Ordered the front O2 sensor, should be here by Friday. OEM Bosch. Might be going camping this weekend so I'll probably have to wait tillSunday eveningto hook it up though. Will vag-com it once it heats up and check the readiness code and block 032. Oh and also, I think I forgot to mention, it's super slow to respond when I hit the gas while driving. Takes a good second or two before the car kicks in, definitely not good for pulling out onto a busy street. It's much more noticably slower than it was before the turbo blew. I'll see how it runs when I get the O2 sensor put in, but I'm also suspecting a boost leak. Not sure exactly where to check. I don't have a pressure gauge or boost gauge, although I eventually want to get a boost gauge, just low on money right now. Does vag-com monitor boost at all? Any advice on that?

 

Ok, got the O2 sensor yesterday and got it all hooked up today. Had to get an oxygen sensor socket to get the damn thing out. Anyways, I started the car after everything was put back together and same exact problems still. Waited for it to heat up, checked the readiness code in vag-com and it said
Oxygen Sensor Heated (Pass)
Oxygen Sensor (Failed or Incomplete)
Also catalytic converter and emissions were Fails. Checked the fault codes, still getting Random/Multiple Cylinder misfire code, along with misfire codes on cyls 1,2,3,4. Checked block 032 and still says 0% readings. Any ideas why I wouldn't get a block 032 reading after installing a brandnew O2 sensor and letting it heat up?

 

THe readiness codes can take up to 100mi to kick in.

You should do the log on 32 when you are driving.

For the misfires, clean out your MAF, or just disconnect it, & see if it runs better. If that doesn't work, put in a new CTS.

 

Well, I've already tried running with the MAF disconnected and it runs exactly the same, misfires while idling. Also pulled it out and sprayed off the MAF sensor with some MAF cleaner spray but it runs the same too. So far the only thing that's helped it run a bit smoother was cleaning out the throttle body. At least coolant temp sensorsare pretty cheap right? Is that also known as the Water Temperature Sender? Here's what I'm looking at:
http://replacement.autopartswarehous...or&dp=true
I'm looking at the Behr (OEM) one. 23 bucks, is that the right part?
Edit: Found one on ECS tuning for same price with O-ring. Looks like there's a blue and a green type, so I'll have to check and see what I have tonight.
http://www.ecstuning.com/stage/edpd/...mp;engine=1.8T

 

I totally feel your pain and frustration. I've been chasing down the cause of my problem with CEL flashingduring WOT. Left no code and I've tried cleaning the MAF, cleaning the throttle body and doing a TBA, replace all 4 plugs with NGK, change the coils, I know its not the CTS or the O2 sensor sense those have been replace 6 month ago, and I've tried checking for bad hoses. I'm now about to swap the N75 valve since that is the last thing on my list of probable cause. I've spent a lot of time + money and I hope to see a light at the end of a tunnel. Keep up the hard work and hopefully in the end, it will pay off and the rewards will be well worth it.

This is a great thread and I'm glad to seeso many have aide in the effort. Makes me glad to know that you can find support here. It would be nice to have certify tech give there opinions and thoughts.

 

My car used to idle rough and lose power,it gave misfire on cyl 2so I replacedthe #2 fuel injectorand been great ever since. You may want to swap#2 and#3 fuel injector and rerun vagcaom to see if it will the show misfire on cyl 3. Just and idea, and it wont cost you anything.

Please let us know what it was when you get it fixed.

 

Well, decided to order a CTS from ECS Tuning. I'll just have to wait (and keep taking the bus and my biketo work haha) until it gets here so I can plug it in. I checked behind the engine first, and I have the blue sensor so I ordered another blue one. I drove it to work today but traffic is so bad, I end up sitting still while the car's misfiring the whole time. Can't be good for the cat. I dunno if swapping the fuel injectors will help me solve my problem, because I'm getting misfire codes for all 4 cylinders. I still want to check for a vac leak though, but I'm a total noob, there are a lot of hoses to check. If I rev the engine while in park, and quickly let off the gas, it takes a while for the rpms to go back down to around 900. Seems to go down slower than it used to. Is that a symptom of avac leak? I found a test to find boost leaks here:
http://www.a4mods.com/index.php?page...boostleak.html
Looks pretty simple, but boost leaks and vac leaks are different right? I figured I might have a vac leak since I have rough idle and misfiring, and it sounds like boost leaks affect the car's power while driving. Although my car is slow to respond when I hit the gas too. Well, maybe I can try the boost leak test soon. Let me know if it looks like a good procedure, and if there's any other simple tests I could do to look for vac leaks.

 

Still waiting for my coolant temp sensor, should get it this week. Tried the air pressure test, couldn't hear any audible leaks, but did hear a faint bit of gurgling inside or under the turbo. It was kinda dark, and my car's parked on grass so I couldn't see any leaks. Would that be oil?

Also, after driving my car to work a couple times I finally got a reading for block 032 in vag-com. Here's what I got:
First field (idle): -4.7%
Second field (part ld): 3.9%
According to the fuel-trim article on vag-com's site (http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/cars/fuel-trim.html), "Specifications for normal operation are usually somewhere near +/- 10%." Also according to the 1.8t troubleshooting guide (http://www.elitedubs.com/index.php?topic=988):"To check for a VAC leak, log block 032 and check the idle fuel trims. If it’s more than +2% you probably have a VAC leak somewhere." My idle fuel trim is -4.7%, soo is it most likely that I don't have a vac leak or a boost leak?

Runnin' out of ideas here. Checked blocks 015 and 016 (misfire counters) again and noticed cyl 4 seems to be misfiring the most (a lot more than the other cyls) and cyl 3 seems to be missing the least, which would be why the misfire codes always pop up as cyls 4, 2, 1, then 3 last. So tomorrow I'll try switching coil packs on 4 and 3 and see if 3 becomes the high misfire-er and 4 the low. If the high misfirer moves to 3, I'll pick up a new coilpack to replace it. If it doesn't, I'll try swappingthe fuel injectors, and/or spark plugs. Thanks again for the help.

 

Wait till you replace the CTS, it might be the problem.

If not, you might want to pull all 4 injectors, clean the tips, & put them back in, but swap the locations, & see where the main misfire goes.

 

After re-reading your post, I see that you still have not replaced any coilpacks.

At this point, I would get a set of 4 new ones, and put them in there. Also, I didn't see you mention checking out the plugs again, seeing if they look ok, and closely inspect them all for cracks anywhere.
Good Luck!