A6 2.7T Brake bleeding and ESP
I just changed front and back pads and rotors on 2002 2.7T - even though I bled the brakes, the pedal is very, very spongey - I read a response here that said that is usual (scarey)- but I also read bleedinginstructions elsewhere that said the ESP had to be reset by VAG.COM
Any advice?
Any advice?
At the shop we use a pressure bleeder and you really don't have to use the scan tool for any thing, however you have to bleed them in the correct sequence. On an 02 A6 it should be the left front, right front, left rear, then the right rear, if it wasn't done in that order you should bleed them again the way i said and see if it helps. The pedal should never feel spongy after bleeding the system.
Sounds like you have air in the lines or you did not tighten the bleeder screws enough.
Buy a bleeder or bleed them old school (pumping the pedal). The specs say that 500 ml (~1/2 quart) should be flushed through each line. Also make sure that you get as much of the old fluid out of the fluid resevoire and start with new brake fluid. Don't try to recycle the old fluid...
Make sure that the fluid is always topped off while bleeding - if you let it run too low, you will just introduce air into the system.
If you still have spongey pedals after a thorough bleed proceedure, check your master and slave cyclinders and lines for leaks.
Buy a bleeder or bleed them old school (pumping the pedal). The specs say that 500 ml (~1/2 quart) should be flushed through each line. Also make sure that you get as much of the old fluid out of the fluid resevoire and start with new brake fluid. Don't try to recycle the old fluid...
Make sure that the fluid is always topped off while bleeding - if you let it run too low, you will just introduce air into the system.
If you still have spongey pedals after a thorough bleed proceedure, check your master and slave cyclinders and lines for leaks.
Sorry to revive an old thread. Just did a full brake job (rotors + pads + cleaning pad-caliper contact points, and lubricating guide pins) on my automatic 2005 allroad this weekend, using a Motive brake bleeder. Im not satisfied with pedal feal, and would like firmer pedal.
I bled the brakes 1 week prior to the full brake job, and after the brake job this week-end, using traditional method both times.
Bentley manual says to use the RF, LF, RR, LR bleeding sequence, brake pedal depressed, and 29PSI.
I used the traditional method (RR, LR, RF, LF), with 15 PSI the first time, and 25 PSI the second time. Never ran out of liquid.
The second time, I let almost a liter of fluid pass through system. Used 25 PSI , Noticed very few air bubbles at first, but let the bleeding go for about 2 minutes per wheel.
Also bedded my brakes after bleeding. I have more stopping power now, but still looking for firmer pedal.
I don’t own a Roos-Tech VCDS tool yet, but maybe I should go and engage ABS a few times on a slippery parking lot, then bleed again .
Any comments to help firm up the pedal? Should I trust the Bentley manual bleeding sequence?
I bled the brakes 1 week prior to the full brake job, and after the brake job this week-end, using traditional method both times.
Bentley manual says to use the RF, LF, RR, LR bleeding sequence, brake pedal depressed, and 29PSI.
I used the traditional method (RR, LR, RF, LF), with 15 PSI the first time, and 25 PSI the second time. Never ran out of liquid.
The second time, I let almost a liter of fluid pass through system. Used 25 PSI , Noticed very few air bubbles at first, but let the bleeding go for about 2 minutes per wheel.
Also bedded my brakes after bleeding. I have more stopping power now, but still looking for firmer pedal.
I don’t own a Roos-Tech VCDS tool yet, but maybe I should go and engage ABS a few times on a slippery parking lot, then bleed again .
Any comments to help firm up the pedal? Should I trust the Bentley manual bleeding sequence?
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