what should i do first
#2
RE: what should i do first
For the best bang for the buck, the ECU program will be best. APR will give you a >50hp gain above stock. A full exhaust will be a nice compliment too. I do not know how much a cold air intake will actually gain in performance by itself, but it will be nice in combo with the exhaust and ecu program.
If youwere going to have a Custom ecu tune, then I would do the tune last because it can be tuned specifically for the mods you have on your car.
If money is an issue, I would start with the Vendor ECU flashes (ie.. APR, Revo) as it will provide the biggest gains initially.
In my opinion, I would Not mix and match different companies here. If you are putting on an APR exhaust, you will probably be better off with the APR ECU and Carbonio CAI. APR designed everything to work very nicely together.
http://www.corelineracing.com
If youwere going to have a Custom ecu tune, then I would do the tune last because it can be tuned specifically for the mods you have on your car.
If money is an issue, I would start with the Vendor ECU flashes (ie.. APR, Revo) as it will provide the biggest gains initially.
In my opinion, I would Not mix and match different companies here. If you are putting on an APR exhaust, you will probably be better off with the APR ECU and Carbonio CAI. APR designed everything to work very nicely together.
http://www.corelineracing.com
#3
RE: what should i do first
Well here's my $.02. Get the chip first and then the exhaust and CAI. REVO chip is a certain price and the stage II is only $50 more, whether you get the stage II right off the bat or not. My suggestion is to get the chip, then the CAI and/or exhaust, then take it back to have the stage II upgrade and have the car logged again for the timing, fuel to air mixture. You'll be impressed with just the chip, then the additions are just awesome! Personally, I have mixed REVO with the APR DP and GReddy exhaust, and K&N CAI. As long as your mixtures and timing are correct then there is nothing to worry about. Personally, I think my car is smoking fast with ZERO issues. I also like the sound of my exhaust over the APR TB anyway.
Have fun.
Cheers!
Have fun.
Cheers!
#6
RE: what should i do first
Void your entire warranty? No. But if you have whatever engine issues they deem caused by the new programming, they could refuse to fix it under warranty clause.
And it's a BIG resounding YES on the HP and torque gains.
And it's a BIG resounding YES on the HP and torque gains.
#7
RE: what should i do first
APR's chip has a stock mode you can switch it into using your cruise control switch, and they supposedly can't tell it was chipped. just make sure you put it in stock mode before you take it into the dealer.
this is directly off APR's website:
"
All APR chip upgrades use encryption, which serve several purposes. First, it keeps prying eyes out of our software and prevents lesser companies from copying the chip and degrading the product. Secondly, the encryption prevents the dealer from flash programming the ECU. Also, all APR software is undetectable to a dealers VAG diagnostic tool.
All APR chip software comes with lifetime free updates. There is also a lifetime warranty against defects in the software. All chip upgrades have a 30-day Money Back Guarantee.
"
http://www.corelineracing.com
this is directly off APR's website:
"
All APR chip upgrades use encryption, which serve several purposes. First, it keeps prying eyes out of our software and prevents lesser companies from copying the chip and degrading the product. Secondly, the encryption prevents the dealer from flash programming the ECU. Also, all APR software is undetectable to a dealers VAG diagnostic tool.
All APR chip software comes with lifetime free updates. There is also a lifetime warranty against defects in the software. All chip upgrades have a 30-day Money Back Guarantee.
"
http://www.corelineracing.com
#8
RE: what should i do first
So I am also very tempted to do the APR chip upgrade...how easy is it to switch between modes? What is the impact on MPG? When I supercharged my Tacoma there was a noticeable drop in MPG, but of course the look on the face of the guy driving the Ford Lightning was priceless .
Also...quick question...I have noticed a significant amount of sooty residue on my tailpipe. I seem to recall that my Volvo V70 GLT had the same problem. I have to admit that it has been a bit hard to follow the "break-in" recommendations to the letter...and I was a little concerned that I had overdonethe exhiliration and burnt something up inside. Any ideas, or is this normal?
Also...quick question...I have noticed a significant amount of sooty residue on my tailpipe. I seem to recall that my Volvo V70 GLT had the same problem. I have to admit that it has been a bit hard to follow the "break-in" recommendations to the letter...and I was a little concerned that I had overdonethe exhiliration and burnt something up inside. Any ideas, or is this normal?
#9
RE: what should i do first
I've always had some sooty residue in the tailpipe. Before and after chipping. I think that is common and normal.
Changing to/from stock mode is fairly easy and straightforward with APR, REVO, and GIAC software as long as you purchase the additional programs or switching device. My MPG dropped a little with the Chip, but I'm always heavy on the throttle. If you can keep out of the power most of the time, then you MPG should stay about the same. I still get 21-22mpg in city driving, so it's not too drastic.
Cheers!
Changing to/from stock mode is fairly easy and straightforward with APR, REVO, and GIAC software as long as you purchase the additional programs or switching device. My MPG dropped a little with the Chip, but I'm always heavy on the throttle. If you can keep out of the power most of the time, then you MPG should stay about the same. I still get 21-22mpg in city driving, so it's not too drastic.
Cheers!
#10
RE: what should i do first
ORIGINAL: Chef
If you can keep out of the power most of the time, then you MPG should stay about the same. I still get 21-22mpg in city driving, so it's not too drastic.
If you can keep out of the power most of the time, then you MPG should stay about the same. I still get 21-22mpg in city driving, so it's not too drastic.