Ballpark to replace turbos, water pump, tensioner and timing belt?
#1
11-30-2008, 05:05 PM
Ballpark to replace turbos, water pump, tensioner and timing belt?
i have an 01 2.7T and i'm getting ready to replace timing belt, etc and probably turbos. i've received quotes from $3.5k to $5k to do these services.
1) does the total seem like it's in the right range for all of that work? i know there are both major repairs.
2) should i just replace the car considering it has 99k on it and is probably only worth $7.5-8k?
i know the second question is more of an opinion but i dont want to drop 5k into a car when I could use it for a new car.
1) does the total seem like it's in the right range for all of that work? i know there are both major repairs.
2) should i just replace the car considering it has 99k on it and is probably only worth $7.5-8k?
i know the second question is more of an opinion but i dont want to drop 5k into a car when I could use it for a new car.
#2
11-30-2008, 07:18 PM
The timing belt service: anywhere from 700-1400 seems to be the going price, depending on where you live and where you have it done. 99k is *really* pushing it with the original timing belt! If you're the DIY type, it's not a bad job to do yourself. It'll take a good day if it's your first one, but it's not too horrid of a job.
The turbos....if I may ask, why are you looking to replace them already? Sure, 99k is getting up there for the K03's, but you could still have another 25k miles left in them, if not more. Ok, so if they're howling like police sirens that sort of answers it, but if they're not....
As for the price of that, it depends on what you replace them with. A rebuild on your existing KO3's will be cheaper than having new ones dropped in, and cheaper than putting on K04's. It sort of depends on what you want to do with the car. 5k is a bunch to drop in, but if you went the K04 route (with the associated plumbing), you sort of have a new, more powerful car.
Long story short- 3.5k to 5k for all of that does seem reasonable, depending on what parts you're replacing.
The turbos....if I may ask, why are you looking to replace them already? Sure, 99k is getting up there for the K03's, but you could still have another 25k miles left in them, if not more. Ok, so if they're howling like police sirens that sort of answers it, but if they're not....
As for the price of that, it depends on what you replace them with. A rebuild on your existing KO3's will be cheaper than having new ones dropped in, and cheaper than putting on K04's. It sort of depends on what you want to do with the car. 5k is a bunch to drop in, but if you went the K04 route (with the associated plumbing), you sort of have a new, more powerful car.
Long story short- 3.5k to 5k for all of that does seem reasonable, depending on what parts you're replacing.
#3
12-01-2008, 05:41 PM
Blauparts kit and 6 hours labor for TB change = ~$800 using an indie shop. Double this if you go to a dealer.
I believe K03s are a $4-500 each and I'd guess the labor at around a thousand. May be less if you already have the front off for the TB change.
K04s, from what I read, will require new intake manifolds and fuel injectors to get the benefit. Then you might as well consider downpipes and a new exhaust. End of the day this upgrade alone will set you back at least $5k. Then consider what you might have to do to strengthen your transmission.
I put in a stage2 clutch when I replaced mine in anticipation of the K04s someday. I'm at 318 hp now and would expect the K04s to get me around 400. As much as having all that power is exciting, I'm not eager to spend the money and therefore continue to drive a stock A6 (other than the GIAC chip) and just crossed 121k miles.
I believe K03s are a $4-500 each and I'd guess the labor at around a thousand. May be less if you already have the front off for the TB change.
K04s, from what I read, will require new intake manifolds and fuel injectors to get the benefit. Then you might as well consider downpipes and a new exhaust. End of the day this upgrade alone will set you back at least $5k. Then consider what you might have to do to strengthen your transmission.
I put in a stage2 clutch when I replaced mine in anticipation of the K04s someday. I'm at 318 hp now and would expect the K04s to get me around 400. As much as having all that power is exciting, I'm not eager to spend the money and therefore continue to drive a stock A6 (other than the GIAC chip) and just crossed 121k miles.
#4
12-01-2008, 09:41 PM
Everything I've read about the 2.7T says that to replace the turbos, you typically pull the engine, which would explain the extremely high labor charges. I've read rumblings about being able to put the car in service position and pull the turbos out from the front, but I think standard practice is to take the engine out to do the turbo replacement. If you go that route, replace the DVs as well (might as well - it's not terribly hard with the engine in but it's a snap with it out of the car) and any oil/vacuum lines/sensors that are hard to reach with everything in the car.
#5
12-02-2008, 12:41 AM
30 hours of labor to change the turbos
8 hours to do the water pump job etc.
So take 38 hours of labor, multiply that by the shop rate, and add the price of parts.
I would guesstimate between $7,000-$8,000.
8 hours to do the water pump job etc.
So take 38 hours of labor, multiply that by the shop rate, and add the price of parts.
I would guesstimate between $7,000-$8,000.
#6
12-02-2008, 02:58 PM
"I've read rumblings about being able to put the car in service position and pull the turbos out from the front, but I think standard practice is to take the engine out to do the turbo replacement. "
I've read those same rumblings, I don't know how on earth one could successfully remove the turbos without taking the engine out of the car. I realize that there might be some magical way to sneak them around the crossmember (after taking out the front axles and the exhaust), but I don't know if the trouble you'd go though doing that would be any faster than pulling the engine out and doing the job right. With something like that, I'd much rather have the engine on a stand to align flanges, break free stuck bolts, the usual crap that you have with any kind of exhaust-related components. Doing that while everything is still jammed in the car? Nah.
