Has anyone ever had this happen?

Driving home fast in 4th (automatic) and suddenly, all the dash lights come on (traction control, abs, brake), the car starts flashing the Brake light, the battery icon appears on the LCD display, the gear display has inverted color to mostly red, the car won't shift into any other gear (except 4th) even from a stand-still, AND all gauges are stuck in their position until I shut the car off, then they jitter back to 0.
Disconnected/reconnected the battery-- same problem; Clunking into drive/reverse in my driveway. I hate this car. Now, it makes sense-- how I could afford a car like this 2 years ago. No barriers to entry, but will tax the shiet out of your savings. Bah-humbug.

no fluid leaks, or odd smells-- nothing obvious to me.

I could cry.

 

I hate to say this, but you need to have the codes read. Are you close to a shop, or even an autozone. Having some direction will be helpful in this matter.

All the PRNDL lights like that along with all the warning lights, makes me think there was a power loss somewhere.

Check all your fuses too.

Mike

 

I know that feeling of hate... Maybe your alternator died? Have you had any recent work done on the car? And +1 to having the codes read.

Josh

 

I second the alternator suggestion only because,
I had a 1995 Grand Am ( I know...) about 10 years ago that went through about 3 alternators in 2 years.

It was frying the voltage regulators and causing unstable voltage levels. And everything was going haywire.

It had the same exact symptoms as you described.

It could be something completely different but it's worth a shot.

Take it to a shop and have the charging system checked.

 

Well...I never thought about checking the fuses or the alternator for 14.4V when running-- very smart and gives me much hope, Thank you ALL. I never would correlate a bad alternator with a stuck automatic transmission, but I can now see how a faulty electrical system might alter the computer and how it talks to tranny.

Recent work done you ask? But of course! 2 months ago I had the timing belt/cam-shaft plugs done.

The Check Engine Light was on for a couple weeks and on my way to the mechanic (yesterday) it shut off-- he read the code, and it he told me it was something to do with the oxygen temp sensor, and reset it anyhow.

Autozone (here anyhow) will NOT let you borrow their code scanners anymore-- I tried a month ago. Too bad. Though I do see some for ~$35 on ebay, but don't know if I need the CAN bus (?) model.

I will post my findings tonight or tomorrow. Please GOD, make it something simple.

 

Results:
--Fuses in the side of dash are all fine. Who knows where the other's are.
--at idle, the alternator pushes about 14.4. BUT, at about 3300 RPM the LCD battery light came on and the gauges stopped functioning. Actually, they became stuck. At about 4000 RPM, the alternator pushes 18.5 volts! This isn't supposed to be like that right? Should remain 14.4 volts across the RPM range I think. Voltage regulator faulty, and fried/frying the computer?

--At about 100 MPH, in fourth gear, the same happened.
Any ideas or advice? (thank you)

 

Yup alternator and or voltage reg... i would NOT run your car anymore and I really hope you didn't fry anything! Fuses will only blow if there is to many amps going through them... not voltage so thats why no fuses are blown.

Josh

 

Yep, that seems to be the case.
It's not frying the computer though just sending it mixed signals.
It's not necessarily good for it either, though.
Just take it somewhere and have a charging system test done to be certain.
I think Sears does them free, and maybe Autozone too.

 

^+1 One of the two components is definitely failing. The only trouble is, to truly check to see which is the problem (if not both) is to remove them and test individually. The alternator especially is a bitch to get out...hope you can DIY or have a decent budget.

Also, the code that your mechanic cleared, did you copy it? I'm surprised he just cleared it and didn't even give you any more info on what it was?

 

You can test a charging system without removing either component.

A load test can verify if the regulator is modulating the field current in order to produce a constant voltage at the stator output.

A Sabre or Bear tester can do most tests with the touch of a button.

The regulator is built into the alternator on these and most newer cars.
You need to replace the alternator as a whole in either scenario.