can you tell if my ecu and diverters are stock?
oh ok well i guess im glad i got that then! what sucks now is the wheelhoping that i was talkin about in a previous thread im almost positive my clutch is gone...just revs high and hardly moves...it sucks! dealership said it was fine and it was ok for like the first 2 days now its horrible...duno what im gonna do. no warranty
i havnt had this car for even a week...when i test drove it it drove fine...first day or 2 i had the car i noticed the "wheelhop" now i just tryed to drive my car tonight i had to redline it to get it to move at all...my gf just called them today and told them...im gonna go in monday if they are open and talk to them....i wonder why it was driving fine when i test drove it and now its completely gone...can they do something to it to make it drive ok for a lil while? and do you guys know if legally screw me on this?
Your rights depend on the state. The same thing happened to me. 4k miles after I bought my 2000 the clutch is slipping. I did add a chip which helped to accelerate it, but so far I've put 3k into the car's problems. Overall, I'm still OK as I got a killer deal on the car. I don't know of anything you can do to a clutch to make it work for a while longer so it was just your bad luck.
The ECU looks stock, but so will a flashed ECU, unless they put the sticker on it. The best way is to get a Vag-com & log block 115, so see what the boost is. If it's around 10psi, it's stock.
The ARP Bi-Pipe is a good thing to have, but some of them came from the factory with pin hole leaks.
The DV's are Forge 007 in black, you might want to take them apart every oil change to clean & relube.
The ARP Bi-Pipe is a good thing to have, but some of them came from the factory with pin hole leaks.
The DV's are Forge 007 in black, you might want to take them apart every oil change to clean & relube.
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