2003 Audi A4 1.8T 104000 KMS for 19,900 CDN
Ok so today I took the car in for a compression and electrical test.
The compression was a solid 135lbs each cylinder. Is this Normal?
Sparkplugs are showing heavy wear but burning clean???
Ok heres the werid part. Starter Load Test. Pulling 500-550 Amps. Is this Normal? Should I get the seller to replace the starter?
Alternator checked showing 12.8 volts output then dropping to 10.8 Could this be the diodes giving out? Replace alternator?
Battery showing heavy wear.


I checked up on the cars history.

Newest to latest.
Last Visit to an audi dealer was Nov 2006 at 86100 kms for a clutch and flywheel.
Aug 2006 Fuel pump replaced on warranty.
At 77,000 kms front and rear brakes/rotors replaced.

Since this was a leased vehicle. I assume all the maintainance was done. Should I go for it and sign the papers tomorrow????

THANKS FOR YOUR TIME

 

Ithink you mean 135psi, which is not solid - it's low. compression should be in the 150-185 psi range.
Why do you want this car?

 

What do you mean why? Its the only good deal around where i live.

 

Anybody else with some opinions?

 

If its low what does that indicate? Seals? Cylinders? I thought compression would be low because its a turbo. Is it really a bad thing that compression is low? I have not singed any papers.

 

im not sure about those specific numbers but u can pm auditech79, rbrtech, or techbod and they should be very helpful. i've never seen a starter go bad on an A4. also u have to make the timing belt was done or make them do it before u sign the papers. i guess that's about it though

 

Buying a car with cylindercompression far below thetypical expected working rangeis like dating an ugly chick or bringing O'Douls to a party...no wait, it's like buying a new 15 year old pet dog.

 

I did somew research and this is what i found....New cylinders 145-203psi
Wear Limit 103psi.
This is from the bentley manual where are u getting your info from?
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3521125

 

They wont do the timing belt since the cars is at 100000kms and the service needs to be done at 155000 accoriding to my audi dealship but im gonna do it at 120000. I tried to haggle but they wont budge.
And thanks for your help. Unlike this BOGIE character who makes no sense.

 

-Check on timing belt/water pump replacement history; $900 US or DIY for $250 (moderate to difficult); should be done @ 70k miles, even though dealer redcommends 105K.
-oil change and type used history - some turbos go out early, check for noise, leaks, performance. Note that if the turbo has some bearing play, oil return line partially plugged, leak that can cause a small particle to get sucked into turbo, etc you are looking at $2K plus...
-front brakes & rotors,

I recommend not purchasing an Audi unless it has a very good service history, is Audi certified, or is discounted to allow for all of the above. I bought an '02 A4 Q, 89K (10K) that checked out at Audi prior to purchasing with no mechanical issues except wipers. Two days later, I returned it to Audi as I felt it did not perform properly: After two more visits, Audi ended up replacing the Turbo, hoses, etc; rear seat heater work, and other minor mechanicals.I will be replacing the timing belt. Cost me $50 deductible, Audi Certified. This particular car was in such good overall shape that I would have bought it without the warranty...would have cost me big $...

good luck,

Paul