Can I Turbo an A4 2.8? to be 2.8t?
I bet your an amsoil dealer too,
A LOT of the sludge issue, especially with the turbo lines is people improperly let the engine cool down for a few minutes after running it hard.
A LOT of the sludge issue, especially with the turbo lines is people improperly let the engine cool down for a few minutes after running it hard.
Both have points. Gotta let the oil cirulate while it cools down some after a hard run synthetic or not. And I dont think he sells amsoil because he spelled it with a "z", although amsoil is the best imo. They are the original fully synthetic oil maker... That says a lot for their R&D which says a lot for the overall quality, but im sure they are all about the same as long as you get the vw spec.. I run only full synthetic, anyone that doesnt with a 1.8t is asking for sludge. Even with a NA engine Id only run synthetic.. NA's get sludge too. But back on topic... It would be a waste of time, money and resources to turn a 2.8NA into a 2.8t unless you are just looking for an odd project and have money to blow just to say you did it and that it can done.
found it..... https://www.audiforums.com/m_372217/tm.htm
and as he stated finding somehow to tune it would be the hardest part. It's a very novel concept, and really could be done with proper budgeting for under $3500. You'd definately have to be mechanically Inclined, and have knowledge of welding, and pipe benders available. After seeing this post, and others on remote mount systems, it does make sense. Practicallity of driving in snow, and Extremely wet weather might make a difference, but credit definately needs to be given to the OP of the link I posted. If I had $2500 I'd buy it from him to try out. I'd be willing to bet if someone really really wanted to (and had the mechanical ability) could do this for $2000 for the turbo parts (used obviously) and tuning, It'd be hard with a lot of downtime, but well worth it in the end.
However if you're pockets are deep, you could try to conventionally turbo yours, waste of time and money IMO. I'd just spend the difference and buy an S4. The sky is the limit, and if you dream it up, and RESEARCH, anything is possible. Assuming you have the dedication to do what you want to do. Me, I'm a broke Mo'Fo' so I'd probably try rigging up something like in the link, however, I'd rather just sell my 2.8 and buy a 1.8 and dump the money into it. Hope this helps.
and as he stated finding somehow to tune it would be the hardest part. It's a very novel concept, and really could be done with proper budgeting for under $3500. You'd definately have to be mechanically Inclined, and have knowledge of welding, and pipe benders available. After seeing this post, and others on remote mount systems, it does make sense. Practicallity of driving in snow, and Extremely wet weather might make a difference, but credit definately needs to be given to the OP of the link I posted. If I had $2500 I'd buy it from him to try out. I'd be willing to bet if someone really really wanted to (and had the mechanical ability) could do this for $2000 for the turbo parts (used obviously) and tuning, It'd be hard with a lot of downtime, but well worth it in the end.
However if you're pockets are deep, you could try to conventionally turbo yours, waste of time and money IMO. I'd just spend the difference and buy an S4. The sky is the limit, and if you dream it up, and RESEARCH, anything is possible. Assuming you have the dedication to do what you want to do. Me, I'm a broke Mo'Fo' so I'd probably try rigging up something like in the link, however, I'd rather just sell my 2.8 and buy a 1.8 and dump the money into it. Hope this helps.
ORIGINAL: wood_e
I bet your an amsoil dealer too,
A LOT of the sludge issue, especially with the turbo lines is people improperly let the engine cool down for a few minutes after running it hard.
I bet your an amsoil dealer too,
A LOT of the sludge issue, especially with the turbo lines is people improperly let the engine cool down for a few minutes after running it hard.
If you don't want to run it in yours, fine.
Thanks for a lively discussion - I hope you're not taking this personally!
You must let the oil circulate as it cool because the bearings in turbos expand and contract, not allowing the bearing to cool will cause the bearings to lock up or can make the turbo seals leak because the turbo houseing and seal cool faster than the bearings and the expanded bearing puts too much pressure on the oil seals in the turbo. Sludge happens from carbon buildup (not changeing oil when it has begun to break down). Synthetic oil needs to be used because of it's ability to not thicken up when cold allowing for good oil flow to the turbo at startup even in cold conditions so as to not allow for oil starvation to the turbo bearings.
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