Damn, I had to Google the dude.
Never watched that show. "Reality" shows are not my cup of tea. One thing is sure, though: I'll never bake again automotive parts INSIDE THE HOUSE

 

Okay, we're getting playful here which always helps! I was a bit embarrassed to confess that I let that belt go far too long, but I did. . . got away from me. The miles piled on and time passed and, wham, I'm instantly into a job that could have been avoided or, more accurately, greatly reduced in work load and cost. Live and learn. . . Chefro, thanks for your clarification and it makes perfect sense. I've also read around this Forum about the little red lights going out on various circuit board display modules, which this car has experienced. I've tried to install new ones on the boards but my soldering skills, for some reason, are not up to the task, so I'll likely send these units off to Module Masters. I'm definitely going to migrate over to these various parts vendors to check out their prices and availability, especially that Bentley Manual for $76.00- best price I've read about so for. . .
Thanks again and stand by. . .bad/injured lower back healing up before I start bending over into the A6 engine compartment!

 

Hey Gang,
As I stage further for this top-end teardown, I'm wondering further about necessary tools. For example, any of you out there have a valve spring compressor that you like/prefer? I went on ebay looking for one and found socres of them in various sizes. Hard to judge which is the best size/brand so I welcome any thoughts you may have in this regard. . .
Also, a couple of you responded to another person's inquiry about replacing his timing belt and asking about additional tools. Somebody metioned ball-end allen head sockets and also a set of Torx head sockets, all apparently available at Harbor Freight & Tool. Is this accurate?
Thanks,
Marblehead

 

Sometime during 1996, Audi changed from aluminum valve covers to plastic ones. Hence, when you order the valve cover gaskets you need to look closely at your VIN number. Also, don't put the plastic valve covers in the oven!
The Bentley CD lists tool numbers, which you may then find picture of online. Most local auto stores will not have these special tools. There are some generic tools which may be modified.

 

About the Allen socket bits, I give you an example:


That's the engine drain plug. Although I was able in the end to remove it with the regular Allen wrench (yeah, I'm a stubborn sob), believe me when I say you'll make your job much easier with a socket bit.
The plug is deeply recessed into the engine block, so there's no way you can use the L-shape end of the regular wrench (to have a good grip on the long section), as being too short. You have to use something else in conjunction with it to be able to remove it. The higher you have the car over your head, the better is. I didn't have much room over my head, so it was a struggle with the regular Allen wrench.
Buy a socket bit set (even WalMart carries it). You'll say thank you God when you need to remove the crankshaft pulley (8 bolts torqued hard as hell). I was "lucky" I had to take the crankshaft bolt off, otherwise I wouldn't have been able to remove those pulley bolts with a regular Allen.

Related to changing the timing belt itself, in all the honesty everything is pretty much Allen/Hex...as far as I remember.
However, if you'll keep doing DIY work on this car, then you should purchase a good set of Torx socket bits.

 

Thank you both, again, for your input. Man, Chefro, you really did take some fastidious and detailed photos of your teardown. I've got to get over to your link and check it all out and then, somehow, try to do as good a job as you of recording it all! Thanks, again, for your time and trouble. Oh, by the by, what size range of Torx Sockets might you recommend?
Steve

 

I bought my set at WalMart, since it was cheaper than anywhere else. Plus, it is Stanley brand with Lifetime warranty. They do make pretty sturdy, long-lasting tools as far as I can tell from using various of them over the years. They replace them if they fail, too.

Is an 11-piece set;
Small range (1/4 drive): T8, T10, T15, T20, T25, T27
Larger range (3/8 drive): T30, T40, T45, T50, T55

Well, I don't know if are any differences between the '95 2.8 standard and the '96 2.8 Quattro engines, but from skimming that "Valley Pan Gasket; Head Gaskets" thread you can surely get a pretty good idea what you'll look at when you start the job.

 

The 1996 A6 Quattro has the 2.8L AFC engine. Some of the 1995 2.8L engines were AFC, but not all. The 1996 AFC engine is OBDII. The 1995 AFC engine may be OBDI.

 

Thank you all, especially you Chefro, for all you priceless input. When this thing busted, my bride and I were about to fly out of Denver to SoCal. It went down within eyesight of the airpot and we sat there strategizing on how to make our flight but also address the immediate needs of the Audi. Had AAA tow it to a local Front Range dealer while he graciously took us to our flight. Got a call that later day to discover that it was, in fact, the timing belt, that they want at least $800.00 to even begin to determine the extent of the damage from the break. Apparently, it is the only or preferred manner in which to make that determination. Then, if it turns out to be what in fact it was, bent valves, the closest estimate I could get them to commit to was at least $4,000.00!!!!!! That's got to be why one doesn't find a lot of interference motor repair information out there- UNTIL I landed on this wonderful Forum with all you Audi Repair Champions out there. Geeze, I wonder if a guy could pick up a shade tree/cottage business buying up these commercially and fatally broken motors and redo them for a profit? Of course, perhaps not as many folks neglect this crucial maintenance component of these interference egines! Well, it's going to be a couple of weeks, probably, before I rip into this so stand by and I am, to be sure, staging for it. Chefro, I think I'm going to memorize your numerous threads tracking your progress and dialogue with the rest of the gang out there!
Thanks again to all and I'll keep in touch and end up being some kind of an authority on this as well, recording heavily the entire process.
Steve

 

Hey Gang,
Well, I had to wait for the winter weather to get real lousy before I tore into the R&R of the cylinder heads on our beloved A6. I'm ready to do just that now and am stalled at the cylinder headbolt removal. Okay, what's the magic tool/extension I need to remove those bolts? I've searched on-line and see both a "double hex" and a "poly" in 12mm. I've placed (and only placed!) a metric 10mm allen socket in the cap and it fits within the points but, of course, will not use that to remove the bolts as I'm very sure it would round off the points on the bolt head. So, can anyone help out there with advise as to what the tool's called and where I can purchase one? Having done a compression check earlier this summer, I know that 3 of the 6 cylinders are without compression so I'm assuming that those are where I'm going to find the bent valves. While off, I'm having the heads rebuilt by a reputable shop in SoCal and he can supply me with the necessary gasket set for re-installation. Also, I had the misfortune of breaking one of the tiny little green plastic vacuum hoses that runs from the MAS unit, under the intake manifold, to the ignition system on the front of the engine. Any ideas, besides the Audi dealership, where I can obtain a replacement one? Of the two green vacuum lines, it is the lime green color. . .