I went to do the rear wheel bearing on my car today (99 2.8qm), and all was well and good until it was time to remove the ABS sensor. I was using a tech DIY from AudiWorld that showed the sensor being held in place by a 4mm bolt, but on my car there isn't one - it just pulls out. However, it almost required the will of God to get it out, and removing it took up 2 hours and in the process, destroyed the sensor. It appears that it presses straight in, into a sleeve of some sort, but damn if it's not impossible to get out - is there some sort of locking mechanism or a trick to removing this sensor? It would rotate but it would NOT pull out until I gave up hope of saving the sensor and clamped vise-grips around it and beat it with a BFH (it honestly took that much just to separate it from the housing). Any tips on this for the next time I have to remove one? I'd prefer not to have to budget for a sensor anytime I have to pop one out for some reason.

Second question is, when removing the control arm nut in this picture (the one that's backed almost off the rod):



WTF do you do when the nut is seized on the threaded rod, and both of them are turning? I didn't want to clamp down on the threads for fear of ruining them. The problem is, rotating both the nut and the threaded rod, they wouldn't loosen - they just spun and spun without coming out or going in farther. As it was getting late, we decided to just put it back together and pack it in for the day, in the hopes that I could get a couple tips on here for the next go-round. In the meantime, I have to order an ABS sensor (anyone have a good one for sale?), and then try this again.

TIA for any feedback on this.

 

yup, the ball joint is spinning w/ the nut. I hate when that happens. gotta get it off usingneedle nose vice grips on the threads, and either fix up the threads with a die,or geta new one. same thing happens to me all the time with ball joints, and it's my worst enemy on suspension work.

 

What we used to do is take a clamp and clamp from the back of the ball joint to the face of the arm. Its a tapered fit in there and pulling it back in tight will usually lock it in place from spining again. As for the ABS sensor mine fit in a hole that had a kind of spring steel clip inside it. I took ahold with channel locks and turned it back and forth while pulling it out. It wasn't a picnic but it did come out without hurting it and before inserting it I cleaned everything up and lubed it and taped it back in with a small ball pein and a block of wood.

Good Luck...

 

haha, that's funny cuz there were 3 of us there any none of us thought of the idea of the ball joint spinning. also another question jeremy may have forgotten is, where is the harness for that ABS sensor? there's like a part on the lower control arm that has metal part that can be taken off and it looks like it might be big enough for a harness but then again doesn't. i really doubt the harness is inside the car because the line goes inside the car from under the rear seats and the gromet is only big enough for the line. and that pic up there isn't his car.

 

Bogie and Redrum1, thanks very much for the advice. Once I get a new ABS sensor, your ideas will be tried. I swear we were after that ABS sensor for two f*cking hours today. Hiwords, as always, glad you could make it over today. I guess my car will be the guinea pig for finding the right method, so when we do yours it'll be a snap

 

Well its going to be warm here in Western Pa on Wednesday so I got just about the same job waiting for me. Left rear wheel bearing and rebuilt axle to install. I just hope that sensor isn't rusted in too bad. But one way or another I know I'll get it. If memory serves me correctly the rear ABS sensors do plug in under the back seat if this helps.

Good Luck...

 

As far as the ball joint rotating: the end of it might have an allen in it. Clean it out well and tap an allen wrench in it. You're stuck using a box or open end wrench on it, but it's better than screwing it up with vise grips. As redrum1 said, you can squeeze it back together with a pair of large channel locks to get the taper to bite again. Handy to have a second set of hands for that technique.

 

I'm definitely going to try clamping them together, although if that's the cause, then it's barely separated - you couldn't even see a gap between them. Still that may be all it takes and I'm going to try it. I didn't see any type of allen on the back side, unles the black cap on the joint is removable and it's under there.

Oh, and to add to the problems, I found that the bottom coil on that corner of the car snapped about 4" from the end, right against the spring perch. Looks like I'll be shopping for lowering components too (that's not exactly all bad lol, but it IS that much more money to have to spend). We'll get it for sure - it's just going to require some beer and more swearing I think, plus the tips you guys have provided, which I very much appreciate.

 

The allen would be in the end of the "shaft". They don't always have them, but when they do it's a Godsend. Since I put those VMaxx c/o on my car I have the stock stuff laying under my workbench. If you need a spring to keep it up and running, you're welcome to it.

 

Thanks Jerry - I didn't even think to check the end of the threaded shaft. Once I get a new ABS sensor, I'm going to go back at this. With the spring, if I don't find a good deal on aftermarket springs, I may well go for that. I figure that as long as they have to be replaced, I might as well go for H&R Luckily the break is right on the seated part of the spring, on the perch, where it's a minimal problem, versus having a break somewhere farther up the coil.

Awhile ago too, you mentioned the HID setup - when are you thinking that might be available, any ideas? I'm not in a rush but I'm definitely interested ever since one of my bulbs blew out. I'd take that off your hands, get replacement bulbs for my set, and put them in the fogs.