C4 HVAC unit removal
#1
C4 HVAC unit removal
Hi fellas. I know, I've been "missing in action" for some time... Anyway, when I bought the car in Dec 08, I bought it with a blower motor existent squeal experienced on the way back home. It didn't give me much trouble in all this time beside occasional noise, but with the AC on lately started to do it more than usual.
Moreover, about a week ago on a trip out of town I started hearing like a "sizzling" noise, and strangely enough when taking a curve. Initially I thought it is just condensation dripping on the exhaust pipe(s), but that wasn't it. Listening more carefully, the noise was coming right behind the air vents, like I was barbequeing... So I suspect I had some sort of fluid/condensation inside the HVAC.
Long story short, I started dismantling the center consoles and I'm in a bit of a pickle regarding the HVAC unit.
I checked all the "Heater core removal" articles on audiworld, especially this one for C4, but for the lights of me, I don;t understand how the HVAC unit comes out.
Does it have anything keeping it fastened inside the firewall bay beside the metal strap across it? The person with the "documentation" said he used two broom sticks to pry it out, but that's about any explanation regarding the removal...
Is it just "glued"/sealed to the edges of the opening into the cabin?
I removed pretty much everything as far as the center console(s) is concerned, but don;t want to attempt to disconnect any air ducts before knowing exactly what I have to do in the firewall "bay".
If anyone changed the heater core, or removed the HVAC unit on a C4, please, give a guy a helping "hand".
Thanks a lot for any hint, direction, advice, slap upside the head, etc.
chefro
Moreover, about a week ago on a trip out of town I started hearing like a "sizzling" noise, and strangely enough when taking a curve. Initially I thought it is just condensation dripping on the exhaust pipe(s), but that wasn't it. Listening more carefully, the noise was coming right behind the air vents, like I was barbequeing... So I suspect I had some sort of fluid/condensation inside the HVAC.
Long story short, I started dismantling the center consoles and I'm in a bit of a pickle regarding the HVAC unit.
I checked all the "Heater core removal" articles on audiworld, especially this one for C4, but for the lights of me, I don;t understand how the HVAC unit comes out.
Does it have anything keeping it fastened inside the firewall bay beside the metal strap across it? The person with the "documentation" said he used two broom sticks to pry it out, but that's about any explanation regarding the removal...
Is it just "glued"/sealed to the edges of the opening into the cabin?
I removed pretty much everything as far as the center console(s) is concerned, but don;t want to attempt to disconnect any air ducts before knowing exactly what I have to do in the firewall "bay".
If anyone changed the heater core, or removed the HVAC unit on a C4, please, give a guy a helping "hand".
Thanks a lot for any hint, direction, advice, slap upside the head, etc.
chefro
#2
I found a Youtube video and hopefully can figure out what two bolts the guy is talking about. Will follow up...
#3
I wasn't able to look it up until this afternoon, but the sucker is out. I really have no idea what two bolts the guy from the video is talking about, but since he took the whole dashboard out he may refer to something else (a bracket or the likes). As soon as the air ducts inside are unhooked, and is separated from the coolant hoses and the Air Exchange Box (or whatever is called - the one with the cabin filter in it), the unit comes out.
However, removal of the wipers mechanism is must, otherwise the HVAC cannot be pulled out.
I took pics but I need to install the Photoshop before doing anything with them.
However, removal of the wipers mechanism is must, otherwise the HVAC cannot be pulled out.
I took pics but I need to install the Photoshop before doing anything with them.
#4
so far I'm waiting on parts...
I bought what I thought is a "great brand" heater core (Febi Bilstein) from the "specialized" local parts store and the damn thing (made in China) doesn't fit in the box because of longer coolant line ends... Have to reorder from Blaufergnugen unless the local guy can work out a refund/exchange deal through Carquest.
I just love my Audi....
I bought what I thought is a "great brand" heater core (Febi Bilstein) from the "specialized" local parts store and the damn thing (made in China) doesn't fit in the box because of longer coolant line ends... Have to reorder from Blaufergnugen unless the local guy can work out a refund/exchange deal through Carquest.
I just love my Audi....
#5
*** The old core: 443 819 031D
*** The crappy, unfitting core made in China by Febi Bilstein: 443 819 030, also as referenced by Audi dealer (STAY AWAY from it unless you get a new air box)
*** The replacement core from Blaufergnugen (TKS for shipping it in one day!):
443 819 031C - made by Meyle; PERFECT FIT
* Will update with pics when I'll put everything back together (still waiting on the blower motor).
*** The crappy, unfitting core made in China by Febi Bilstein: 443 819 030, also as referenced by Audi dealer (STAY AWAY from it unless you get a new air box)
*** The replacement core from Blaufergnugen (TKS for shipping it in one day!):
443 819 031C - made by Meyle; PERFECT FIT
* Will update with pics when I'll put everything back together (still waiting on the blower motor).
#6
Well, it took me a while to finish the repair since I waited for the parts, but I completed it. I promised I'll post pics, but it also took me a while to come around reinstalling Photoshop and on top of everything else we went in vacation.
Here it goes my experience with the Heater Core/Blower Motor box for the C4.
For the ones that read the first posts in this thread, I must say that now I know exactly what two bolts the gentleman from the Youtube video is talking about...
