So here is the deal,
I got a phone call at 2 this morning from the wife who drove the car to work. When she got out she drove the car approx. 3 miles and stopped at a red light and put the car in nuetral. When the light turned green, she went to shift into fisrt, will not go into any gears. So I arrive and see whats going on. The car starts no problem. Clutch feels good, but when you try to put it into gear it will not go, the shifter does not want to move. I can slightly feel the pocket for all the gears, but it will not slide on in to gear. I try pretty damn hard to shove it into gear, I can hear the RPMS go down as if you where trying to put it in gear without engaging the clutch. So call a tow truck, get it hauled back to the house. I get back, get the car off the truck and park it. When i get into the car i try to shift into gear. It goes into all gears except reverse and 2nd with the motor off. Not when the engine is on. Wierd. I pull out about 5 feet and shift out from 2nd, its pretty hard to get out of gear and shtill will not go into other gears. There was no smell or unusuall noises when the wifey was driving. The clutch seems to be fine when i started off in 2nd. So does anybody have a clue whats going on or have had a similiar problem? In my opinion I think it might be linkage, but im no mechanic. whats would be a sign that the tranny is blown? Any input would be great. Thanks.

 

sounds like your shift collar for first and second is going out, the way you are talking in the end of the post. In the first part of the post kind of sounds like your wife over heated the clutch and it would not disengage fromthe flywheel fully, but this is jsut my guess as I was not there to see the car. The shift collar is prone to failure so JHM made some new better ones in there kit, that runs 1200 but and replaces the whole tranny hahah. Maybe you could call and ask jsut for the first and second gear collar, also reverse is tied into first gear as you ahve to go past it to trip it. Hope this helps at all.
cheers,
paul

 

What does the JHM kit come with for $1200?

 

So I went home on my lunch break today hoping something would feel better in the gear box. Still the same. I started the car and tried to get it in reverse. I hear a grinding noise when I poistion the shifter at a certian angle trying to get it in reverse? It still will not shift into any gear while running. If the flywheel is not still disengaged from the clutch what the best way to to try to get it to disengage? Anybody have a clue on how how much this wil cost to get repaired?
Thanks

 

comes with all this,
Transmission Rebuild Video on DVD (1 hour 47 minutes in length) - OEM synchronizer rings (6) w updated 1-2 synchronizers included - OEM synchronizer springs (6) - OEM input shaft seal - OEM output shaft seal - OEM front output shaft seals (2) - OEM selector shaft seal. Also a new OEM updated 1-2 shift collar ($618 retail for this part alone) This is the part that causes 1st and/or 2nd gear to lock up when it fails.

Now if you can pull your tranny maybe your clutch master cylinder went out, they tend to go in high mile cars when every they really want, like turbos. If you cant do that ur self take it so a local shop and ask them to look at it. or quote you what it would cost to replace the master cylinder ( you can also get that part from JHM). Tranny work is crazy high so just ask around for the best price. if you are luck and it is jsut the cylinder it will not be that bad.

 

Hopefully it is the that...I have access to a full garage with all the tools. One thing I do not understand is that the gear shift like normal except into reverse when not running. When i start the car it will not shift. I started the car in 2nd and drove about 10 feet in the driveway. The clutch feels the same and pressure is normal. one thing I did notice a couple days ago is that when you put the clutch completely to the floor is feels spongy just at the floor. I was reading on another forum that someone had the same problem and changed the gearbox fluid and it fixed the issue?
Thanks

 

yeah, try that first cause that is by far the cheapest, also kind of sounds like your master cylinder is on the frits or your slave cylinder lol , I would jsut call up vast and ask or send a email to them then buy fluid off them or the part you need so they know you and will help later on, plus it is always time for new part.

 

So I talked a few Audi dealers in the area and spoke with the service dept. Everyone said it is the pressure plate or the disc. So now im going to replace the clutch. I had a couple quotes of around 1400-2000 for a clutch replacement. Sound about right? I know tranny shops are crazy, but I do not know a thing about replacing a clutch. Are there any DIY clutch write ups anywhere?
Thanks

 

yeah, vast has them i think on there site, but i know if you order it from them, you will get all the tech you need to DIY. there stage 3 is **** takes EVRYTHING, and feels like stock cause it uses the rs4 pressure plate.

 

Just an FYI, you have to remove the tranny to replace the clutch. This is where most of the **** work is involved. If you are planning on removing the tranny yourself, you might as well do the clutch while you have the tranny out, as well as take the tranny to a shop and have them replace the 1-2 shift collar.

I think the dealer you spoke with is on crack, if your pressure plate/disc was going bad, you would likely see this problem with all gears in the tranny, not just the notorious R, 1, 2 gears. Usually, issues with 1st and 2nd gear can almost always link back to synchros in the B5.

If you have access to a full shop, buy your friend a 12 pack and have him help you remove the tranny. It will be WAY nicer removing the tranny if you have a lift. Doing a tranny removal on jackstands sucks. Trust me. I did it in another car of mine and it blows.