Oil pressure is good - but pressure lights still blinking!
#1
Oil pressure is good - but pressure lights still blinking!
Ok, here's the deal... I have a blinking low oil pressure light when I'm anywhere above idle. I just changed the oil and it was black before. It is black now again...2 days later...and barely any driving.(scared to drive with that light blinking) So I concluded that since there is oil pressure at idle, then the pump still works but that the sump screen is clogged or something like that. I don't want to replace the pump if I can help it. ( I have 121k on odo) I read up on some posts that say you can use kerosene to flush the engine before an oil change. Do I just pour a half quart of kerosene where I pour in the oil and run it for ten mins and drain the oil and refill? What type of oil filter should I use to? Should I replace this filter that I just put in with the first oil change or is it still good. What type of oil should I use this time to help with the low oil pressure? Is 0W 40 Mobile 1 synthetic good enough? I know that I could use seafoam treatment, but you need to drive around for a few hundred miles for it to do something, right? Thats why I'm looking to do this kerosene flush. Would you guys recommend this or is this a bad idea? Is there something else that I could do to help out this situation?
Another thing...My tachometer works once in 10 times. If it works, it works for the whole trip, abd then doesn't work the next few times that the car is run. How do I check whats wrong? How would you guys fix this? Also, where is the sensor for the airbag in the front? the cable going from that sensor is ripped- just hanging there and I don't know where it connected to. The airbag light is on. THanks for your input.
Another thing...My tachometer works once in 10 times. If it works, it works for the whole trip, abd then doesn't work the next few times that the car is run. How do I check whats wrong? How would you guys fix this? Also, where is the sensor for the airbag in the front? the cable going from that sensor is ripped- just hanging there and I don't know where it connected to. The airbag light is on. THanks for your input.
#2
RE: Attempting to flush engine to keep from changing oil pump...
i have almost the same oil psi problem, to a lesser extent, i plan to just bite the bullet, drop the pan, clean it out, and replace anything that needs it, most likely the whole oil pump and accessories... id rather that than a blown motor.
#3
RE: Attempting to flush engine to keep from changing oil pump...
By the way, I have the 2.8 engine (manual) if that helps . And I added "engine restore" with the first oil change. Is it hard to drop the pan? I'm not a pro or anything. just a novice trying to save money because i'm just a poor student.
#4
RE: Attempting to flush engine to keep from changing oil pump...
Unless you haven't been doing the oil changes properly, the 2.8 engine shouldn't have a sluge issue. Its about 8 hours of labor at the dealership to drop the oil pan and put it back on. So I'd guess if you know what you are doing, it might take you 2-3 hours to drop and start replacing the parts. You need to have a hoist apparently, or at least thats what I have been told.
#5
RE: Attempting to flush engine to keep from changing oil pump...
what year is your car? The previous owner of my car had that problem which then turned into a ticking (really bad)... he brought it to the dealership and they said that there was a recall on that particular oil pump which in turn destroyed his engine. You should look into it. I bought the car from him about six months ago with maybe 6K on the engine for 8K... not a bad deal, He is my brother though... and he got the 05 A6 2.7TT... lucky.... you should look into it
#7
RE: Attempting to flush engine to keep from changing oil pump...
This is really rare for a 2.8.. Your car must had been seriously neglected by the previous owner(s). If it was black again after only 2 days, i dont think a kerosine/ DIY flush is going to cut it.. If you are capable, drop the pan and do what you gotta do, but I would consider a proffesional flush job from a VW dealer. They do them on Passats a lot, and I would trust a VW dealer over an Audi dealer as far as getting the job done right, and not paying out the nose goes.
#8
RE: Attempting to flush engine to keep from changing oil pump...
^^yep, most lilely was neglected at some point. i would def pull the pan, and if the light has been blinking you most likely need to change you main bearings as well as the rod bearings, which results in needind to the change the main seal and crank seal. A flashing light means absolutly do not start the car no matter what. That is the most serious warning light you can have
#9
RE: Attempting to flush engine to keep from changing oil pump...
I did a kerosene flush this morning. The light is still on - noo change. So I'm going to drop the lower oil pan and see if i can clean it out along with the pickup /screen. I did get a whine sounding noise after the flush and oil change that won't go away that I assume is a bad bearing somewhere. (started making the noise when I was running the car for about 5 min after adding the kerosene.) It's not too loud but it's there. Is that expensive?(changing the bearings). Where can I get them for a good price? Can I do this myself or is this only for a professional mechanic? How many hours labor approximately? What will happen if I continue driving with bad bearings for a while, a week or so? Thanks.
#10
RE: Attempting to flush engine to keep from changing oil pump...
ORIGINAL: rustyleskiv
I did a kerosene flush this morning. The light is still on - noo change. So I'm going to drop the lower oil pan and see if i can clean it out along with the pickup /screen. I did get a whine sounding noise after the flush and oil change that won't go away that I assume is a bad bearing somewhere. (started making the noise when I was running the car for about 5 min after adding the kerosene.) It's not too loud but it's there. Is that expensive?(changing the bearings). Where can I get them for a good price? Can I do this myself or is this only for a professional mechanic? How many hours labor approximately? What will happen if I continue driving with bad bearings for a while, a week or so? Thanks.
I did a kerosene flush this morning. The light is still on - noo change. So I'm going to drop the lower oil pan and see if i can clean it out along with the pickup /screen. I did get a whine sounding noise after the flush and oil change that won't go away that I assume is a bad bearing somewhere. (started making the noise when I was running the car for about 5 min after adding the kerosene.) It's not too loud but it's there. Is that expensive?(changing the bearings). Where can I get them for a good price? Can I do this myself or is this only for a professional mechanic? How many hours labor approximately? What will happen if I continue driving with bad bearings for a while, a week or so? Thanks.