There's no need for the dashboard to be taken apart or out, indeed, but I wouldn't rate this job as an "easy" or a "pleasurable" one. I didn't take pics related to removal of the lower console, as that's the easier part. If someone doesn't know yet how to remove that, then probably s/he should take the car to a shop for this type of R & R. The only point to make, is that there's a bolt on the side of the driver side footwell that needs to be removed:
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As far as the center console, the removal is pretty intuitive and the radio (at least in my car) needs not to come out of its slot. It can be disconnected when the whole console core comes out. Every module is held in place by bolts, except for the air-vents unit which has four metal clips that snap on and hold the unit in place. It needs to come out, otherwise the top bolts holding the center console secured cannot be accessed.
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I personally took the rear air ducts out as well, since I had no idea what exactly needs to be disconnected or to come out.
In retrospect, this step is not needed and I only made the job harder...
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On the engine bay side of things, there are several things to remove and disconnect, starting with the cowl, windshield rubber "seal", the grill, wipers, wiper mechanism, the metal strap holding the box tight in place, and the 'accordeon'-like connection with the evaporator housing. There are also various power connectors and vacuum hoses that need be disconnected. Make sure you understand which one goes where before starting to disconnect stuff.
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At this point the box can be carefullly and slowly "nudged" out of its "resting place"... It may take a bit of patience and several good tries because the sealing tape holds the box in place pretty good.
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Here it goes my experience with the Heater Core/Blower Motor box for the C4.
For the ones that read the first posts in this thread, I must say that now I know exactly what two bolts the gentleman from the Youtube video is talking about...
There's no need for the dashboard to be taken apart or out, indeed, but I wouldn't rate this job as an "easy" or a "pleasurable" one. I didn't take pics related to removal of the lower console, as that's the easier part. If someone doesn't know yet how to remove that, then probably s/he should take the car to a shop for this type of R & R. The only point to make, is that there's a bolt on the side of the driver side footwell that needs to be removed:
-
-
As far as the center console, the removal is pretty intuitive and the radio (at least in my car) needs not to come out of its slot. It can be disconnected when the whole console core comes out. Every module is held in place by bolts, except for the air-vents unit which has four metal clips that snap on and hold the unit in place. It needs to come out, otherwise the top bolts holding the center console secured cannot be accessed.
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I personally took the rear air ducts out as well, since I had no idea what exactly needs to be disconnected or to come out.
In retrospect, this step is not needed and I only made the job harder...
-
-
On the engine bay side of things, there are several things to remove and disconnect, starting with the cowl, windshield rubber "seal", the grill, wipers, wiper mechanism, the metal strap holding the box tight in place, and the 'accordeon'-like connection with the evaporator housing. There are also various power connectors and vacuum hoses that need be disconnected. Make sure you understand which one goes where before starting to disconnect stuff.
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-
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At this point the box can be carefullly and slowly "nudged" out of its "resting place"... It may take a bit of patience and several good tries because the sealing tape holds the box in place pretty good.
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#7
The blower motor comes out easily, as is fastened only with a retaining or safety ring. As the ring is snapped out of its channel, the blower motor can be easily pushed out.
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I don't know why the blower motor in my car was whinning every now and then ever since I purchased the car, but that was the reason for this whole "endeavor"...
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New blower motor in:
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As far as the heater core, already wrote about the out-of-specs Febi Bilstein model made in China, which I returned and ordered instead a Meyle from Blaufergnugen - which is the perfect fit.
I used High Temp Silicone RTV to seal back the gap area where the coolant ducts come out of housing. (EBahn calls for Silicone RUBBER sealant)
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Back to normal again...
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That's pretty much it, in a nutshell.
While going in vacation and running extensively the AC (pretty warm out there) I realized I have also an Evaporator Housing draining problem, as I had several "feet showers" throughout our escapade... I need to solve that problem asap unless I want to replace the blower motor again....NOT
If I left something important out, please correct me. If you had no idea about what this "fun" job entails, you're welcome and I hope at least one person will benefit from this "walk-through", even though is more in images than thoroughly explained in writing. It's easier to answer questions than writing ....memoires... I've never been a good scribe.
Thanks for the attention.
chefro
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I don't know why the blower motor in my car was whinning every now and then ever since I purchased the car, but that was the reason for this whole "endeavor"...
-
New blower motor in:
-
-
As far as the heater core, already wrote about the out-of-specs Febi Bilstein model made in China, which I returned and ordered instead a Meyle from Blaufergnugen - which is the perfect fit.
I used High Temp Silicone RTV to seal back the gap area where the coolant ducts come out of housing. (EBahn calls for Silicone RUBBER sealant)
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
Back to normal again...
-
-
That's pretty much it, in a nutshell.
While going in vacation and running extensively the AC (pretty warm out there) I realized I have also an Evaporator Housing draining problem, as I had several "feet showers" throughout our escapade... I need to solve that problem asap unless I want to replace the blower motor again....NOT
If I left something important out, please correct me. If you had no idea about what this "fun" job entails, you're welcome and I hope at least one person will benefit from this "walk-through", even though is more in images than thoroughly explained in writing. It's easier to answer questions than writing ....memoires... I've never been a good scribe.
Thanks for the attention.
chefro
#8
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Forgot to mention: in the process I also replaced the heater control valve: 4A0 819 809.
It's coolant duct was developing a crack, so $ 22 dollars later (from Arizona Autohaus) adds a little piece of mind. The valve itself was still functioning properly...
I also switched to Zerex G05 coolant, which is more widely available (locally included) and is half Pentosin's price...
Last edited by chefro; 07-25-2010 at 09:26 PM.
#10
Man Chefro... I guess in about a month, you will probably have a brand new 95 A6. More power to ya! BTW, my other half will probably strangle me if I spend that much time with my other, other half.