I have looked on the timing belt covers and the sprockets. I cannot find the marks to align the camshafts with the crankshaft. If anyone could help me I would appreciate it VERY much...I need my car in a few hours!









P.S. I put the two black marks on each camshaft gear to run horizontal...these aren't "official" marks

 

https://www.audiforums.com/forum/sho...0&postcount=19

When your Cylinder # 3 is @ TDC and, at the same time, the arrow on the crank cover corresponds with the mark on the crank pulley that's when you know you got your timing "marks" right.
Make your own marks for the future if you don't have any on your cam sprockets.
-

-

-
Good Luck

 

Thank you for the response...would you be able to explain how I am supposed to get the camshafts in time with the crank shaft? I have my marks but I believe my old belt jumped a tooth or two and I would like to verify proper alignment. I was getting misfire codes on cylinders 4, 5, and 6...should I just put the gears back to my marks and adjust the appropriate camshaft by a tooth or two and just hand crank the motor and listen to it for bad noises?

 

I just read that the large holes on the lobes of the camshaft gears are supposed to face each other when cylinder 3 is at TDC...can someone please just confirm this so I don't blow my engine up please. Thank you. This is my first timing job...sorry for all the newbie questions.

 

yes as u see in the picture the big holes are both facing inwards (facing eachother)

 

You need a crank lock pin and a cam lock bar. Now that you pulled your pulley out before aligning the crank and locking it in place, you need to get it on TDC with no. 1 cylinder at the top most position. I really recommend that you get proper tools to do the timing belt. Without that you are asking for timing related code.

 

Thank you for the helpful picture. It is exactly as I had pictured in my head.

I am inclined to disagree with you hxgaser...It is no issue to put the pulley back on (as it only goes on one way) and match up my marks (with the belt back on of course). Anyway I already have my marks as a reference point and I think I am going to try to just move the cam responsible for cylinders 4,5, and 6, 2 teeth to match it up with my good running cam. That way I don't have to even goto TDC...I don't see much need for the cam locking bar either, I'm not having too much trouble adjusting the cams as necessary.

I would like to thank everyone for the help. I am gonna have a go at it and hopefully things work out.

 

You are right on the crank pulley. My mistake... But to do the timing belt correctly, you need to loosen the cam gears and pre-tension the timing belt so that you have even tension all along the timing belt. Yes you can hypothetically align the cam marks, but I seen numerous people getting timing related code after not tensioning the belt properly. You take your chance if you want, but I really recommend that you at least rent the cam lock bar and do it correctly. You can rent everything from Blauparts.

 

Your alternative to the cam lock bar is to VERY CAREFULLY align the flats on the cams DEAD VERTICAL and PARALLEL to each other. The cam lock bar is MUCH BETTER.

 

I bet you already bent a valve......

Your supposed to break the cam sprockets loose before removing the belt. Now your cams have snapped out of place to where they can rest with the least resistance. If that happens to be against a piston then goodbye valves.

The cam bar does more than just align the cams perfectly, it keeps time, its how you check timing when your done. You can eye it if you want but i'll bet you still get a tooth maybe two off... And you have no way to check it.