Thank you very much. You're kidding about the car burning down though right? I wouldn't wish that upon anyone, and that would be a tragedy.

 

1. I did just this, i used an xpresskit to temporarily disable the immobilizer as the remote starter is functioning. (I wired the python so if anyone tries to tamper with the doors/hood/trunk or hits the brake or trips the alarm in any way that the immobilizer turns back on and alarm goes off, so its still wired in with factory security as well as the python both together)

2. The range on my factory remote simply sucks. I have to be a good 6 feet close to the vehicle for it to function properly. . the python has a 1 mile range, and yes, its pretty damn close. i mounted the antenna really high on the windshield so it is as effective as they get. Looping a thin copper wire around small antenna leads and sodering it to the antenna lead on the small board inside the antenna casing and grounding it to the chassy of the car greatly increases the range of the remote as well.

3. The python has the 2 way ofcourse, letting me know the amount of runtime left on the vehicle, cabin air temperature and of course, the status of the security.

4. "Replicating the key chip" would work on this model, It works similarly to the rf frequency scan to a garage opener.... Scan, copy and resend is basically how that works, but even some new garage door openers use a "rolling code" feature...

but if a thief wants a car, or something in the vehicle that bad, they will figure out a way to get to it... . unfortunately.

5. Installing the unit was not difficult at all, but it is not your typical DIY unit by any means. It requires programming (bitwriter or manual) I could not find the leads i needed because there were a sea of wires behind the driver side kickpanel, i did not want to probe for signals and cause issues as far as the ecm goes, after all most everything is tied into the computer in that car.



So the 2 way feature works great, lock/unlock/trunk open, I even programmed it to shut all four windows and the sunroof if i arm the alarm.

hook, trunk, all four door and shock sensor trip the alarm, this unit is capable of tilt/glass break and proximity sensors as well as audio sensor . cabin air temperature, runtime feature on the lcd remote works fine, turbo timer mode is the only thing i did not hook up, for i do not see it very necessary on this specific vehicle.

 

yes i was joking... the vehicle did not burn down, and i would be pretty disappointed if it did.

 

hi, just wondering how you finally made out with the install. i have a viper 5902 which is similar to your python i believe and plan on installing it pretty soon. i would appreciate any diagram info or advice you could give on installing to this vehicle, (mines a 2000 so i dont have the immobiliser problem)
i have installed remote starts before but not on a car this complex and also would like to hook up all the extra gizmos.

thanks.

 

install went flawless, every function works great, in open area at 1 mile exactly the remote still functions (antenna mod)

your 5902 should have a feature to keep the "lock" signal on for a few seconds until the windows/sunroof close (if you have a sunroof) it basically makes the car think that you are holding the key to the lock position in your doors. this is nice for when you have the windows down/sunroof open and you just want to get out of the car and hit lock on the transmitter...

what exactly do you need help with?

 

basically just any tips or probs you came across, like are most of the wires needed under the steering column and behind the climate control display?
for the boot release did you go back to the switch or did you trace it back to the dash so less intrusive when running the wires.
also, when you found the wires needed did you cut, solder and heatshrink them or just peel back the insulation, wrap the wire and solder and then cover with tape? just wondered how other people do there installs.
i got the wiring diagram off the 12 volt, is this where you sourced yours, allways good to have a couple because ive found in the past that they arent allways 100% accurate.
thanks.

 

All the wires you need are under the driver side dash/steering column.

If i had to "tap" in to a signal i strip back the insulation and solder the wires following with heatshrink.

I temporarily twisted and taped the wires and tested the entire unit before soldering to make sure everything worked.

 

its all done now, everything works and i am pretty pleased with it, i wired up everything in the end as well, fog lights, reverse lights, sunroof, windows,door triggers ,trunk release, rear defroster, turbo timer and extra temp sensor for outside temp too.
i also soldered and heatshrunk where i could, but taped where i had too, curious as you say you heatshrunk everything but hard to do unless you cut the wire?

 

I'm kind of curious here- it looks to me the intentions were to kill a lot of spare time or just for the sake of exercise.
As for the protection provided - is it not the total value in case of theft much higher than the market value?

 

I first make initial connections, and if everything works 100% i go back, strip or cut a wire (depending if you're tapping or bypassing) and then i solder all my connections following by heatshrink.

Yup! a newb like myself has nothing better to do then kill a lot of spare time, and i am fat, therefore i need the exercise as well.

See, being productive, and caring about functionality at the same time is like an allstar ethiopian in a sweatshop with 2 very loyal white bitches by his side fanning him while he works.