My front rotor looks to have some grooves in it that are deep and my brakes squeak from time to time. I also feel a slight pull when I hit the brakes somewhat hard, or sometimes not hard at all..almost like my alignment is off a little (which it might be) as it pulls to the right a little as I'm steering.


Questions:

1. What can I expect to pay if I had to replace a rotor/rotors to a complete brake overhaul if I go to a dealership?

2. Does anyone else have a similar experience that they can share about dealing with a dealership in replacing these parts and costs associated with that?

I would just like a ballpark figure on what to expect and if it's even a wise idea going to an Audi "specialist" thats not on the dealership grounds...

I also did want to mention that I purchased a 2 year extended warranty with this car and it's a major warranty but I'm unsure if rotors/brakes would be covered in this warranty.

Car has 36K miles on it.

Any thoughts?

Thanks in advance

 

Do you have any pics of your RS6?

I had the Stealership replace the Front rotors and pads along with a full brake fluid flush not too long ago on my RS6.. Expect to pay around $1,800 for replacement of the front 2.

I have an aftermarket warranty and it did not cover the cost of the brakes.

 

Thanks GIAC-RS6 for the information.

I will get that checked out tomorrow.

Have you found any good sites for RS6 after-market items that you like?

Enclosed are some pics..not sure what happened to my last account..it all of the sudden didn't recognize my password and after asking to reset it several times I get nothing..maybe just email lag..who knows.

 

Purchase the components - rotors and pads - and do the work yourself. It's very easy to do.

Pull the wheel off the car (don't forget to jack it up first or it makes removing the rotors a pain...)

Pull on the rotor on the opposite side of the caliper. This will push the pads in a tad and should loosen the rotor a bit. You may want to put one of the lug bolts in loosely to keep the rotor from trying to escape and/or attack one of your fingers.

Since you're going to toss the old rotor and pads, take a fairly large flat blade screw driver and slowly work the pads back into the caliper until they seat against the caliper body. Work the screw driver down between the rotor and pads to do this. You want to work across the face of the pad, not just in one spot. If you do just one spot, it's easy to **** the pistons in the calipers a bit and make them no fun to push farther in. If you do end up with a cocked piston, start the car, push on the brake pedal a couple times to release the piston, turn the car off and then start working the pads again.

Mine ended up having close to 1/4" of room between the rotor and pads on each side once the pads were fully pushed back.

You will have to work all four pads out - and if you can wedge something in between the pad and the rotor once you get the pad bottomed out, it will help. Another screw driver does the trick fairly easily. A piece of wood dowel works - anything just to hold the pad out away from the rotor. Do this to all pads.

Find the wire that runs from the pads to the connector on the arm and disconnect it. I think I may have had to remove a small retaining tab? - can't recall, sorry.

Now unbolt the two large (I believe you need either an 8mm or 10mm allen wrench) socket head cap screws that hold the caliper on and pull the caliper off.

Remove the lug bolt and the rotor should just about fall off in your hands.

There are two pins on each caliper that hold the pads in place. I can't recall how they're fitted - seems like they just press in and there's a backing plate that holds them in place. Just take a long hard look at the system and you should be able to figure it out. These calipers are designed very similarly (if not directly) to racing calipers, so the ability to quickly and easily remove the pads is built in.

Slide the new rotor on.

Put the caliper (w/o pads) back on.

The pads have a pair of backing plates - pay attention to how they're arranged when you pull the pads. One fits in the other and then the two clip over the pad (as I recall - darn, should have paid more attention and done a picture write up. Oh well...)

Work the pads in place, paying attention to the one that has the lead - make sure you put it in the same place as the one that had it came out of.

Once you get the pads back in and the retaining pins back in, torque the socket head cap screws to 92 lb-ft.

Put the wheel back on.

LAST BUT NOT LEAST - THIS IS EXTREMELY IMPORTANT: BEFORE YOU DRIVE THE CAR, START IT AND PUMP THE BRAKES UNTIL YOU HAVE PEDAL FEEL AGAIN. FAILURE TO DO SO MAY LEAD TO THE FIRST ATTEMPT AT STOPPING NOT WORKING. YOU MUST SEAT THE PADS OR YOU WILL NOT HAVE BRAKES AT FIRST.

Sorry for yelling, but it's extremely important...

It took me about an hour do to the job. I'd never touched the front brake system of the car before, so it was a totally green attempt.

Take your time, check stuff out as you pull it apart and put things down in the order they came off - make a list if needed. The more organized you can be about it, the better. Do one side at a time and check the other side for clues if you get out of sorts.

 

I got most of my parts through a local shop but you can buy the Milltek exhaust at
http://www.stratmosphere.com
Under the A6 section.

Your RS looks Fkin NICE man. love the blk/blk
I want to get all of the silver trim on mine painted flat black soon..

 

Taking the thread a bit off topic (sorry guys), but please document each step when you do - I plan on doing the same thing and have yet to figure out how to remove the trim.

 

I will try this..maybe :-) I'm probably not as mechanically inclined as you guys are.

Thanks for the detailed instructions..I'll read over them again.

Thanks GIAC for the comments on the car..yeah I like it allot. I'm so glad to be part of this community. I'll check out those parts. What does your exhaust sound like? Like your wheels BTW.

 

If you can turn a wrench and use a pair of pliers, you can do it. This really is a simple (relative to many other aspects of working on the car) job.

Ah here we go - What I paid for the rotors and pads
Rotors - List is $453.57, I paid $392.86 each.
Part numbers are 4B3-615-301-E and 4B3-615-302-A

Pads - List is $363.05, I paid $316.44 for the set.
Part number is 4B3-698-151-A

These are all OEM parts. I'd do a search on aftermarket pads for the car. I've seen more than one post recommending other than stock.

 

My exhaust sounds a lot like this
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jTToKEf-Zz8

I would work on m RS but I'd never trust myself to do it without doing something wrong..

 

That exhaust sounds great...is that your car or is just an example? If that is not your car in the video..does your car sound like that? Wow..that's a nice sound. Do you find it too loud for everyday use?