Tie rod issues
Thread Starter
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1st Gear
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 64
Tie rod issues
Ok, so here is my dilemna. I had some vibrations after brand new tires, so I checked out my wheel well and found my outer tie rod ends were completely shot. I just finishing replacing my 1st one, and I got the wheel tightened back on, but I noticed side to side play in the suspension. So... From my understanding of the tie rods, there are just 2 parts, the inner tie rod & boot and the outer tie rod, right? Since I just replaced the outer tie rod end, this must be a problem with the inner tie rod end, correct?
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 12,826
From:
RE: Tie rod issues
im thinking track control arm item number 25, first picture is the track rod end /tie rod as you call it
[IMG]local://upfiles/12092/C91116A41528478CB52F135618E7423A.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/12092/69CAA11F47C74F3F83278B3495B642F3.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/12092/C91116A41528478CB52F135618E7423A.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/12092/69CAA11F47C74F3F83278B3495B642F3.jpg[/IMG]
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 12,826
From:
RE: Tie rod issues
Front axle component layout
Layout of components
Hexagon bolt, 75 Nm
Washer
Hexagon bolt
â—† Note different bolt lengths
‒ With steel mounting bracket: M10 x 60
‒ With aluminium mounting bracket:
M10 x 62
â—† Always replace after removing
Rear upper link
â—† Heed different versions: With and without buffer stop =>Fig.1 and Fig.2
â—† Replacing bush => Page 40-137
Hexagon bolt, 5 Nm
â—† Screw on until contact is made
Bolt
Self-locking nut, 50 Nm
â—† Always replace after removing
â—† 42 Nm for steel wheel bearing housing
â—† 50 Nm for aluminium wheel bearing housing
Hexagon bolt M 10 x 100
â—† If hexagon bolt cannot be removed from wheel bearing housing -Item 40-113
Self-locking nut, 40 Nm
â—† Always replace after removing
Front upper link
â—† Can only be removed together with mounting bracket
â—† Removing and installing mounting bracket => Page 40-125
â—† Replacing bush => Page 40-125
Suspension strut
â—† Note different spring/shock absorber versions => Page 40-77, vehicle data sticker
â—† Removing and installing=>Page 40-67
â—† Servicing => Page 40-74
Hexagon bolt
M 12 x 1.5 x 120
â—† Always replace after removing
Lower guide link
If leaking, hydro-bush must be replaced => Page 40-167
â—† Assignment
=> Parts List
Self-locking nut
â—† Always replace after removing
â—† Assignment
=> Parts List
â—† Flange nut, M12 x 1.5, for wheel bearing housing with no bushing (old version)
Tightening torque: 100 Nm
â—† Combi nut, M12 x 1.5, for wheel bearing housing with bushing (new version)
Tightening torque: 125 Nm
â—† Vehicles with wheel bearing housings with no bushings and old type track control links -Item 25- are to be fitted with flange nuts
â—† On installing wheel bearing housings with bushings, flange nuts are to be replaced with combi nuts
Wheel bearing housing/wheel bearing housing with bolted wheel bearing
â—† Assignment
=> Parts List
â—† Different wheel bearing housing versions (with and without bushings) => Page 40-85
â—† Removing and installing
=> Page 40-85
â—† Servicing wheel bearing housing
=> Page 40-95
â—† Servicing wheel bearing housing with bolted bearing => Page 40-113
â—† For vehicles with headlight range control, heed notes on removal and installation => Page 40-22
Splash plate
Hexagon bolt
â—† Always replace after removing
Vehicle must be standing on ground when tightening bolt
Tightening torques:
M14 bolt:
◆ 115 Nm + further 180° turn
M16 bolt:
◆ 190 Nm + further 180° turn
Hexagon socket-head bolt, 10 Nm
Self-locking nut
â—† Always replace after removing
â—† Assignment
=> Parts List
â—† Flange nut, M12 x 1.5, for wheel bearing housing with no bushing (old version)
Tightening torque: 100 Nm
â—† Combi nut, M12 x 1.5, for wheel bearing housing with bushing (new version)
