I have owned my car for a few months now. I have noticed some problems. I have no idea if they are common. When I'm driving down the road, a small bump/crack makes my driver side wheel bounce. I'm not talking about a high bounce. More like a vibe.

Also, my passenger side front brake squeals after the car warms up. (about 15/20 mins after driving). I replaced them a week after I got the car. It is LOUD. There is also a smell that comes through my car. Burning rubber. Like I just powered braked the hell out of it. I know I need a four-wheel alignment. Could the smell be from my calipers sticking?

Also, this has happened like 3 maybe 4 times. I started pressing my brakes, and it kinda felt like there was a big rock stuck in the brake grinding against the rotor. Or like I was sliding in gravel but I know I was not. I could hear and feel it. Rotor is smooth

When I bought the car they were ordering the (Not sure of all the names) the pigtail that goes to the temperature sensor. Audi (Austin where I bought the car) sent the wrong one and it didn't fit. We called Auto Zone and they sent the same one Audi sent. Wrong one. I called Audi in Dallas. I asked for the part number. They gave me 059919501A. It is a 4 pin connector. Know were I can get one?

One more thing... I am not use to having turbos. I read that you need to let the car warm up a little before you drive it. Sometimes I have to go in a hurry. They sound different JUST in the morning. I'm thinking that is normal though. I only drive 10 blocks there, wait about 5 mins for the bus, then 10 blocks back. Never going over 30 MPH. Is that bad?

The car has 121K miles.

Thanks for all the help you can give. I don't know much about cars. So please try and "dumb" it down for me, haha.

 

Sorry.... Bump

 

ok lets see....
wheel bounce could be ball joint or control arms among other things but start there.

Brake squeal is anoying but not always detrimental. Brake dust cleaner on the rotor could make it squeal. Listen for grinding. Check to make sure the pad sensors are conected because you should have a warning message on the dash when pads are worn.

Take your tire off and do a simple visual. See if there is something in there.

As far as the part i would try a dif dealer and check the fitting before you leave.

Letting the car warm up is a fine idea! you can drive it though while this is happening. Just dont run it hard until your temps are up. It would be good for the whole system to get the car over 30 now and then to blow out carbon build up. The turbos are at the point when you can start to see failure. It is more important to let the turbos idle down for a few after a hard run. Use synthetic oil and change it on time. The oil feed lines on that year had some problems when they didnt get the right maintenance. These are tough cars to buy at higher mileage unless you know the history and that is was taken care of. Did you do the water pump / timing belt yet?

 

I was thinking ball joint too.

When the hubby changed the brakes, he didnt grease them. Could that be the smell and the noise?

Midas is the one that was calling in the parts and having them shipped. I bought the car the day they had the first one shipped. It was the wrong one. I live in Waco. He said come back in a week and he would have the right one. Audi sent the same one they sent the first time. (my sister lives up there and the part was free) We were waiting for 6 hours (with 2 kids). We gave them the idea to call auto Zone. Then they had a guy drive out with the part, same one. I'm just looking for someone with the part or a store, or an online store that knows something about Audi.

I have not did anything with the water pump/ timing belt. I didn't want to buy it with the high mileage with out the timing belt not being replaced. I drove it and fell in love and had to have it. Plus, it was a really good price (I think).

Thank you

 

When you press the brakes, is there any pulsing? That could be a symptom of a warped rotor. If you're running original rotors and just replaced the brakepads without at least turning them, they could be warped. I had my brakes done around 40k miles under warranty and then again at 101k. The second time I replaced the rear rotors and had the fronts turned (turning them is a no-no according to some forum members). But I'm now at 137k with no problems.

Timing belt (TB) is critical and should have been done around 80-90k miles. You need to find out if it was done. If the belt is original and snaps or slips, you will ruin your engine.

I let mine A6 warm up for a minute before driving (unless is it below zero), and just take it easy until it reaches operating temperature. It would be a good idea to take it out on the TX backroads and open it up to 70-90 once in a while to heat it up and "blow out the carbon". (But get that bouncing tire fixed first.) Those short 10 block trips are tough on any car because they do not heat up the oil enough to vaporize any condensation.

 

Just thought of something. You could just have a bad shock on the corner that bounces. Check for fluid leaking. Also, press down hard on that corner of the car -- it should just rise back up and not bounce. If it bounces, it could be the shock is warn.