Hello All

First post here....

So I just brought my 2011 a6 to the dealer for the 25k maintenance. It turns out I need the rear brake pads and rotors replaced(at least this is what they told me and the light shortly came on after). Pads have about 3-4 milimeters left. They quoted me at $670 for pad and rotors replaced. They told me they replace both the pads and the rotors at the same time. So if the rotors aren't warped they still replace? It just seems a little early to be replacing the rotors. I have to call them back on this because it doesnt make sense. I know dealers make their money off of parts and repairs though, so that is why Im skeptical.

I did call a mechanic who specializes in audis, beamers etc...and he quoted me $180 for the pads and $480 for pads and rotors but I have never used this mechanic so Im a little hesitant. But I know eventually I have to find a good mechanic for this beast so you have to start somewhere. He has been in business for over 20 years though so that makes me more comfortable.

So does the dealer have my best interests in mind or is he trying to make a buck? Also how long do rotors usually go for? I have a Ram 1500 pick-up and I know I have went at least 50K mi. without replacing the rotors. Seems like a no-brainer to go with the non-dealer mechanic.

 

You can pick up a slotted pair of rear rotors off of ebay for about $80 and a good set of pads from Auto Zone for about $65. It is a fairly easy do-it-yourself job. Takes about 2 hours. Dealer prices are nuts. Find an honest local mechanic who will not steal you blind.

 

Most German auto manufactures that I know of (Audi, BMW, Mercedes) recommend that you change the pads and rotors together because of the fact that the rotor in a sense conforms to the wear of the brake pad that it was paired with.

If you were to run your fingers across the rotor you will feel really small grooves. Those grooves were caused by the pad, and when you put a new pad on the grooves will no longer conform to pad preventing the new pad from bedding in properly.

Why don't ALL auto manufactures recommend doing both at the same time? I don't know. Maybe our brand is just a little more picky and aims for absolute perfection and performance?

Certainly you can just do a pad slap and replace the pads and not the rotors, but I doubt you'll get the dealer to do that for you. They will probably refuse. You'll have to find a decent indy shop that will do it for you, and even they will probably caution you with the above information.

Personally, I would try to find a shop that will resurface those rotors for a reasonable price (Around 40/50 dollars) and put new pads and the resurfaced rotors back on.

 

feirstein - I have worked on cars in the past but never did a break job and wont be experimenting on an A6....Ill pay the greenbacks for what its worth.

Nebuchadnezzar - I see what youre saying and that could cause the vibration if there is any. Actually I didnt think they "replaced" the rotors. I thought they resurfaced the exisiting....isn't that "cutting" the rotors? I will have to confirm the dealer is replacing and not cutting. Sounds like resurface is the way to go or just risk it and do the pads only. It would be great to be able to compare the 2 and drive, pads vs pads and rotors but thats unrealisitc.

Thanks for the comments....I will soon have to bite the bullet!