i have a 4000 watt amp and two kicker cvx 15"'s that im building fiberglass enclosures for, to go in soon...then im going to need to sound dampen the **** out of my trunk so it wont rattle like hell

 

Speaking of which does anyone know what the colors of the pre-amp wires are?

And what exactly do you mean by "rig up an rca", are you refering to using a line out converter?

 

Personally, I would go with a JL audio 10 or 12w7, depending on how much thump you want. My buddy had a 10w6 in his truck and that had more bang then my 2 10w3's...

 

2x 15"? You got a thing for boom and no clarity? Watch out for your windshield popping out. Know someone who had that happen with 2 15's.

The throw on a 15" speaker is like 30 ft (off the top of my head, but i know it's more than 10ft). You're not even going to actually hear the notes. You're gonna feel them, but for the most part, at that distance, you'll really just hear boom boom boom boom boom.

For the RCA's, the left and right channel, instead of having an independent ground (on home speakers, it's usually red/black), the left and right share a common ground. So when I say 'rig up', I mean you cut off the tips of the RCA cable (b/c both left and right channels have their own ground, separate the left and right +, from the ground. Connect the two grounds, so you have three wires. Left and right +, and a common ground. splice into the left +, right+ and common ground, and wire in the modified RCA plug.

 

well im only going to bridge it, so its 1000 a piece, and im designing one speaker so its ported, and one so it sealed...working out the calculations now...i wish i didnt suck at math so i could do this easier

and im going to use the other 2000 watts to power my interior speakers...im also trying to figure out a way to do so, i dont know if there is a way to have them on their own channels is there, or do i need an eq or something ?

 

I suggest you seek professional help, or at least put out the exact specs of everything you've got. A lot of what you're saying doesn't make any sense.

'only going to bridge it'. When you bridge an amplifier, you essentially combine the two channels into 1. Say you have a stereo (2 channel) amp that is rated 2x150watts rms @ 4ohms. That would imply that you can get 150watts per channel if you run a 4 ohm speaker to the channel. If you run an 8ohm speaker to the channel, you'll only draw aprox 50% of the power, or 75watts. If you have an amp that is under these specs, and you have a single 8ohm woofer, that can handle the 300watts rms, it would be wise to bridge the amp, combining both channels of the amp, to draw the full 300watts from the amp. This is done by taking the + lead from one channel and the - lead from the other channel. When you say "only bridge" it's kinda backwards, as bridging draws more power, not less.

Additionally, you say you're bridging so it's 1 kW a woofer. Then I assume this is a 4 channel amp? Otherwise you wouldn't be able to bridge the amp twice. Unless, you're wiring the speakers parallel, and then bridging it from there. Make sure that you amp can be run bridged at 4ohms (or 2 ohms if you've got 4 ohm speakers). A lot of amps cannot run at 2 ohms bridged.

When you say you want to use the other 2 kW for the internal speakers, I would then assume you do in fact have a 4 channel amp, thus leaving the other 2 channels for other use. You can run those to the cabin speakers (if they're not the bose ones, i hear it's not worth changing the power amp to the bose ones per audiworld articles). You can buy 8ohm speakers, wire them parallel per side, and maintain left/right fidelity while losing the ability to fade front/back, and draw whatever power @4ohms. FYI, most car speakers cannot handle 500watts each. You're getting into comp. speakers, and if you were to spend that much on speakers, i don't have a clue why you'd do a ghetto wire job off a single 4ch amp. Eq would have nothing to do with being able to seperate left/right and front/back.

So again, post the specs of the amp (links to online stores are the best, as those specs give the most details). Keep in mind, depending on what brand this amp is, it may not be a true 4 kW amp. A lot of amps advertise the peak power, and not the RMS power. An amp can run all day pushing rms, but will not realistically hit it's peak power consistently. A 4 kW peak power amp is around 2 kW RMS.

 

I have a 500/1 powering my 10w7 in a sealed box and it sounds fantastic. Also doesn't take up too much room in the trunk. Just make sure that you have a grill or something to protect the sub if you do put stuff in the trunk.

 

your friend with the windshield prob obviously had an improperly installed windsheild as there is no way a properly installed windshield would pop out from any kind of daily driven system.

and im going to guess you mean 30mm of throw on a 15" and not ft. Either if properly installed he will hear his notes just fine.

now when you say you are going to have one ported and one sealed are they going to be pplaying at the same time? If so you are undoubtedly going to run into cancellation issues. If you really want the flat response of a sealed alignment with the extra output of a ported alignment i suggest you port the enclosures and tune the low between 27-29hz.

now on to your power claims. What amp are you using. There is no reason on earth you would need 2kw of power on you interior speakers especially if they are the stock speakers. What speakers do you plan on runing this gross amount of power on. If you need some help with the enclosure design and everything feel free to pm me i would be glad to help.

to the OP. Jl is always a good choice if you plan to purchase your equipment retail they make some very nice drivers and their amps are pretty nice to just a bit on the expensive side for most people. Also look into Mach 5 as previously mentioned canadian based company that makes some nice drivers as well and they are cheap as fudge to boot. Image Dynamics, Ascendant Audio, Dayton Loudspeaker, Fi car audio (another new companyt people are going crazy over) Stereo Integrity(the CA&E review of the Mag was bs fyi), Sound Splinter, and TC Sounds are a few other good sub companies to look into.

 

its all a work in progress, nothing set in stone yet

i will probably just get another 4-6-8 channel amp for my interior speakers if i want to add more, i dont have bose, and i would most likely be going with mb quart speakers

i have a leagcy amp (piece of ****, i know...but i got it dirt cheap so i figured i would give it a try)
LA-2268
2 channel amplifier
rms @ 4ohms 2x300
rms @ 2 ohms 2x450
max output 2x2000
bridge mode 1x4000

2 kicker cvx15
2 ohm impedance
resonant frequency 21.5

im not in any rush, will be my winter project

and im not going to ghetto anything, i've put in two other systems and both came out pretty good

and for the one sealed one ported thing i was going for
i figured i would have one small sealed box for tighter cleaner bass
and one ported for louded deeper bass
and yes have them in at the same time...i was just curious as to what that would do and wanted to try

 

that amp is going to do nowhere near 4kw let alone come close to doing its actually rated power. I suggest you come up with a budget and look into getting a dent amps. You really shouldnt need more then 4 channels of amplification for you interior and ive only ever really seen one 8 channel amp.

trust me when i tell you that using two different enclosure alignments at the same time will not yeild any kind of mix between the two types of enclosure. go with my previous suggested of a ported enclosure tuned low as that will yeild very close to the same sound of sealed with the added output of a ported enclosure