I have to agree with comments on Sony subs - I have a pair of 10" Explodes in my truck and all I can say is that the price was the best feature. My setup in my A4 is a dual voice Polk 10" sub, wired for a 2 ohm load, hooked to a mono class D Sony amp producing 500 watts RMS at 0.6% THD. The combination works very well - nice clean sound, and more power than I need.

The comments on over rated power output are justified. The number stamped on the outside of the amp by the marketing department is 1100 watts, which is the peak power at 2 ohms. Be aware that the vast majority of manufacturers state peak power more prominently than RMS. Peak power is meaningless, as is any RMS power rating stated at more than 1% THD. I prefer power ratings at 0.1 or 0.2% THD, however, which is an imperceptible level of distortion, and is consistent with power ratings as stated by high end manufacturers. The sub I am using has an RMS power rating of 50 to 300 RMS, and so is a good match for the amp.

People have their favorite brands, and that's cool. Bottom line is check out specs, and listen to anything you are considering before you buy.

 

i had kemwood amps in my jeep and i loved them, they lasted me a while and they had nifty little cooling fans on them. i had a pioneer amp that blew, so dont buy pioneer.

 

Looks like Sony has turned over a new leaf - just looked on Crutchfield, and they are now complying with voluntary standard CEA-2006 in their power listings. The standard calls for amp power ratings to be RMS at 1% THD for a 4 ohm load. Ironically, it means their current class D mono amp is listed at 300 watts, even though it puts out 600 for a 2 ohm load. Looks like they listened to complaints about misleading/overstated power ratings - more power to the people! (hey, that was a pun :-))

 

aight ill check out MTX again.... how bout infinity subs?? The amp doesnt matter to me bc mines gotta stay. Im gonna go double check my RMS rating right now. Thanks a lot guys.

 

200 watts RMS x 1 at 4 ohms
400 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms
2-ohm stable
Class D circuitry
50-300 Hz low-pass filter, 12 dB/octave
bass boost (0-10 dB centered at 40 Hz)
speaker- and preamp-level inputs
preamp outputs
gold-plated connectors

---- Thats my amp info.

 

Get yourself a good dual voice coil sub, wire it up to present a 2 ohm load, and you should be good to go.

 

ok... i didnt kno that you could choose how many ohm's you want... could you explain that a little??

 

Sure thing - read this explanation from Crutchfield. Basically a dual voice coil speaker has two sets of +/- posts rather than the usual one. If you wire them in parallel, it halves the load. For a standard 4 ohm speaker, the load becomes 2 ohms. Less resistance = more power. The speaker will come with wiring instructions, so there's no risk of messing it up. Your amp should have wiring instructions as well.

 

BTW Turbo I like your lip spoiler, i'm gonna get one soon as i have $$$

 

ok i see wat ur sayin. on my old sub, I have 2 +/- connections. but they are wired together and then only one of those connections is also connected to the amp. Is that the setup ur talkin bout b6?