Tightening torque: 125 Nm
â—† Vehicles with wheel bearing housings with no bushings and old type track control links -Item 25- are to be fitted with flange nuts
â—† On installing wheel bearing housings with bushings, flange nuts are to be replaced with combi nuts
Hexagon bolt M 12 x 1.5 x 85
Note:
On vehicles as of the following chassis numbers, the suspension strut bolted joint was re-positioned, i.e. bolt head faces in direction of travel and nut -Item 21- is located between track control link and guide link
-Items 25 and 13-:
â—† 8D1A 146 169 (Model Year 2001)
â—† 8D2A 000 512 (Model Year 2002)
â—† 8D1N 905 194 (RS4)
Self-locking nut, 90 Nm
â—† Always replace after removing
Connecting link
â—† Note modified connecting links and tightening torques => Page 40-19
Arrow on connecting link points in direction of travel
Self-locking hexagon nut
◆ 40 Nm + further 90° turn
â—† Always replace after removing
â—† Underside of nut is ribbed
Make exclusive use of this special nut as replacement part
Hexagon bolt M 12 x 1.5 x 100
â—† Always replace after removing
Track control link
â—† Assignment
=> Parts List
â—† Different track control link versions (for wheel bearing housings with and without bushings)=> Page 40-154
â—† Servicing => Page 40-159
â—† For vehicles with headlight range control, heed notes on sender removal and installation => Page 40-22
Clip
â—† Always replace
â—† Inserted in track control link
Hexagon bolt, 75 Nm
â—† M10 x 70
â—† Always replace after removing
Hexagon bolt M 12 x 1.5 x 110
◆ 110 Nm + further 90° turn
â—† Always replace after removing
Subframe
â—† For vehicles with headlight range control, heed notes on sender removal and installation => Page 40-22
â—† Removing and installing
=> Page 40-139
â—† Servicing => Page 40-148
Self-locking nut, 100 Nm
â—† Note modified connecting links and tightening torques => Page 40-19
â—† Underside of nut is ribbed
â—† Always replace after removing
Make exclusive use of this special nut as replacement part
Hexagon bolt
â—† M8 x 25
â—† Tightening torques:
‒ Non-ribbed bolt: 30 Nm => Fig.3
‒ Ribbed bolt: 75 Nm => Fig.3
Subframe support
Self-locking nut
◆ 80 Nm + further 90° turn
â—† Always replace after removing
Self-locking nut
◆ 90 Nm + further 90° turn
â—† Always replace after removing
Multi-point socket head bolt
Tightening torques:
Bolt M8 x 48: 40 Nm
Bolt M10 x 48: 80 Nm
Packing plate
Drive shaft
â—† Removing and installing=>Page 40-27
â—† Servicing => Page 40-30
Drive shaft with triple roller joint
â—† Servicing => Page 40-47
Twelve-point hexagon socket-head bolt, 80 Nm
â—† For vehicles with triple roller joint
â—† M10 x 20
Hexagon bolt
â—† Note different bolt lengths
‒ With steel mounting bracket: M10 x 60
‒ With aluminium mounting bracket:
M10 x 62
â—† Always replace after removing
Mounting bracket
â—† Removing and installing
=> Page 40-125
â—† Aluminium mounting brackets were introduced as of MY 98
â—† Heed correspondingly amended wheel alignment specifications
=>Pages 44-23
â—† Combination of different types (aluminium/steel mounting brackets) is not permitted
Self-locking nut
◆ 50 Nm + further 90° turn
â—† Always replace after removing
Self-locking flange nut, 20 Nm
â—† Always replace after removing
Stop plates were introduced as end stops as of chassis number -8DTA 321 912- for vehicles with sports and heavy-duty running gear.
Note:
Stop plates are not to be removed.
→ Fig.1 Stop plates
A - Cap
B - Stop plate
C - Rear upper link
D - Body
Buffer stop was introduced as of Model Year '97 at rear upper links.
→ Fig.2 Buffer stop
A - Rear upper link with buffer stop
Note:
On replacing rear upper link, make sure vehicles with no stop plates are always fitted with new link.
Attention:
Vehicles with stop plates are still fitted with link with no buffer stop.
Stop plate is not to be removed.
→ Fig.3 Heed different tightening torques
Exclusive use has been made of ribbed bolts since Model Year '98. These bolts may also be used on older models.
