You don't need to replace the entire axle. You can replace the CV joint itself without replacing the whole thing. The repair kit including the CV joint, boot and related accessories for about $100. Also I just noticed that ECStuning is selling the entire axle assembly for $125. Can't beat that.

 

Labor -1.5h
Kit price- $22

Good German boot is JKN by LOBRO

Time ago Auditech79 stated that Audi cv joints are very robust and very hard to fail.

One could drive with torn cv boot given there is not much of a water, dust or salt on the road.

I'll replace my front left outer cv boot sometime this week.

There are 3 options I consider:

1. Following service manual - opening the pinch bolt for the top control arms => non-advisable procedure.

2. Opening the lower ball joints
2.1. replacing the boot on the car
2.2. pulling the shaft complete from the car

3. Opening the inner end of the shaft and pulling the shaft w/o opening any ball joins?

Is the later possible?

 

A comment on the tightener specs from the DIY material:

Looks to me that the described tightening procedure is no longer supported-

a strait torque value of 190 NM is specified in the service manuals.

An addition - it's not uncommon to have situation where the pinch bolt is welding-type seized.
Nothing but complete drilling the bolt is the way to get it out.

 

I've heard some people say they can do #3 but I believe they have to put the shaft into a bind and use a hammer to get it in and out. I always pull the ball joints - but then I have the tools and enjoy seeing suspension parts dangling.

 

Is performing a front alignment a "must do" after replacing any or both side boots, joints, or the whole axle (provided it has to come out of the wheel hub)?


On a different note,
could new flange bolts (the six 12-point ones) be found separately at part stores?
I came across the axle bolts, only.
Thanks.

 

Hi Guys,
Something to share with you and to seek advice:
These refurbished axles available in open market and these websites for the price of $50-150 are not considered reliable by many mechanics. The shop that recomended me refurbished is insisting that its reliable and has one year part warrenty and that I should have it replaced and give them my origional since its useless. Whereas the other shop is not even willing to buy one for me and says if I don't hear any sound during sharp turns then there is no need to replace the genuine axle especially with a refurbished one. Their argument is why buy someone else's headache? What if it starts giving trouble after a few 1000 miles again? Just replace genuine boot and retain the origionality.

any one with the similar experience. any suggestion?

 

I understand the reason behind the comment from the mechanic regarding the parts reliability... but it is BS. Mechanics make profit on part sales because they put markup on top of it.

But anyways, I would listen to the second mechanic about not replacing the axle or the CV joint. If there is no noticible noise coming from the joint, then it should be pretty much good. Just remove the old boot, repack with grease and install new boot and call it done.

 

Those low prices don't usually include shipping or core charges. The real risk is that you could be swapping a good axle with a torn boot for a high mileage worn out junkyard special with low quality boots. That is why it is good to check the return policy before buying.

 

I bought a pair of inexpensive NEW axles and they lasted three days. I then bought a rebuild axle and it was bad sitting in the box. I wound up just replacing the boot on my old axle.

The outer CV joint is much easier to get off if the axle is out of the car.

#1 is the only way to go. You will need to undo the tie rod end as well. PB Blaster is your friend!

#2 - in order to get the front lower control arm ball joint out, you have to first remove the axle...

#3 - will not happen

Good luck,

Bob

 

Correction:

The proper tightening procedure for the drive shaft is:

Tighten hex bolt for drive axle. Only tighten when vehicle is standing on its wheels to avoid danger of accidents.
Hex bolt M14: 115 Nm plus an additional 180 ° turn.
Hex bolt M16: 190 Nm plus an additional 180 ° turn.


Bob,

As per service manual the lower control arms joints are to be opened with shaft in.
This is the procedure followed by most of the shops I spoke to.

Will post the impressions after the job is done.