OMG - What have I done!
Thanks a lot for the help. However, I tried this a couple of times, and I had no luck with it. I made sure to disconnect battery for a full 10 minutes, and then reconnected, turned on ignition for 5 minutes (without starting car). Sounded like it was running through a number of adjustments and checks. But, alas. I still have the issue. Going to have my VAG COM cable soon. Any recommended tests that I should do?
Thanks,
Thanks,
lol, sorry but i cant help it.... after reading all these comments, i was figuring... what exactly should he do? My vote as a newbie says: Go to the nearest Audi Dealer.
Thats my only choice if i were in his shoes. :P
Thats my only choice if i were in his shoes. :P
when you get the vag cable, run a full scan of the car, it'll tell you exactly whats up with everything. I'd clear out all the codes, go try driving for a bit again, and then reconnect to the vag-com. Codes that just kinda popped up on their own before SHOULD be cleared still, leaving the ones that actually matter, and you can go about troubleshooting from there. Not sure if this is exactly the procedure that should be followed, but thats how I do it.
OK. Did as instructed by achTTung and others. Here are the codes I end up with on the engine module.
Chassis Type: 8D - Audi A4 B5
Scan: 01,02,03,08,15,17,25,35,45,55,56
Address 01 -------------------------------------------------------
Controller: 4B0 906 018 CH
Component: 1.8L R4/5VT G 0002
Coding: 16251
Shop #: WSC 03832
7 Faults Found:
17887 - Brake Boost Vacuum System: Mechanical Failure
P1479 - 35-00 - -
16684 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0300 - 35-00 - -
16685 - Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected
P0301 - 35-00 - -
16688 - Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected
P0304 - 35-00 - -
16686 - Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected
P0302 - 35-00 - -
16502 - Engine Coolant Temp. Sensor (G62): Signal too High
P0118 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17584 - Bank1: O2S (Lambda) Correction Behind Catalyst: Control Limit Reached
P1176 - 35-00 - -
Readiness: 0010 1101
-----
Before I cleared the codes and drove for a while, I was getting a few others:
----
17536 - Fuel Trim: Bank 1 (Mult): System too Lean P1128 - 35-00 - -
16687 - Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected P0303 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
18010 - Power Supply Terminal 30: Voltage too Low P1602 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
---
It is starting too look like some sort of mixture problem? I will have to do some more research.
Chassis Type: 8D - Audi A4 B5
Scan: 01,02,03,08,15,17,25,35,45,55,56
Address 01 -------------------------------------------------------
Controller: 4B0 906 018 CH
Component: 1.8L R4/5VT G 0002
Coding: 16251
Shop #: WSC 03832
7 Faults Found:
17887 - Brake Boost Vacuum System: Mechanical Failure
P1479 - 35-00 - -
16684 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0300 - 35-00 - -
16685 - Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected
P0301 - 35-00 - -
16688 - Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected
P0304 - 35-00 - -
16686 - Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected
P0302 - 35-00 - -
16502 - Engine Coolant Temp. Sensor (G62): Signal too High
P0118 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17584 - Bank1: O2S (Lambda) Correction Behind Catalyst: Control Limit Reached
P1176 - 35-00 - -
Readiness: 0010 1101
-----
Before I cleared the codes and drove for a while, I was getting a few others:
----
17536 - Fuel Trim: Bank 1 (Mult): System too Lean P1128 - 35-00 - -
16687 - Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected P0303 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
18010 - Power Supply Terminal 30: Voltage too Low P1602 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
---
It is starting too look like some sort of mixture problem? I will have to do some more research.
Well, I don't have the tools to test the Brake Boost system, and changing out the rear o2 sensor doesn't seem to me to be a complete solution. Basically, I think it must be the ECU because I can't see any real good reason for such major issues, and the Bentley manual says that doing what I did may damage the ECU. So, I guess I am just going to bite the bullet and pay for a rebuilt ECU. If that doesn't fix it, I will take it to the shop. Then I guess I can always just sell the extra ECU, or install a new chip in it. Anybody know where a good place to buy is? How about ecudirect.com?
I thought about taking it in to my shop, but for some reason, I am worried that they will just start replacing stuff, and eventually realize that the ECU is bad. I just wish I had the codes before all this happened so I could compare and know for sure if those the Brake Boost and the rear o2 were really bad.
I dunno.
[:@]
I thought about taking it in to my shop, but for some reason, I am worried that they will just start replacing stuff, and eventually realize that the ECU is bad. I just wish I had the codes before all this happened so I could compare and know for sure if those the Brake Boost and the rear o2 were really bad.
I dunno.
[:@]
i had a similiar situation...
tried to start the car without the negative connected to the battery. When it was eventually connected, i had low RPMS and it would go up and down. what i did was drive it around on the freeway and it eventually fixed itself.
good luck.
tried to start the car without the negative connected to the battery. When it was eventually connected, i had low RPMS and it would go up and down. what i did was drive it around on the freeway and it eventually fixed itself.
good luck.
ORIGINAL: tpneumat
Well, I don't have the tools to test the Brake Boost system, and changing out the rear o2 sensor doesn't seem to me to be a complete solution. Basically, I think it must be the ECU because I can't see any real good reason for such major issues, and the Bentley manual says that doing what I did may damage the ECU. So, I guess I am just going to bite the bullet and pay for a rebuilt ECU. If that doesn't fix it, I will take it to the shop. Then I guess I can always just sell the extra ECU, or install a new chip in it. Anybody know where a good place to buy is? How about ecudirect.com?
I thought about taking it in to my shop, but for some reason, I am worried that they will just start replacing stuff, and eventually realize that the ECU is bad. I just wish I had the codes before all this happened so I could compare and know for sure if those the Brake Boost and the rear o2 were really bad.
I dunno.
[:@]
Well, I don't have the tools to test the Brake Boost system, and changing out the rear o2 sensor doesn't seem to me to be a complete solution. Basically, I think it must be the ECU because I can't see any real good reason for such major issues, and the Bentley manual says that doing what I did may damage the ECU. So, I guess I am just going to bite the bullet and pay for a rebuilt ECU. If that doesn't fix it, I will take it to the shop. Then I guess I can always just sell the extra ECU, or install a new chip in it. Anybody know where a good place to buy is? How about ecudirect.com?
I thought about taking it in to my shop, but for some reason, I am worried that they will just start replacing stuff, and eventually realize that the ECU is bad. I just wish I had the codes before all this happened so I could compare and know for sure if those the Brake Boost and the rear o2 were really bad.
I dunno.
[:@]
ORIGINAL: parks853
I think that APR will see a pre-chipped ECU. If you want a chipped ECU you may want to check that out. You can also send your ECU to them and have it chipped. Maybe they can fix your problem.
I think that APR will see a pre-chipped ECU. If you want a chipped ECU you may want to check that out. You can also send your ECU to them and have it chipped. Maybe they can fix your problem.
Taking my car to a trusted local shop to at least have them fix the Brake Boost system. If they determine that I have a bad ECU, I will likely order from ECUDirect and just do that work myself.
ECU direct wants $589 + $150 core deposit for an ECU for my car (99.5 A4 1.8T). That is way to high. You can buy a chipped ECU cheaper than that! There are quite a few on some forums right now. I am actually selling an APR Chipped one for a 97-99.5 A4. I know there are atleast 2 up right now for 00-01.