‒ Non-ribbed bolt -A- (arrow)
Tightening torque: 30 Nm
‒ Ribbed bolt -B- (arrow)
Tightening torque: 75 Nm
Layout of components
Hexagon bolt, 75 Nm
Washer
Hexagon bolt
â—† Note different bolt lengths
‒ With steel mounting bracket: M10 x 60
‒ With aluminium mounting bracket:
M10 x 62
â—† Always replace after removing
Rear upper link
â—† Heed different versions: With and without buffer stop =>Fig.1 and Fig.2
â—† Replacing bush => Page 40-137
Hexagon bolt, 5 Nm
â—† Screw on until contact is made
Bolt
Self-locking nut, 50 Nm
â—† Always replace after removing
â—† 42 Nm for steel wheel bearing housing
â—† 50 Nm for aluminium wheel bearing housing
Hexagon bolt M 10 x 100
â—† If hexagon bolt cannot be removed from wheel bearing housing -Item 40-113
Self-locking nut, 40 Nm
â—† Always replace after removing
Front upper link
â—† Can only be removed together with mounting bracket
â—† Removing and installing mounting bracket => Page 40-125
â—† Replacing bush => Page 40-125
Suspension strut
â—† Note different spring/shock absorber versions => Page 40-77, vehicle data sticker
â—† Removing and installing=>Page 40-67
â—† Servicing => Page 40-74
Hexagon bolt
M 12 x 1.5 x 120
â—† Always replace after removing
Lower guide link
If leaking, hydro-bush must be replaced => Page 40-167
â—† Assignment
=> Parts List
Self-locking nut
â—† Always replace after removing
â—† Assignment
=> Parts List
â—† Flange nut, M12 x 1.5, for wheel bearing housing with no bushing (old version)
Tightening torque: 100 Nm
â—† Combi nut, M12 x 1.5, for wheel bearing housing with bushing (new version)
Tightening torque: 125 Nm
â—† Vehicles with wheel bearing housings with no bushings and old type track control links -Item 25- are to be fitted with flange nuts
â—† On installing wheel bearing housings with bushings, flange nuts are to be replaced with combi nuts
Wheel bearing housing/wheel bearing housing with bolted wheel bearing
â—† Assignment
=> Parts List
â—† Different wheel bearing housing versions (with and without bushings) => Page 40-85
â—† Removing and installing
=> Page 40-85
â—† Servicing wheel bearing housing
=> Page 40-95
â—† Servicing wheel bearing housing with bolted bearing => Page 40-113
â—† For vehicles with headlight range control, heed notes on removal and installation => Page 40-22
Splash plate
Hexagon bolt
â—† Always replace after removing
Vehicle must be standing on ground when tightening bolt
Tightening torques:
M14 bolt:
◆ 115 Nm + further 180° turn
M16 bolt:
◆ 190 Nm + further 180° turn
Hexagon socket-head bolt, 10 Nm
Self-locking nut
â—† Always replace after removing
â—† Assignment
=> Parts List
â—† Flange nut, M12 x 1.5, for wheel bearing housing with no bushing (old version)
Tightening torque: 100 Nm
â—† Combi nut, M12 x 1.5, for wheel bearing housing with bushing (new version)
Tightening torque: 125 Nm
â—† Vehicles with wheel bearing housings with no bushings and old type track control links -Item 25- are to be fitted with flange nuts
â—† On installing wheel bearing housings with bushings, flange nuts are to be replaced with combi nuts
Hexagon bolt M 12 x 1.5 x 85
Note:
On vehicles as of the following chassis numbers, the suspension strut bolted joint was re-positioned, i.e. bolt head faces in direction of travel and nut -Item 21- is located between track control link and guide link
-Items 25 and 13-:
â—† 8D1A 146 169 (Model Year 2001)
â—† 8D2A 000 512 (Model Year 2002)
â—† 8D1N 905 194 (RS4)
Self-locking nut, 90 Nm
â—† Always replace after removing
Connecting link
â—† Note modified connecting links and tightening torques => Page 40-19
Arrow on connecting link points in direction of travel
Self-locking hexagon nut
◆ 40 Nm + further 90° turn
â—† Always replace after removing
â—† Underside of nut is ribbed
Make exclusive use of this special nut as replacement part
Hexagon bolt M 12 x 1.5 x 100
â—† Always replace after removing
Track control link
â—† Assignment
=> Parts List
â—† Different track control link versions (for wheel bearing housings with and without bushings)=> Page 40-154
