1999 A6 2.8L 30V - not starting after head work
#1
07-24-2012, 11:22 AM
1999 A6 2.8L 30V - not starting after head work
No real surprise. 1999 A6 2.8 30V. Changed cam seals, plugs, chain tensioner, crank ventialtion, etc.
After timing done and checked, hand cranked a few times. Check timing marks again.
With belts and valve covers back on, cranked a few revolution without plugs. Installed plugs and connected
First crank, no go. Just a few fires, but not even close. Several more tries. Nothing.
Starting with the simple:
a) can I mix up the valve covers? Cyl 4-5-6 are on driver side, including oil cap. Correct?
b) checked the ignition cables several times (connections engraved on front engine plate were ignition module is). Connected to number engraved on valve cover.
c) Installed new plugs (single platinum NGK). Did not gap. Gap at 0.035 inch
d) 2 plugs on intake box. One to MAF, one to passenger side 'thing' (assume some air recirc or so). 1x 3 wire (MAF), 1x 2 wire. Can't mix up.
e) Spaghetti nest on top of throttle body. There were color dabs, but you never know: green on the left 'box', blue on the right 'box', 1 black visible, 1 more underneath.
Click this bar to view the full image.
f) Cam shaft position sensor: both the same? I checked the part number on the sensor, seemed to be the same. Passenger side front (connector through hole in cover towards center of engine), driver side rear, connector toward throttle body. Both grey plugs.
g) Vac lines seem to be connected
h) I had the throttle body plastic inlet pipe removed (to get to the corrugated hose underneath and to clean). Any connector down there or on the pipe itself?
i) I did the timing with crank lock pin (TDC) and cam bar. Turned engine manually several times, cam marks perfect and cam lock on and sprockets torqued down.
j) connectors (grey) to chain tensioner (rear on passenger; front on driver side).
What sensors, plugs, connectors, etc. can cause 'no fire.
After timing done and checked, hand cranked a few times. Check timing marks again.
With belts and valve covers back on, cranked a few revolution without plugs. Installed plugs and connected
First crank, no go. Just a few fires, but not even close. Several more tries. Nothing.
Starting with the simple:
a) can I mix up the valve covers? Cyl 4-5-6 are on driver side, including oil cap. Correct?
b) checked the ignition cables several times (connections engraved on front engine plate were ignition module is). Connected to number engraved on valve cover.
c) Installed new plugs (single platinum NGK). Did not gap. Gap at 0.035 inch
d) 2 plugs on intake box. One to MAF, one to passenger side 'thing' (assume some air recirc or so). 1x 3 wire (MAF), 1x 2 wire. Can't mix up.
e) Spaghetti nest on top of throttle body. There were color dabs, but you never know: green on the left 'box', blue on the right 'box', 1 black visible, 1 more underneath.
Click this bar to view the full image.
f) Cam shaft position sensor: both the same? I checked the part number on the sensor, seemed to be the same. Passenger side front (connector through hole in cover towards center of engine), driver side rear, connector toward throttle body. Both grey plugs.
g) Vac lines seem to be connected
h) I had the throttle body plastic inlet pipe removed (to get to the corrugated hose underneath and to clean). Any connector down there or on the pipe itself?
i) I did the timing with crank lock pin (TDC) and cam bar. Turned engine manually several times, cam marks perfect and cam lock on and sprockets torqued down.
j) connectors (grey) to chain tensioner (rear on passenger; front on driver side).
What sensors, plugs, connectors, etc. can cause 'no fire.
#2
07-24-2012, 03:16 PM
No fuel?
More checking (no codes when cranking):
- have spark
- took fuel line (17+14 wrench size screw fitting on passenger side fuel rail) apart, ignition on: no fuel
- took fuel pressure regulator out, ignition on: no fuel
Shouldn't the fuel pump prime and build pressure with ignition on?
If so: I don't have fuel. What is the fuel pump diagram showing for fuel (fuses, swithes (does the Audi have mercury switch to cut out fuel pump in case of roll over? in some cars, those need to or can be reset). Where is the stuff in the fuel pump circuit located?
- have spark
- took fuel line (17+14 wrench size screw fitting on passenger side fuel rail) apart, ignition on: no fuel
- took fuel pressure regulator out, ignition on: no fuel
Shouldn't the fuel pump prime and build pressure with ignition on?
If so: I don't have fuel. What is the fuel pump diagram showing for fuel (fuses, swithes (does the Audi have mercury switch to cut out fuel pump in case of roll over? in some cars, those need to or can be reset). Where is the stuff in the fuel pump circuit located?
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