The green MAF wire is surrounded by shielding which is grounded. Did you reconnect the green wire and short it to the shielding? The shieldingis usuallymetal foil or wire braiding, which is grounded to the engine.
Were the sparkplugs you removed dirty, fouled with oil and carbon, or with the smell of fuel? Were the plug electrodes erroded? Did you check your ignition to see if you are getting a spark?
What is the mileage of you 1997 A6? You may have a high mileage engine with worn oil rings, valve stem seals, etc., whichcause fouling ofthe plugs.
Take one of the new plugs out to see if it is fouled with oil and carbon. If it is, the plugcan be cleaned off with a spray can of throttlebody cleaner and by scaping. A badly fouled engine is very hard to start in the winter. Don't forget to recharge the battery. If it starts, it must not be stopped until after the engine has heated up and been driven a certain distance.
I don't see how a diode could break the ecm, but if it did, then the dealers want about two thousand fora newecm, not including labor. You should use the Vag-Com cable with a laptop to see if it gives any code for the MAF sensor. It may be coincidence.
You need to clean the leaves out of the plennum in front of the windshield, by removing the plastic cover. Under the cover there is a drain that gets plugged with leaves, and allows water to rise until it enters through the fresh air vent. Once inside, it goes into the electronic control box, where the ecm gets zapped, because it is under the rug.
I just ran a wire from the ecm to the egr temperature sensor on a 1996 A6 2.8L AFC OBDII US, so you could always have a wiring problem, where a wire broke or shorted out. I took a short piece of brake line with edge ground smooth and pushed it into the grommet on the heater and airconditioning cable on the right side of the car in the plennum.The wire was inserted through the tube, and feed inside to just above the ecm.The tube was retracted from the grommet, then taken to the other end of the wire.The other end passes through a grommeted hole in the plennum firewall into the engine compartment to the egr temp sensor.
This car also had a bad head gasket on the right side, with broken alignment pins. The wire broke when doing the head gaskets. The trunk lock was broken when I bought the car, as was almost everything. The radiator fans were even incorrectly rewired to the ignition switch, and not throughthe fan relays. The fan relay wires were burnt. Audi hides the radiator fan fuse.
They e-mailed you the wrong instructions. The MAF is not an IAT on your Audi. You don't have a Toyota!
Were are you located. Perhaps the AAA could help you locate a mechanic in your area who could work with you. Perhaps someone in the audiforum lives in your area.

 

Newest version of software won't work on non-ross cables. Go to ross-tech.com .
Which auto store?

 

i downloaded the older vversion of vag com and it communicated with the cable and i got results for auto tranny and ac and whatnot.. but when i try to test the engine it pops up as cant process or whatever.. this shielded wire, i understand what you are saying, but what can i do to fix that..

so where is the ecu on my car?? anything i can check on that?? i found a stock ecu for my a6 on ebay for 120.. and i figure i can do it myself.. save myself the 1800..

the plugs were very black, and smelled weird, not really gas but smelled bad.. they had some problems. ill check the new plugs when i get home tonight.. i think the smell was perhaps the burnt started fluid??.. i think the problem is with the fuel injectors, cause it trys to start when starter fluid is sprayed down the intake so that means its getting air and spark but not fuel.. with the engine runningperfect before at only 118,000 miles i cant see how all of the sudden it would jsut stop running at all all of the sudden.. ill heck spark again when i get home but im pretty sure its still getting spark..

i live in bradenton florida..

 

Free Ross-tech software 311.2 is for opto coupled interfaces and 409 for new serial and usb connections.

Make sure you have the correct one.