â—† Servicing => Page 40-159
â—† For vehicles with headlight range control, heed notes on sender removal and installation => Page 40-22
Clip
â—† Always replace
â—† Inserted in track control link
Hexagon bolt, 75 Nm
â—† M10 x 70
â—† Always replace after removing
Hexagon bolt M 12 x 1.5 x 110
◆ 110 Nm + further 90° turn
â—† Always replace after removing
Subframe
â—† For vehicles with headlight range control, heed notes on sender removal and installation => Page 40-22
â—† Removing and installing
=> Page 40-139
â—† Servicing => Page 40-148
Self-locking nut, 100 Nm
â—† Note modified connecting links and tightening torques => Page 40-19
â—† Underside of nut is ribbed
â—† Always replace after removing
Make exclusive use of this special nut as replacement part
Hexagon bolt
â—† M8 x 25
â—† Tightening torques:
‒ Non-ribbed bolt: 30 Nm => Fig.3
‒ Ribbed bolt: 75 Nm => Fig.3
Subframe support
Self-locking nut
◆ 80 Nm + further 90° turn
â—† Always replace after removing
Self-locking nut
◆ 90 Nm + further 90° turn
â—† Always replace after removing
Multi-point socket head bolt
Tightening torques:
Bolt M8 x 48: 40 Nm
Bolt M10 x 48: 80 Nm
Packing plate
Drive shaft
â—† Removing and installing=>Page 40-27
â—† Servicing => Page 40-30
Drive shaft with triple roller joint
â—† Servicing => Page 40-47
Twelve-point hexagon socket-head bolt, 80 Nm
â—† For vehicles with triple roller joint
â—† M10 x 20
Hexagon bolt
â—† Note different bolt lengths
‒ With steel mounting bracket: M10 x 60
‒ With aluminium mounting bracket:
M10 x 62
â—† Always replace after removing
Mounting bracket
â—† Removing and installing
=> Page 40-125
â—† Aluminium mounting brackets were introduced as of MY 98
â—† Heed correspondingly amended wheel alignment specifications
=>Pages 44-23
â—† Combination of different types (aluminium/steel mounting brackets) is not permitted
Self-locking nut
◆ 50 Nm + further 90° turn
â—† Always replace after removing
Self-locking flange nut, 20 Nm
â—† Always replace after removing
Stop plates were introduced as end stops as of chassis number -8DTA 321 912- for vehicles with sports and heavy-duty running gear.
Note:
Stop plates are not to be removed.
→ Fig.1 Stop plates
A - Cap
B - Stop plate
C - Rear upper link
D - Body
Buffer stop was introduced as of Model Year '97 at rear upper links.
→ Fig.2 Buffer stop
A - Rear upper link with buffer stop
Note:
On replacing rear upper link, make sure vehicles with no stop plates are always fitted with new link.
Attention:
Vehicles with stop plates are still fitted with link with no buffer stop.
Stop plate is not to be removed.
→ Fig.3 Heed different tightening torques
Exclusive use has been made of ribbed bolts since Model Year '98. These bolts may also be used on older models.
‒ Non-ribbed bolt -A- (arrow)
Tightening torque: 30 Nm
‒ Ribbed bolt -B- (arrow)
Tightening torque: 75 Nm
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 12,826
From:
RE: Tie rod issues
rest of diagrams so you can put it together
[IMG]local://upfiles/12092/2292EE065E314A44B0049D3355A0C759.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/12092/1CA052B85FE14278A98AA77DF5574D4B.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/12092/06123D299A0343C888439691A7A9079D.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/12092/2292EE065E314A44B0049D3355A0C759.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/12092/1CA052B85FE14278A98AA77DF5574D4B.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/12092/06123D299A0343C888439691A7A9079D.jpg[/IMG]
Thread Starter
|
1st Gear
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 64
RE: Tie rod issues
I went and checked everything out. All the joints actually seem to be fine. I actually took the outer tie rod end off again trying to isolate the movement. I was able to move the inner tie rod about 2-3 mm in and out... So I'm positive that's my problem. I've been searching for inner tie rod replacement but can't seem to find any walkthroughs or anything pictures on it.