Besides, the turbos don't fail (usually) when the car is young. As Imthedevil said, there's lots of other things that are cake to replace with the engine out that are nigh impossible when it's in. At 125-150k miles, doing one huge maintenance job that'll last the rest of the life of the car isn't really a bad thing.
...and short of a 1000cc crotch rocket, K04's are the bees knees.
All of my 0.02. As usual.
I've read those same rumblings, I don't know how on earth one could successfully remove the turbos without taking the engine out of the car. I realize that there might be some magical way to sneak them around the crossmember (after taking out the front axles and the exhaust), but I don't know if the trouble you'd go though doing that would be any faster than pulling the engine out and doing the job right. With something like that, I'd much rather have the engine on a stand to align flanges, break free stuck bolts, the usual crap that you have with any kind of exhaust-related components. Doing that while everything is still jammed in the car? Nah.
Besides, the turbos don't fail (usually) when the car is young. As Imthedevil said, there's lots of other things that are cake to replace with the engine out that are nigh impossible when it's in. At 125-150k miles, doing one huge maintenance job that'll last the rest of the life of the car isn't really a bad thing.
...and short of a 1000cc crotch rocket, K04's are the bees knees.
All of my 0.02. As usual.
#7
12-06-2008, 06:20 PM
Interesting, so I should not be replacing the turbos at this point? I've never really driven the car that hard and always let it cool down after highway driving. I am smelling a little buring oil in the morning once the car warms up but no blue smoke when I start it. As for timing belt - thanks for clarifying and giving me an estimate for parts and labor. I've been told a lot of the cost comes in taking the front off.
One other quick question - is there anything else besides tensioner and water pump I should be replacing when I do TB?
One other quick question - is there anything else besides tensioner and water pump I should be replacing when I do TB?
The timing belt service: anywhere from 700-1400 seems to be the going price, depending on where you live and where you have it done. 99k is *really* pushing it with the original timing belt! If you're the DIY type, it's not a bad job to do yourself. It'll take a good day if it's your first one, but it's not too horrid of a job.
The turbos....if I may ask, why are you looking to replace them already? Sure, 99k is getting up there for the K03's, but you could still have another 25k miles left in them, if not more. Ok, so if they're howling like police sirens that sort of answers it, but if they're not....
As for the price of that, it depends on what you replace them with. A rebuild on your existing KO3's will be cheaper than having new ones dropped in, and cheaper than putting on K04's. It sort of depends on what you want to do with the car. 5k is a bunch to drop in, but if you went the K04 route (with the associated plumbing), you sort of have a new, more powerful car.
Long story short- 3.5k to 5k for all of that does seem reasonable, depending on what parts you're replacing.
The turbos....if I may ask, why are you looking to replace them already? Sure, 99k is getting up there for the K03's, but you could still have another 25k miles left in them, if not more. Ok, so if they're howling like police sirens that sort of answers it, but if they're not....
As for the price of that, it depends on what you replace them with. A rebuild on your existing KO3's will be cheaper than having new ones dropped in, and cheaper than putting on K04's. It sort of depends on what you want to do with the car. 5k is a bunch to drop in, but if you went the K04 route (with the associated plumbing), you sort of have a new, more powerful car.
Long story short- 3.5k to 5k for all of that does seem reasonable, depending on what parts you're replacing.
#8
12-06-2008, 06:23 PM
Thanks for the info - if I may ask, what are DV's? Good point about the vacuum lines, sensors, etc...Thanks again
Everything I've read about the 2.7T says that to replace the turbos, you typically pull the engine, which would explain the extremely high labor charges. I've read rumblings about being able to put the car in service position and pull the turbos out from the front, but I think standard practice is to take the engine out to do the turbo replacement. If you go that route, replace the DVs as well (might as well - it's not terribly hard with the engine in but it's a snap with it out of the car) and any oil/vacuum lines/sensors that are hard to reach with everything in the car.
#9
12-06-2008, 08:34 PM
Interesting, so I should not be replacing the turbos at this point? I've never really driven the car that hard and always let it cool down after highway driving. I am smelling a little buring oil in the morning once the car warms up but no blue smoke when I start it. As for timing belt - thanks for clarifying and giving me an estimate for parts and labor. I've been told a lot of the cost comes in taking the front off.
One other quick question - is there anything else besides tensioner and water pump I should be replacing when I do TB?
One other quick question - is there anything else besides tensioner and water pump I should be replacing when I do TB?
The TB.....yes, there are a few other things that aren't a bad idea while you're in there. The Tensioner pulley, the idler pulley, checking the camshaft and crankshaft seals (replacing if needed), and the serpentine belt. The snub mount should be inspected and replaced if needed (cake when you have everything apart; a pain in the rear when it's all back together).
The DV's....Diverter valves. They divert compressed intake air back into the unpressurized side of the intake track once the compressed air reaches a certain pressure. They're the same idea as Blow-off Valves (BOV) in other cars; the DV's are used so there is less of s pressure shock in the system and it doesn't have that loud "psssshhhhh" noise that BOV's tend to make. Stock A6's have Bosch(?) 710A valves (the model number is longer than that, but it ends in 710A), and the diaphragm in them can fail over time, especially if the car is chipped. The most common replacement is with 710N valves (from the RS6), which will handle anything that you can toss at it. Forge makes a common aftermarket valve that some folks dig. The valves are located on the top front of the engine; if you have the plastic covers off, follow the two air inlet pipes up the front of the engine. Right before they go into the throttle body, there are two (one on each pipe) small beer-keg looking black plastic valves attached to the line. Those are the DV's.
