After my check engine light came on in my 00' A6 2.7T, I stopped by a German cars ony auto shop and had them run the codes. Here is what they came out with:

P1113 - Bank 1 sensor / resistance too high
P0421 - Primary catalytic converter Bank 1 not efficient enough
P1423 - Secondary air injection system flow too low Bank 1
P1411 - Secondary air injection system flow too low Bank 2
P1136 - Long term fuel trim add fuel Bank 1 too lean
P0431 - Primary catalytic converter Bank 2 not efficient enough
P1138 - Long term fuel trim system too lean Bank 2
P1131 - Bank 2 sensor 1 resistance too high
P1129 - Long term fuel trim mult, Bank 2 system too rich
P1127 - Long term fuel trim mult, Bank 1 system too rich

This also came up, but the mechanic thinks that it may just be a loose wire:

P1392 - Cam position sensor Bank 2, open

As for the other codes, the guy said that it more than likely has to do with multiple O2 sensors going bad, but could be something more global like a fuel injector burning up and just dumping fuel into a cylinder. he said that he would have to taken the engine out to change out the O2 sensors. I know that it might be a bit tight in the engine bay, but that seemed a little excessive. He quoted about $3k to fix! If anyone has had a problem like this or know anyone on here who knows a good deal about this sort of thing, please pass on some help. Thanks

 

Befor spending 3K get another quote.

http://1.8t.org/tuners/

http://www.audifans.com/mechanic.php

http://www.goapr.com/Audi/dealer/locator.php

http://www.giacusa.com/dealers.php?sregion=

 

I
the first thing to check is the sec air flow system. this can make a fault to the o2 sensor. most common trouble is a vacuum leak at the hoses plugged at the 2 combi valve. they are bolted on the rear of each head. you have to check (with a audi scan tool ) the function of the secondary air pump and solenoïd if its ok.

After that erase all fault and recheck if its light it up again...

 

Would that be a VAG-COM tool you mention?

 

I would also take a look at the maf sensor as strange fuel trim readings can occur from it reading incorrectly. Also check to make sure you dont have a ruptured diaphram in one or both of your diverter valves. That could cause simialar faults. In any case engine removal is not necesary to replace the oxygen sensors if they indeed turn out to be the culprits, which is also a possiblity. The cam sensor code is going to be a loose or broken wire, or possibly a faulty cam adjuster but if its a hard fault the cam adjuster would show an open circuit when its resistance is measured.

 

Fellas...thanks for the replies. I had the codes troubleshot by a local german auto repair shop. They said that the Air Mass Meter needed to be replaced. I' taking that this is the same as the MAF sensor. They sadi repalce that first and then replace the two O2 sensors after the cats if there are still some error codes. My questions now is, does anyone know of a really good on-line source for these items that are OEm and don't cost an arm and a leg? I' guessing that the MAF sensor is pretty easy to replace...

 

P1392 could be the problem for all the other codes because it would cause it to fire at the wrong time therefore spurious readings would be given

P1392 causes are wiring open circuit to positive, cam sensor had it

 

Thanks Dave....where should I look for the wire?

 

cam sensor is on the cylinder head scanning the cams location just like the crank sensor does so shouldn't be hard to find, I don't have pictures of it, if you get stuck ill do some searches for you

 

Multiple error codes is a good thing because it means something simple is causing the problem and the other sensors are picking it up, have you removed the plastic cover on the engine at any time?? have you been cleaning the engine?? if so the chances are you caught something or its touching the exhaust manifold which could have burned through a wire