2001 A6 2.7 L - Oil Change Question
#12
03-05-2009, 01:46 PM
The reason I asked is that when I changed the oil in my 2.8 L V6 (12V) only 4 3/4 quarts sufficed. The car doesn't lose any oil, and after 500 miles or so the proper level confirms the quantity.
In an earlier post, Bob mentioned the 7.5 quarts capacity of the 2.7L. That's 2.5 more quarts (1/3 more) than the required or satisfactory quantity for my 2.8L.
Thanks, Nemohm.
P.S. I hope that "5V" doesnt stand for "5 valves", does it? It would make no sense for a V6 or a V8 engine...
In an earlier post, Bob mentioned the 7.5 quarts capacity of the 2.7L. That's 2.5 more quarts (1/3 more) than the required or satisfactory quantity for my 2.8L.
Thanks, Nemohm.
P.S. I hope that "5V" doesnt stand for "5 valves", does it? It would make no sense for a V6 or a V8 engine...
#13
03-09-2009, 11:23 AM
If I may, I'm due for my first oil change as an Audi owner on a 110k, 01 A6 2.7L. I've always changed my own oil on other vehicles. A couple of questions...
1. On a scale of 1-10, how difficult is changing the oil on these versus other cars you may have done.
2. I'm sold on full synthetic (I use Mobil 1), but what weight would you guys recommend for a 110k mileage bi-turbo car? Would a thinner weight be advisable if it's higher mileage? I was told that oil clogging and not getting to the turbos on higher mileage vehicles can be a culprit to turbo failure... don't know if that's true or not.
3. Can you get these Mann filters at any auto parts store or only Audi dealerships?
I'm keen to do these my self rather than $79 at the local Audi dealership, but if it's a royal pain, I'll divy it out.
Thanks in advance to anyone that's willing to help.
1. On a scale of 1-10, how difficult is changing the oil on these versus other cars you may have done.
2. I'm sold on full synthetic (I use Mobil 1), but what weight would you guys recommend for a 110k mileage bi-turbo car? Would a thinner weight be advisable if it's higher mileage? I was told that oil clogging and not getting to the turbos on higher mileage vehicles can be a culprit to turbo failure... don't know if that's true or not.
3. Can you get these Mann filters at any auto parts store or only Audi dealerships?
I'm keen to do these my self rather than $79 at the local Audi dealership, but if it's a royal pain, I'll divy it out.
Thanks in advance to anyone that's willing to help.
#14
03-09-2009, 11:33 AM
If your dealer is charging $75 for an oil change, then it maybe worth it. Mine charges about $100.
Anyways, here are answers to your questions.
1. Compared to other cars, there is no difference other than the fact that you have to drop the belly pan. Another 5 minutes.
2. Syntherics is good. Factory recommends 5w-40. I have been using castrol 5w-50. If you live in warm area 10w-40 works, if you live in cold area 5w-30 can be good. All depends, but pretty much anything around that range would work.
3. If your local shop is good, then you should be able to get Mann filter. or order it from the internet. I personally use Bosch or Wix filters. They have been working out okay.
Anyways, here are answers to your questions.
1. Compared to other cars, there is no difference other than the fact that you have to drop the belly pan. Another 5 minutes.
2. Syntherics is good. Factory recommends 5w-40. I have been using castrol 5w-50. If you live in warm area 10w-40 works, if you live in cold area 5w-30 can be good. All depends, but pretty much anything around that range would work.
3. If your local shop is good, then you should be able to get Mann filter. or order it from the internet. I personally use Bosch or Wix filters. They have been working out okay.
Last edited by hxgaser; 03-09-2009 at 11:36 AM.
#15
03-09-2009, 11:58 AM
If your dealer is charging $75 for an oil change, then it maybe worth it. Mine charges about $100.
Anyways, here are answers to your questions.
1. Compared to other cars, there is no difference other than the fact that you have to drop the belly pan. Another 5 minutes.
2. Syntherics is good. Factory recommends 5w-40. I have been using castrol 5w-50. If you live in warm area 10w-40 works, if you live in cold area 5w-30 can be good. All depends, but pretty much anything around that range would work.
3. If your local shop is good, then you should be able to get Mann filter. or order it from the internet. I personally use Bosch or Wix filters. They have been working out okay.
Anyways, here are answers to your questions.
1. Compared to other cars, there is no difference other than the fact that you have to drop the belly pan. Another 5 minutes.
2. Syntherics is good. Factory recommends 5w-40. I have been using castrol 5w-50. If you live in warm area 10w-40 works, if you live in cold area 5w-30 can be good. All depends, but pretty much anything around that range would work.
3. If your local shop is good, then you should be able to get Mann filter. or order it from the internet. I personally use Bosch or Wix filters. They have been working out okay.
#16
03-09-2009, 12:26 PM
PS - found this site. germanfilters.com Looks like pretty good prices. Just ordered a 4 pack of oil filters, spare plus and some air filters for not to bad a price (compared to what I thought I'd pay).
#17
03-09-2009, 12:58 PM
I am not an oil expert by any means, but here is what I know about the 0W stuff. Cars these days are getting so sophisticated with smaller and smaller manufacturing tolerances. Newer engines have very small and tight tolerances where really free flowing oil is required to lubricate those parts. That is where the 0W stuff comes in. If you see the 0W oil, it really flows like water, not oil.
Old school thinking is that heavier the oil, more protection it provides. I wouldn't use 0W oil on cars that was not designed for it. With higher mileage cars, you tend to want to use something heavier than the original spec stuff anyways. Idea is that you get the heaviest weight oil which is still thin enough to flow in your engine at temperature range you drive in.
Old school thinking is that heavier the oil, more protection it provides. I wouldn't use 0W oil on cars that was not designed for it. With higher mileage cars, you tend to want to use something heavier than the original spec stuff anyways. Idea is that you get the heaviest weight oil which is still thin enough to flow in your engine at temperature range you drive in.
#20
03-24-2009, 02:05 PM
Old school thinking is that heavier the oil, more protection it provides... ...With higher mileage cars, you tend to want to use something heavier than the original spec stuff anyways. Idea is that you get the heaviest weight oil which is still thin enough to flow in your engine at temperature range you drive in.
I have a 2.7T (which I'm told is better to run a lighter oil to allow the best possible flow of oil through the turbo sieves (not my terminology)), yet since it's higher mileage one could argue a heavier-than-spec weight necessary from high mileage wear. So do those 2 factors just average back out to the factory spec of 5w-40? Sub-question, I can get screaming deals on Mobil1 Synthetic 5w-30 and 10w-40 (under $30 a case), considering my factors... turbo, high mileage, fairly cold winter climate... will either of those suffice?