General questions about timing belt job
Dismantling and assembling engine[/align]Lock carrier: moving into service position[/align]
Special tools, testers and other equipment required
45 Nm
45 Nm
10 Nm
10 Nm [/ul]
Hole in lock carrier
Hole in wing panel [/ul]
‒Remove front bumper. [/ul]
‒Undo the 3 quick-release fasteners on the noise insulation at the front.
‒Unbolt air duct between lock carrier and air cleaner (air duct is bolted to lock carrier).
‒Remove retainer clips (if fitted) for wiring harness to the left of the radiator cowl.
‒Remove bolt -2- on the right and screw in special tool 3369.
‒Screw special tool 3369 into hole -5- (left). [/ul]
‒Remove bolts -1- and -3-.
‒Remove bolts -4- and pull the whole lock carrier out as far as it will go.
‒Secure the lock carrier with suitable M6 bolts in hole -6- (lock carrier) and hole -7- (wing panel).
‒When lock carrier has been installed, check that the wiring next to the radiator is correctly routed.
‒Install front bumper. [/ul]
[IMG]local://upfiles/12092/6630EF5C8FC2413D9EBC5E17E720CD38.jpg[/IMG]
fun fun, im fixing to order my TB kit, VVG, Cam tensioner gasket, rear coolant flange and a few more prevetative mainenance stuff since im hitting 75k and none of the usual problems yet....
im planning on two days of cursing, drinking and busted knuckles,.... i may install a fMIC if i can pickup this racetec used for a good $ and a new TIP
im planning on two days of cursing, drinking and busted knuckles,.... i may install a fMIC if i can pickup this racetec used for a good $ and a new TIP
You dont need to take the radiator out of the carrier. Just disconnect the upper/lower rad. hoses on the drivers side, and there are a couple wires/sensors on the passanger side of the rad that need removed and then you can slide it forward (after you take off the bumper shocks and2 torx bolts on each side on top, and also the hood release latch/cable). You dont even need to swing it out of the way. Its doable by sliding the carrier forward.
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