oh i just thought of something. if its not too much then just disconnect the caliper compleatly and try using compressed air on the part where the brake line comes in and blow the piston out make sure to put padding on the other side of caliper for when it comes out. i also remebered that the reason you turn them in is because the piston uses helical cut gears that can be easialy striped and if they are you do need a new caliper. come to think of it i bet that is the problem. i just can seem to remeber what it is that people do to strip them. i just remember that its easy to do if you dont know about it. well i hope that ive help as best i could.

 

Thanks. I'll start looking for a metering valve to see if this helps.

 

undo the bleed nipple and rotate and push the piston back ( sounds filthy) some of the later cars need diagnostic tool to retract the break piston because its electronic

 

OK. I got to retract. It took an unexpected amount of effort but I removed the rotor, re-assembled the caliper mounting bracket and the caliper so I could hold the caliper still while using two hands on the retraction tool. What I ended up using was the channel-lock pliers on the end of the tool so that I could be maximum leverage...anyway, it took a while but it eventually went back.

Either I am a 200lb weakling or this thing was stuck. Anyway, I just test drove the car and all seems to work fine. Thank you for your help and advice. I rely on these forums and am glad that I have them in my "tool box"

Patrick