 

Go to www.ross-tech.com Click on "Products", then on "VAG-COM", then on "Product Information". Then click on each of the following: "Function Chart", "Interfaces", and "Problems/Issues".
You need to borrow an OBDII scanner from one of your friends, as the shareware is very limited.
The black stuff on the sparkplug insulator conducts, thus causing poor ignition.A high mileage engine may get a lot of oilpast the worn oil rings, etc. Add too much fuel and the engine won't start.Just clean the carbon off the insulatorby scraping and flushing with a can of throttlebody cleaner for all plugs. Check that the fuel pump can be heard for about one second when turning ignitionswitch on, but not in the start position. Checkfor a spark by clamping a sparkplug to a metal part of the engine, which is visible from inside the car. You should see a spark every two revolutions of the crankshaft. You may have to repeat the plug cleaning after each failure to startwithin one minute. You may get better results with a fully charged battery, and by waiting about a day between each attempt for the fuel todissipate.
If this doesn't work after three tries, then check the resistance on thesparkplugwires and ignition coil windings with an ohm meter.
Also, try to do the cheapest solutions, before the expensive ones, such as the ecm. Always test a component when possible. Always test the wiringbetween the ecm and the sensor.

 

allright, sounds like some good stuff up there.. i get everything besides the last part, as for checking the wiring, what am i checking for?? voltage?? if so which wire do i wanna test??

also may be a dumb question, i couldnt seem to get a clear answer on where the ecm is on the car??

 

i dont really have any friends at the moment that i can borrow an OBDII scanner from.. Im not sure how much more i can take of waiting for this, i need to get this car running probably within the next week if possible.. Should i just order a new ECM and see if that does it?? ive gone over all the wiring from the mass air flow sensor and it seems to be fine.. i know that its not getting fuel, all i get is some funky smell off of the new sparkplugs and out of the exhaust, along with a little smoke out of the exhaust, which im guessing is oil but who knows?? i really dont understand, when i was testing the module to see if it worked or not i just did a twistt the wires together thing and for some reason i decided to cut all three... after the test run and no change in performance the red with brown and the green with black were awfully close when i got back and could have possibly touched.. would this short something out?? i tried to follow all the wires but they just go into a mass wire cover tube thing (wow lol) and go into the firewall..

I think i need to get a wiring diagram for this thing and just see where all these wires connect.. all my fuses and relays are good so i dont see any of that being a problem..

im gonna try to reset the ecm again over night and try it again tomrrow when i get home..

im at the point now where i will just order whatever i have to.. im pretty much tired of waiting.. id rather try to borrow an obdII or just find out the problem another way rather than pay upwards of 250 just to diagnose it.. thats not really worth it for me..

any ideas let me know

 

[ul][*]2111 (Blink Fault Code), 00513 VAG1551/2 Fault Code Number
RPM sensor (G28)
Open or short circuit, sensor malfunction
Defective sensor & cables, metal fragments on flywheel teeth
Symptom: Engine will not start, misfires, may stop running
NOTE: I have seen this fault code occur after cranking the engine during a no start condition
in a few rare cases where there was nothing wrong with the RPM sensor[*]2112 (Blink Fault Code), 00514 VAG1551/2 Fault Code Number
Timing reference sensor, (G4) (located 62 degrees BTDC)
Sensor malfunction, Flywheel pin damaged/missing, Mis-located Sensor,
distance to flywheel pin greater than 1.2mm (3/64 inch), wiring shielding problem for G4,
hall sensor out of adjustment (3B and early AAN engines only)
Symptom: Engine will not start, possible low power
NOTE: I have seen this fault code occur after cranking the engine during a no start condition
in a few rare cases where there was nothing wrong with the Reference sensor or flywheel pin[/ul]found those online.. both sound like possibilities??

i dont know lol.. im just gonna be looking for a while and see what i come up with.. so i will probably have a bunch of little things on here that i will post as i find them..

 

http://mustangforums.com/m_4672123/tm.htm

while that is a mustang, it seems exactly to be my situation.. and the last conclusion is burned ecm..

ill do whatever it takes to fix it myself but let me know if that seems on track or not?? ^^

 

http://forums.automotive.com/70/6501...art/index.html

there we go, maybe when i noticed the chip didnt do anything i just pulled it off without disconnecting the battery.. so it seems like its pretty clear that the ecm is blown, but ill wait for you guys to respond before i order the new one..