Does the audi A3 have a genuine limited slip differential, electronic limited slip, or nothing? I read through the instruction manual, but tapping the ESP button doesn't seem to flash any indication of the electronic diff. being on or off. Is there a standard, real locking diff that can be added to this car?

Thanks

 

I was told that it is a true limited slip diff. I'm also wondering exactly how the ESP works as well. It helps with the traction control, so it must change the amount of torque applied to each front tire, but I'm not sure how mechanically/electronically it is controlled.

Chef

 

From what i gather from the instruction book (and I could most certainly be wrong here), the A3 has ASP, which is anti-skid protection, if I remember correctly, which works in concert with ESP. ASP acts as a a limited-slip by applying the brakes to whatever wheel is slipping, to correct the issue. Similarly, ESP alternates the brakes to compensate for certain risky conditions, such as high speed braking around turns. From what the manual said, you tap the ESP button to turn off ASP, and hold it for three seconds to turn of ESP. I tried messing with it for a bit and really couldn't figure out if I was doing it right...I'm going to have to consult the manual again...Any input?

 

for my A3, if the ESP is off, it's off, but if you try to floor it on first gear, the ESP kicks in automatically and it automatically reduces your torque until it stops skidding, as in it has total control over your gas pedal


BUT

ever since i got my car chipped, i can floor it as much as i want to, it skids a little (depending on what rpm you're on), but the ESP DOESN'T kick in automatically at all, but the ESP light DO flash on your dashboard, but still, the ESP doesn't kick in.

just try it, if you don't have your A3 chipped, manually turn off your ESP, rev your car to 4000 rpms, kick it in 1st gear, floor your gas, and i tell as a fact, your ESP will kick in automatically, you'll see and feel your rpms go down until your wheels stop skidding, EVEN IF YOUR GAS PEDAL IS PRESSED ALL THE WAY DOWN.

 

Hey, I know there are a lot of good chip companies out there (revo, etc). Are these chips in line with the factory warranty? Do they stress the engine? How is everyday driveability?

 

I've had different chips in other cars and each vary a little. First off, it will VOID your warranty, that is, if they know it's there. The point is to switch it back to stock prior to service. The chip will increase boost pressure from the turbo, increase fueling, and change timing in our cars. This will definitely add more stress to the engine and turbo, but what is too much? The internals of our motors are set-up to handle a lot more than is currently asked, but my ultimate question is how much boost can the turbo handle and for what duration? I personally wouldn't feel comfortable getting more than 15psi max boost from our little turbos. I'm still searching for more information on our turbo's specifications. Definitely worth investing in a boost gauge if you plan on doing any mods. I understand driveability is very good with the APR and Revo chips, not sure about the others, but T2T did complain about too much torque under wet conditions. Might be worth switching to stock during rain/snow conditions as needed. I still plan on chipping my car but I'm waiting a little longer trying to get more information.

Good luck,

Chef

 

APR chips have the option of having a few programs set up on your ECU. the one i got has two programs, Stock, and the performance program from APR, i also got the locking program on it so when i take it into the dealer, i'll just put it in the stock program, set the lock on it and don't worry about it. you have to have the password to unlock these programs. the dealer is also smart also, they'll unplug your battery and reattach it hoping to find a chip on it, but the APR chip will just default into the stock mode.

as for stressing the engine, unless you're flooring your gas pedal everyday, i don't think it should stress the engine, just try to keep it under 3000 rpms and you're ok, as for fuel, i'm actually saving fuel after the chip, i'm getting an extra mile/gallon since the chip. getting roughly 330 miles for a full tank and i don't use the freeway much.

 

just curious, but won't the dealer scan system be able to detect what chip is being used for engine control? Even if the after market product is set in "stock" mode?

Also the limited slip/traction control seems far superior to what GM uses in their mid line cars. Those systems, when they sense a wheel spinning, simply reduce power (no braking to spinning wheel is done). The result is the car eventually has no power and goes nowhere.

 

dealers can't detect the apr chip if you have a locking code set into the ecu. prior to 2006, if you want to get your car "chipped", you have to take the chip out of the car and replace it, but with the 06's, you don't take the chip out, you just connect a wire from your laptop straight into your car and the computer will reprogram the ecu. it's called direct port. so as far the dealer detecting a chip, it's impossible because the chip is still there, the stock program is under the factory program while the tuned program is under apr.