pattern is so you have to figure it out on your own. Like I've mentioned before, for the price, vvme is really inexpensive, under $100 and so far they work well. If you have money to spare, go for the German's HID kit, German y products are always better and last longer. I don't plan on keeping my 90Q20V for more than a few more years so the inexpensive vvme fits the budget even though I don't like to buy anything that says Made In China. As far as melting your wires and lens goes, I think if you use the high watt halogen bulbs, you may have a problem there but true HID kit, I don't believe so. I used to run Osram 80W/85W H4 in my car and I never encountered any melting problems. I have used non-OEM HID conversion kits since they first came out(over $1,000 way back
) and I love them ever since. Go buy the true Bi-Xenon, it will help you see better. Keep the colour temperature value close to 4300K rather than the higher value like 8000K and beyond. the lower the K value, the more true light output it will provide. Now, for the Cool Factor
, perhaps the higher K value, the cooler it looks but lesser light output it will have. Good luck and go HID
The H4 is a single bulb unit per side, so a total of 2 bulbs per vehicle. I'm not sure what the A4 has, but if the halogen bulb says H4, it will be a H4 configuration which is Hi/Lo beam in one single bulb, 2 bulbs per vehicle. I have been driving my 1990 90 Quattro 20V with the vvme Bi-Xenon H4 for a few weeks now and it is definitely better than the halogen H4. However, to get the best light pattern, I strongly recommend switching over to an Euro H4headlight rather than the DOT version which is horrible. I switched over to Euro H4 right after I bought my 90 Q20V. Now, for A4, I don't know how the light pattern is so you have to figure it out on your own. Like I've mentioned before, for the price, vvme is really inexpensive, under $100 and so far they work well. If you have money to spare, go for the German's HID kit, German y products are always better and last longer. I don't plan on keeping my 90Q20V for more than a few more years so the inexpensive vvme fits the budget even though I don't like to buy anything that says Made In China. As far as melting your wires and lens goes, I think if you use the high watt halogen bulbs, you may have a problem there but true HID kit, I don't believe so. I used to run Osram 80W/85W H4 in my car and I never encountered any melting problems. I have used non-OEM HID conversion kits since they first came out(over $1,000 way back
) and I love them ever since. Go buy the true Bi-Xenon, it will help you see better. Keep the colour temperature value close to 4300K rather than the higher value like 8000K and beyond. the lower the K value, the more true light output it will provide. Now, for the Cool Factor
, perhaps the higher K value, the cooler it looks but lesser light output it will have. Good luck and go HID
Thanks, Phoenix
I appreciate the informantion. I'm way too old for cool, really just trying to get a better lighting source, so I'll stick to the 4300 area. I have also just come across the potential need to beter focus the light when switching from halogen to HID. The term used was "bedazzling" (and here, I thought that was just a Lil Bush term) which referred to an unfocused pattern. Are new projectors also called for? LLTEK's appear to be similar to those already installed.
I appreciate the informantion. I'm way too old for cool, really just trying to get a better lighting source, so I'll stick to the 4300 area. I have also just come across the potential need to beter focus the light when switching from halogen to HID. The term used was "bedazzling" (and here, I thought that was just a Lil Bush term) which referred to an unfocused pattern. Are new projectors also called for? LLTEK's appear to be similar to those already installed.
the audi a4 is just a low beam, youll need a h7 bulb http://ddmtuning.com/hidkihidbuhi.html they have the best kits and they have 55 watt kits which give the most light possible do that youll never be dissapointed with them.
i just took a look at http://ddmtuning.com/hidkihidbuhi.html and in teh first kit..does that include everything you need cause its only 55 bucks..it just seems to good to be true for HIDS..lol
like what is the difference then between this kit http://www.customstreetdesigns.com/5069-CF-HID-H9.htm and the kit that is linked in the above post? this one is 150 and the other one is madd cheap.. is it not the real deal?


