Considering A4 purchase (update...again)
quote:
ORIGINAL: bentframe
make sure the suspension is good....worn control arms will squeak, tie rod ends will clunk when you hit bumps, cv joints will click during low speed turns (if you're on the gas), open up the oil cap to look for signs of oil sludge (this is especially important with the 1.8Ts)...do the same for the power steering fluid, as well as the coolant. sometimes people top them off or refill them with regular fluids and that can cause big problems including sludge issues....test the cruise control, the switches are known to fail (typically it's an easy fix, a good way to knock a few bucks off the price ). make sure the sunroof is fully functional as well as windows (check each door's switch individually)..listen on the freeway for a humming/grinding sound for failing wheel bearings..oh, and leave the radio OFF during the test drive, test the speakers before or after driving....also consider the mileage on the timing belt, they need to be done every 60-90k miles....search the forums, there are TONS of threads on all this stuff...
ORIGINAL: bentframe
make sure the suspension is good....worn control arms will squeak, tie rod ends will clunk when you hit bumps, cv joints will click during low speed turns (if you're on the gas), open up the oil cap to look for signs of oil sludge (this is especially important with the 1.8Ts)...do the same for the power steering fluid, as well as the coolant. sometimes people top them off or refill them with regular fluids and that can cause big problems including sludge issues....test the cruise control, the switches are known to fail (typically it's an easy fix, a good way to knock a few bucks off the price ). make sure the sunroof is fully functional as well as windows (check each door's switch individually)..listen on the freeway for a humming/grinding sound for failing wheel bearings..oh, and leave the radio OFF during the test drive, test the speakers before or after driving....also consider the mileage on the timing belt, they need to be done every 60-90k miles....search the forums, there are TONS of threads on all this stuff...
I finally got a closer look ( and drive) of the car this weekend.
Flaws:
front bumper cover has had a very slight bump, small nick and some cracked paint; rear tires are cupped badly, but still have lots of tread; exhaust has been "repaired" and the repair has failed (hanger is broken off....no holes though); some light scratches on the rear bumper cover; battery is the orginal (going on six years old and it cranks slow); there is a 'service insp' indicator in the instrument cluster that goes out after its been running a few minutes; there are a few small nicks in the wheels. One headlight is mis-aligned- severly.
Driving impressions:
The car drove great (other than the noise from the rear tires). Still feels like it has lots of power and it is a very smooth ride. No clunks or rattles. Goes striaght down the road and the clutch feels good too. Everything works (windows, locks, radio, heat, fog lights -rear fog lights?- heated seats, sun/moon roof,...etc) and the interior looks great! Only has cassette though. And one set of snow tires goes with the car. Most of the work has been done by a local shop that specializes in european cars. I checked their credentials and they seem like they know what they are doing. Odometer now read 156,3XX miles.
I will be making an offer soon, but I would like to know what is your opinion of a fair price?
TIA.
Flaws:
front bumper cover has had a very slight bump, small nick and some cracked paint; rear tires are cupped badly, but still have lots of tread; exhaust has been "repaired" and the repair has failed (hanger is broken off....no holes though); some light scratches on the rear bumper cover; battery is the orginal (going on six years old and it cranks slow); there is a 'service insp' indicator in the instrument cluster that goes out after its been running a few minutes; there are a few small nicks in the wheels. One headlight is mis-aligned- severly.
Driving impressions:
The car drove great (other than the noise from the rear tires). Still feels like it has lots of power and it is a very smooth ride. No clunks or rattles. Goes striaght down the road and the clutch feels good too. Everything works (windows, locks, radio, heat, fog lights -rear fog lights?- heated seats, sun/moon roof,...etc) and the interior looks great! Only has cassette though. And one set of snow tires goes with the car. Most of the work has been done by a local shop that specializes in european cars. I checked their credentials and they seem like they know what they are doing. Odometer now read 156,3XX miles.
I will be making an offer soon, but I would like to know what is your opinion of a fair price?
TIA.
well, I did the deed... I bought it. I think I'm gonna be sick.
I have begun going over it much more closely now... seeing somethings I didn't see before, hopefully nothing major. I hope I'm not getting in over my head here.
So much talk about timing belts and their need for replacement every 60K miles. I don't have the milage figures yet but the belt was done about a year and a half ago. Probably at 40K miles on the belt by now. I have not recieved the Bentely manual yet but looking through the Haynes manual the job looks involved, but not impossible for me to do myself. Funny thing is I don't see any mention of removing anything more than some covers and pulleys and of course the belt. Why are people saying it cost $200 to $400 in parts? Is the belt really that expensive? (It should last forever if it is) Is it necessary to replcae the gears too? How many of you guys done this job yourself? Is there a better belt to buy?
The adventure really begins now!
Thanks for everyones help so far.
I have begun going over it much more closely now... seeing somethings I didn't see before, hopefully nothing major. I hope I'm not getting in over my head here.
So much talk about timing belts and their need for replacement every 60K miles. I don't have the milage figures yet but the belt was done about a year and a half ago. Probably at 40K miles on the belt by now. I have not recieved the Bentely manual yet but looking through the Haynes manual the job looks involved, but not impossible for me to do myself. Funny thing is I don't see any mention of removing anything more than some covers and pulleys and of course the belt. Why are people saying it cost $200 to $400 in parts? Is the belt really that expensive? (It should last forever if it is) Is it necessary to replcae the gears too? How many of you guys done this job yourself? Is there a better belt to buy?
The adventure really begins now!
Thanks for everyones help so far.
These are the parts in the ECS Timing belt kit
ECS Ultimate Timing Belt Kit- AEB & ATW Engine Codes Only
Everything you need for a complete timing belt job, buy it all together & save.
With the great success of our early version Timing Belt Kit, ECS has decided to offer a more complete kit with everything customers usually order when replacing their timing belt.
Kit includes the following:
# Timing Belt
# OEM Tensioner
# OEM Tensioner Roller
# OEM Idler Roller
# Hepu OE Water Pump With gasket
# Wahler OE Thermostat with O-ring
# A/C Belt
# P/S Belt
# Alternator Belt
http://www.ecstuning.com/stage/edpd/...ory=Mechanical
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