TIMING BELT HELP!!!!
No, if the valves are bent, it wont affect the t-belt and tensioner or roller. if the valvesare bent, the engine basically will need rebuilt or replaced. But, from what you have said,I highly doubt this is the case. The noise you heard was the tensioner slapping around, as I said, mine did the same thing. Iactually drove the car about 20 miles with a broken tensioner, because at 2500 rpm and higher, the belt stayed tight and the car ran fine. (I did not know the tensioner was broke, or i would never have done this, but in the end it did not do any valve damage.)
Get a haynes or bently manual to make sure you get everything lined up right.
There is a timing mark on the cam and the engine block, and there is a mark on the crankshaft and the lower timing belt cover. These need to be lined up, and the car needs to be at top dead center when you line them up. The maunal will help. Its not hard to do, just take your time and follow instructions carefully.
Here's the write up I used, along with a haynes manual for 1996-2000 Audi a4.
http://www.audiworld.com/tech/eng35.shtml
Get a haynes or bently manual to make sure you get everything lined up right.
There is a timing mark on the cam and the engine block, and there is a mark on the crankshaft and the lower timing belt cover. These need to be lined up, and the car needs to be at top dead center when you line them up. The maunal will help. Its not hard to do, just take your time and follow instructions carefully.
Here's the write up I used, along with a haynes manual for 1996-2000 Audi a4.
http://www.audiworld.com/tech/eng35.shtml
thanks for the link. i've printed that out at one time but couldn't find it. The top cam mark is easy. The crank mark is in the lower cover(arrow) and one small tick on the pulley. I think I got it. I'll set TDC on compression and put humpty dumptyback together again......
thanks a bunch.
thanks a bunch.
A new tensioner and belt might cost $80. Id try that first and see how it runs-if at all. Youll know if the valves are bent or if serious damage was caused. If so, then pull the head and do what needs to be done and youll still have a good tensioner and belt.
Talked to the machine shop today. T-Hoff in Raleigh, NC. They do alot of these - Audi/VW specialists. The guy said he had a ton of Audi heads come thru. Recommended I take the head off so I did (a couple more hours at leisure). There is some slight valve damage. Could not see it from the angle of the intake when the head was on the car. Worst case $750-$900 which includes TB tensioners.
I'm taking her down tomorrow. Two day turn around (I hope, otherwise I'll forget where all these 1000 pieces went).
Thanks for all the input. I'll let everyone know how it went.
I'm taking her down tomorrow. Two day turn around (I hope, otherwise I'll forget where all these 1000 pieces went).
Thanks for all the input. I'll let everyone know how it went.
OOPS. All 20 valves were bent some more than others. T-Hoff in Raleigh,NCis rebuilding the head. The folks in the machine shop were really nice, informative and a pleasure to deal with.
Head bolt replacement has a poly-drive? socket head instead of a Torx. Has anyone ever heard of this type of bolt head tool?
Head bolt replacement has a poly-drive? socket head instead of a Torx. Has anyone ever heard of this type of bolt head tool?


