No im having problems with elsa web right now, just pull the ecm box cover off, there should be a couple of fuses right there. BTW did you buy a brand new crank sensor, and where did you buy it?

 

Yes, it is a brand new sensor from AutoZone. It even has the audi symbol on it, so I assume it is a genuine part. Would you be able to tell me which fuses will be in the ECU box?

 

Well if they are there it should be a big *** 40amp fuse and a small 15 amp fuse, both are for the ECM. If you car doesn't have them then its a different engine managment system and all the fuses are on the drivers side that you already checked. If you find no problems with any fuses i would try to go to a junk yard or find a buddy that has a pre-00 A4 and borrow his ECM and see if it works on your car.

 

I just opened the ECU box AND took out the ecu out and could not see any fuses:-(

 

Find a donor ECM to try then.

 

Ok, I just did this ICM test:
http://forums.audiworld.com/a4/msgs/1594531.phtml

and got open circuit on all cylinders. Do you think this test is valid?

Thank you.

 

I honestly don't think you'll be able to test an ICM with a voltmeter and get consistant results from unit to unit, test to test. This is an integrated circuit (at least several switching power transisters on a single piece of silicon) and the various digitial multi-meters available do strange things ICs like (feed square pulse waves). Transisters fail in different modes, in too many ways to predict and develop an quick-and-easy table to test from.

Unless someone can provide me with an internal schematic of the Bosch 4D0 905 351, I'd say you're going to get mixed results from different people testing with different multi-meters, and don't rely on of the ICM "tests" posted here.

Buy a new one from Parts Quick at $70 per unit. A spare in the trunk might not be a bad idea iether. I just put one in (cylndar 2 failing to fire) and this fixed it.

 

Right, the only way you can test the ICM is with an LED (see below) Im really beginning to think that crank sensor you got from autozone was crap.













Checking power output stage



l
Signals to power output stage OK →Chapter.



–
Disconnect 4-pin harness connector from power output stage.



–
Connect Voltage Tester -VAG1527B- between Battery Positive Voltage (B+) and, in turn, each terminal of power output stage 4-pin connector.



–
Crank starter for a few seconds in each case.



LED must blink all 4 times



If the LED in the tester does not blink for all terminals:



–
Replace power output stage.
Note[/align]


LED testers with very little power consumption glow slightly before cranking the engine. During cranking they will get brighter or darker.

 

Just to verify, when you say "Connect Voltage Tester -VAG1527B- between Battery Positive Voltage (B+) and, in turn, each terminal of power output stage 4-pin connector.", you mean the 4 spade connectors on the actual power stage, not on the harness, correct?

Thank you very much.

 

Yeah on the output stage itself, if it were on the connector you would just be testing the signals to the output stage VS the output stage itself.