I've read a lot of these posts already but still can't find a fix. Battery died a couple days ago, push jumped it and now everything seemed A OK. Just drove it like 200 miles, with no issues. Parked it for a while, came back, fired it up to get smokes, parked it again and now she won't start. I tried to push jump it again, no luck. Checked water level in battery, also checked the fuel pump and it sounds like its coming on/working. I can smell gas coming from the engine, so I believe its getting fuel. I did notice that when I turn the key on I get the normal 'push your clutch in' message but doesn't ever switch to 'OK' right before I try to fire it up. I pulled the coolant temp sensor and replaced it b/c it was pretty banged up. I also pulled off three vacuum lines off the top of the engine that were holed out. Will replace them today. Also on my list today: Check for spark on my plug wires and examine the clutch pedal a little more thoroughly. Though I am not really sure what I am looking for there. Any help is appreciated, I am stuck 200 miles from home until I figure it out.

 

Got the new vacuum lines in, nothing. I can't figure out the clutch

 

Check spark first (with fuel and spark, entirely different troubleshooting path).
If no spark (and manual tranny): the clutch pedal switch cuts the starter, not sure if it cuts spark?
2000 2.7T APB still has the 2x ICM and old coil packs. ICM can fail, but normally results in misfires first.
I have replaced bad crank sensor (engine speed sensor). The bad sensor allowed the car to run (spark uses cam sensors when running), but NOT for starting (ECU looks for crank sensor for timing during crank/start, then switches to cam sensors).

A bit bitchy to get to (only one 10mm hex bolt IIRC), but I have done it with jack on the side of the road.

Obviously: with VAGcom, see if you get any rpm signal when cranking; would be an indication for bad crank sensor.

 

Well its been a fun few days. The fuel pump is working and verified getting fuel at least as far as the fuel rails. No spark on the plug wires. Will be replacing the clutch pedal position switch prob tomorrow, the neutral safety switch behind the clutch pedal I pulled and jumped the wires together. Does anybody know anything about 2 metal looking fuses located behind all the relays in the dashboard? Im trying to trace ed the problem back from the plug wires. I am guessing that its fairly rare for the (ignition control?)modules on the airbox to both go out at the same time? I am still researching what is beyond that but iam afraid that this may be leading back to the timing belt except I would still get spark km if the timing is off wouldnt I?

 

Oh yea I did pull crank sensor but without knowing how to tell for sure if its bad or not I put it back in. Anybody know a way to test all these **** sensors that audi has planted all over

 

Test sensors: VAgcom.
If you don't get a realistic value in the respective measuring block, replace the sensor.

 

Ok finally got a reader on it yesterday from auto enginuity. Pulled DTC codes p1338 and p1391. The dreaded CPS faults. Near as I can tell the originated from the same sensor so ima swap them and pray the problem follows the sensor. If not timing is off and iam screwed.

 

Btw I was checking spark incorrectly. Someone around here said to just pull the wire off the coil pack and ground it. I pulled coil pack and plug, grounded and have spark

 

So just to follow up in case this helps anybody else. I pulled the camshaft sensor that I was getting the dtc on and swapped it with the other one. Unfortunately the trouble code didnt follow the sensor. So that means that I have a timing issue. But the engine should at least start and run rough, so what most likely happened os that when the belt slipped a piston shot up and bent some valves. Needless to say iam now in the market for an engine.

 

Autozone, compression test tool. Take plugs out. 7 revolutions. Take readings.
This will show you bent valves.