Help Sweed out!
So I'm racing this 997tt and I have 4 cars on him and I wake up, lol.
Ok seriously, I think I have an answer but not 100%. When I brought my car in for stage 3 stuff, I asked the guy to check out the CA's and TRE's and all that because its clunking around.They replaced the CA's and I think the TRE's also.SO I get my car back and it's still making a clunking noise when I am breaking. Only once and maybe twice a anotehr clunk will sound. Also yesterday was making clunking noises when I was turning left, but now not anymore. I was told this is probably the CV joint.
Can I get some confirmation? I need to get this fixed before really punching my car, I am a little nervous to do so right now.
Thanks!
Ok seriously, I think I have an answer but not 100%. When I brought my car in for stage 3 stuff, I asked the guy to check out the CA's and TRE's and all that because its clunking around.They replaced the CA's and I think the TRE's also.SO I get my car back and it's still making a clunking noise when I am breaking. Only once and maybe twice a anotehr clunk will sound. Also yesterday was making clunking noises when I was turning left, but now not anymore. I was told this is probably the CV joint.
Can I get some confirmation? I need to get this fixed before really punching my car, I am a little nervous to do so right now.
Thanks!
If they replaced ALL the ca's then yes it is possible to be a cv joint, they will make the same sound. However cv's only really go if there is a tear in the boot, and that would be obvious cause grease would be slung all up in your wheel. However it is more likely the ca's so make sure they did everone of them, cause I have had this same problem twice now, same sounds and everything before I did them ALL. All it takes is one of those bushings to be less than perfect and it'll do that.
Ya i checked out the CA's and they are done. I emailed Raxles and checked out their site, it sounds like it is the CV. I got a price for 175/ side. They emailed me back within 10 minutes! Everything that they mentioned in their site is happening with my car.
Anyone have any idea as to how hard the install would be? I don't feel like bringing my car back to the shop and have it take a week to get it back.
Thanks audiops!
Anyone have any idea as to how hard the install would be? I don't feel like bringing my car back to the shop and have it take a week to get it back.
Thanks audiops!
Could be the sleeve between the bearing housing and the lower control arm. (big bummer) I hope that isn't it. also it could be motor mounts. Your CV joint shouldn't clunk when you are slowing down and the shop would have seen if the boot were torn or wearing when they did the CA's. At least it would be in their best intrest to tell you. That is a good money making job.
yeah there is a write up at a audidiy.com for changing the cv joint you can get the parts for like 30 dollars for the boot and stuff and change it in a day or maybe 2 tops if you really take your time.
wait, are you changing just the joint right? Here is what you do.
-While on the ground undo the axle bolt, its a mother....
-Take off the strut, and that includes the top controls arms popping out of their two holes with a chisel.
-Then pop out the tie rod end.
-At this point it should be swinging very freely.
-Go to the tranny, undo those six that attach it there, but onlythread out a little. Tap the surface with a hammer so the gasket come loose without ripping it then undo all the way. Then with turning and pulling the shaft will come out by the rotor.
-Its pretty much that simple.
-Then if you have a press at your house press of the end after you cut the boot off and take off the clamps.
-Or you can cheat and put the old axle bolt in and use your air gun to drive the joint off.
-To put on use a rubber dead blow to hammer it on, pressing is really worthless here. Just make sure you feel it go down over that snap ring.
If I forgot anything it shouldn't be too out of the obvious to figure out what to do.
I believe the torques are 140 for the axle bolt, 30's for the top control arms and tie rod end, and either 30 or 59 for the tranny ones.
-While on the ground undo the axle bolt, its a mother....
-Take off the strut, and that includes the top controls arms popping out of their two holes with a chisel.
-Then pop out the tie rod end.
-At this point it should be swinging very freely.
-Go to the tranny, undo those six that attach it there, but onlythread out a little. Tap the surface with a hammer so the gasket come loose without ripping it then undo all the way. Then with turning and pulling the shaft will come out by the rotor.
-Its pretty much that simple.
-Then if you have a press at your house press of the end after you cut the boot off and take off the clamps.
-Or you can cheat and put the old axle bolt in and use your air gun to drive the joint off.
-To put on use a rubber dead blow to hammer it on, pressing is really worthless here. Just make sure you feel it go down over that snap ring.
If I forgot anything it shouldn't be too out of the obvious to figure out what to do.
I believe the torques are 140 for the axle bolt, 30's for the top control arms and tie rod end, and either 30 or 59 for the tranny ones.
haah thanks buddy^^
I ordered a front right axle assembly from Purems for $100. I will have someone that has tools to help me out
I dont have a house yet with tools and a garage, im just a kid! gimme a few years.
I ordered a front right axle assembly from Purems for $100. I will have someone that has tools to help me out

I dont have a house yet with tools and a garage, im just a kid! gimme a few years.
i was gunna say if you needed a new cv go to http://www.blauparts.com/proddetail....D&cat=1540they got the good stuff for good prices