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 12,826
From:
RE: Tie rod issues
Steering box (left-hand drive)
Exploded view
Hexagon bolt, 68 Nm
Boot
â—† Check for cracks and abrasion
Eccentric bolt
â—† Torx T50
â—† Turn clockwise to slacken off
â—† Turn anti-clockwise to tension
Steering column
Self-locking hexagon nut, 30 Nm
â—† Always replace
Combi bolt, 7 Nm
â—† For adjusting toe-in curve
Bolt
Self-locking nut
â—† Always replace
â—† 42 Nm for steel wheel bearing housing
â—† 50 Nm for aluminium wheel bearing housing
Return hose
Expansion hose
Cheese-head bolt, 13 Nm
â—† Screw plug of steering centring
=> Fig.1
Power-assisted steering box with track rods
Banjo bolt, 40 Nm
â—† With integrated non-return valve
Sealing ring, 14 *20
â—† Always replace
Banjo bolt, 50 Nm
Sealing ring, 16 *22
â—† Always replace
Hexagon bolt, 35 Nm
Steering damper
â—† Only for:
‒ 6-cyl. models
‒ As of MY` 98 all 4-cyl. models as of 132 kW
Bushing
Rubber bush
â—† Two-piece
Hexagon nut, 10 Nm
â—† Provide support at hexagon of steering damper piston rod when slackening off and tightening
→ Fig.1 Screw plug of steering centring
1 - Screw plug of steering centring, 13 Nm
2 - Tapped hole in steering box
[IMG]local://upfiles/12092/299DF7459C81422F9ABD02BF08885BD5.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/12092/61D6676125654956A34EBBEAC5C88435.jpg[/IMG]
Exploded view
Hexagon bolt, 68 Nm
Boot
â—† Check for cracks and abrasion
Eccentric bolt
â—† Torx T50
â—† Turn clockwise to slacken off
â—† Turn anti-clockwise to tension
Steering column
Self-locking hexagon nut, 30 Nm
â—† Always replace
Combi bolt, 7 Nm
â—† For adjusting toe-in curve
Bolt
Self-locking nut
â—† Always replace
â—† 42 Nm for steel wheel bearing housing
â—† 50 Nm for aluminium wheel bearing housing
Return hose
Expansion hose
Cheese-head bolt, 13 Nm
â—† Screw plug of steering centring
=> Fig.1
Power-assisted steering box with track rods
Banjo bolt, 40 Nm
â—† With integrated non-return valve
Sealing ring, 14 *20
â—† Always replace
Banjo bolt, 50 Nm
Sealing ring, 16 *22
â—† Always replace
Hexagon bolt, 35 Nm
Steering damper
â—† Only for:
‒ 6-cyl. models
‒ As of MY` 98 all 4-cyl. models as of 132 kW
Bushing
Rubber bush
â—† Two-piece
Hexagon nut, 10 Nm
â—† Provide support at hexagon of steering damper piston rod when slackening off and tightening
→ Fig.1 Screw plug of steering centring
1 - Screw plug of steering centring, 13 Nm
2 - Tapped hole in steering box
[IMG]local://upfiles/12092/299DF7459C81422F9ABD02BF08885BD5.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/12092/61D6676125654956A34EBBEAC5C88435.jpg[/IMG]
Thread Starter
|
1st Gear
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 64
RE: Tie rod issues
Ok, so I've confirmed the play is coming from a ball joint that connects to what I'm guessing is the rack. I can't get back in there really well, but I'm going to take some pictures to show what I'm talking about. I can't really tell how it comes off from the technical diagrams.
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 12,826
From:
RE: Tie rod issues
not sure you can buy that part on its own but there is a cheat otherwise its a complete steering rack
note I have pointed the areas that need hammering in to re-compress the ball joint to eliminate movement ( not the best way but a quick fix )
[IMG]local://upfiles/12092/92F87E2CD3284DCA8340FDE3106885AC.jpg[/IMG]
note I have pointed the areas that need hammering in to re-compress the ball joint to eliminate movement ( not the best way but a quick fix )
[IMG]local://upfiles/12092/92F87E2CD3284DCA8340FDE3106885AC.jpg[/IMG]