I'm not sure if there is anything left for me to replace!
So far new DV, oil catch can, new MAF, new IAT sensor, new "PCV" valve (flat top valve off the air box).

Background:
Started shortly after getting flashed (GIAC) my 2000 180 Quattro Coupe ATC engine code TT would throw the EPC light.
God forbid if I happen to boost in any gear; my friend EPC comes to visit! [>:]
When the EPC light comes on the RPMS drop down to 10k and stay there; regardless of how much I step on the gas.
I finally got a CEL, read out is as follows:

2 Faults found:
17743 - Engine Torque Monitor 2: Control Limit Exceeded
P1335 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent

18010 - Power Supply Terminal 30: Voltage too low
P1602 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent

Since then (9/14/2007) I've thrown P1335 about 3-5 times.
First the EPC will come on; I turn the car off and back on (EPC goes off). After a few EPC cycles I'll get P1335.

I really don't know what else to do! It's also not easy replacing parts with 3 broken ribs; luckily my neighbor helps out on occasion.
Any ideas? Could it be the breather valve? I'd really rather not have to take my intake mani off while it's snowing...

Thanks in advance!
-EPC got the best of me

 

I don't know what the "torque monitor" is, but it sounds like you have a bad sensor.

 

Yeah one of the causes of P1335 is the IAT sensor. Which has since been replaced, the wires of the sensor had a nice "burnt" look.
I may just have to wait until I heal in order to take all of the intake hoses off, and give them a good cleaning.
Not really sure what else to do... [:@]

 

Bump for tech insight!

 

Update:
I will be replacing the hose from my N75 to the wastegate. My boost gauge isn't showing as much vac as it should (10 in.hg instead of around 20 in.hg) .
So there might be a leak, and hopefully this is where it will be!
Is there anything I should know about this before purchasing parts? Do you think this will solve my EPC woes?
Thoughts, comments, concerns all much appreciated!

 

the fist thing i would think is the iat. but seeing how you already replaced that, the easiest thing to test next would be the ecm voltage value. basically "is the car getting the correct amount of voltage." if this is good check the tb alignment or adaptation. it wouldnt hurt to do the adaptation over again and listen for it to be working correctly. if you want to get fancy with the diagnosis you can measure voltage at the tp sensor and the gas pedal. this process is time consuming and a pita. i have a feeling it is more than likely to be the tp sensor cause i have run into this before. if that dosent do it, look to the pedal. i do reccomend you check the voltage values first though to be sure but most people rather troubleshoot by replacing stuff ( i am one of them.) that way you arent wasting money.

 

if all of this fails then you should have went unitronic...lol

 

Heh! Thanks Ray! I'll find someone with vag-com to check the voltage.
The TP sensor is Throttle Pressure I'm assuming? I may just buy a new one anyway, I also repair by replacing parts!

What do you think about the drop in vac? When I first installed my boost gauge vac was steady at 20 during idle.
Now it's sits at about 10-12 during idle. *shrugs*

 

tp is throttle position. about the loss in vacuum....did it occur about 100 miles after chipping?

 

That's hard to say. I just recently noticed it, because I had my boost gauge disconnected for awhile.
It very well could have been though. Before getting getting flashed vac was 20 and boost would spike to about 9 or 11 psi.
After getting flashed my boost gauge wasn't hooked up (needed a clamp to stay on the T).
Currently vac is 10-12 and boost was at 15 psi at one point. I haven't seen much boost lately, since I've been shifting early to avoid the EPC light.
Which doesn't always work.