2006 Audi A6 S Line Front Brakes
#1
2006 Audi A6 S Line Front Brakes
I want to change the front brake pads on the car, but I cannot find any online tutorials. Are the calipers removed by removing the 4 torx bolds on the inside of the caliper? Everything I am seeing online so far does not show the same config of what is on my car. Thanks Thanks Thanks
#2
If memory serves me correct, there are two torx bolts that secure the caliper to the rest of the car, and then two torx bolts that secure the caliper bracket to the rest of the caliper.
If you're doing a pad slap (Pads only, not rotors) then in theory you should be able to loosen the two that secure the bracket to the caliper and take the olds pads out and put the new ones in. BUT... You may (And by may, I mean probably) have to push the pistons back in to make room for the new pads, so therefore it's better that you unmount the entire caliper, or remove the rotor to allow access to the pistons. Whichever you prefer.
It's not a bad job. Once you see how the system works you will realize that it is fairly straight forward task. Just take your time and don't cut corners. If you respect the car and its parts and pay attention to detail you should be home free.
If you're doing a pad slap (Pads only, not rotors) then in theory you should be able to loosen the two that secure the bracket to the caliper and take the olds pads out and put the new ones in. BUT... You may (And by may, I mean probably) have to push the pistons back in to make room for the new pads, so therefore it's better that you unmount the entire caliper, or remove the rotor to allow access to the pistons. Whichever you prefer.
It's not a bad job. Once you see how the system works you will realize that it is fairly straight forward task. Just take your time and don't cut corners. If you respect the car and its parts and pay attention to detail you should be home free.
#3
These torx bolts seem to be mounted super tight. I cannot break them loose. On the rears, manufacturer used standard bolts and the job was pretty easy.
Might as well ask, but do they tighten or loosen differently than other bolts? like clockwise? Thanks.
Might as well ask, but do they tighten or loosen differently than other bolts? like clockwise? Thanks.
#4
No, they are standard threads as far as I know.
Are you using a breaker bar to get the job done? With the initial torque applied to the bolts along with the rust and abuse that they see from the road, you will need probably over 100 pound feet of torque to break them free. I can't imagine getting them off with a regular 6 inch ratchet.
Are you using a breaker bar to get the job done? With the initial torque applied to the bolts along with the rust and abuse that they see from the road, you will need probably over 100 pound feet of torque to break them free. I can't imagine getting them off with a regular 6 inch ratchet.
#5
I used this video and it was helpful, they did leave out the 2 21mm bolts that hold the caliper brackets on there though.
Also, the caliper bolts are 7mm allen, not torx.
I just did my brakes yesterday on my 2007 A6 4.2, and I am pretty sure the fronts were original. With all 4 bolts (2 caliper, 2 bracket) I had to get a dead blow hammer and just persuade the wrench to break the bolt loose. It took a fair amount of force. Once I did get the caliper bolts loose, I thought they would come out enough to where I could grab them, but the pads were so low that they were all the way out and I couldn't get them, so I would recommend breaking them loose enough where you can turn freely, but then removing the caliper bracket entirely and continuing on from there.
If you are doing rotors too, you will need to buy new rotor screws, I had to drill mine out. The rotor will be stuck to the hub, but a fair amount of persuasion with the dead blow will get it off of there.
Also, the caliper bolts are 7mm allen, not torx.
I just did my brakes yesterday on my 2007 A6 4.2, and I am pretty sure the fronts were original. With all 4 bolts (2 caliper, 2 bracket) I had to get a dead blow hammer and just persuade the wrench to break the bolt loose. It took a fair amount of force. Once I did get the caliper bolts loose, I thought they would come out enough to where I could grab them, but the pads were so low that they were all the way out and I couldn't get them, so I would recommend breaking them loose enough where you can turn freely, but then removing the caliper bracket entirely and continuing on from there.
If you are doing rotors too, you will need to buy new rotor screws, I had to drill mine out. The rotor will be stuck to the hub, but a fair amount of persuasion with the dead blow will get it off of there.
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