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CV axle replacement B5 HELP PLEASE.

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  #1  
Old 02-12-2009, 09:44 PM
goblue's Avatar
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Default CV axle replacement B5 HELP PLEASE.

Hi, I am very new to this site but I have searched it extensively to find some great information.

I am currently replacing my drivers side CV axle (the boot was torn and I was hearing all sorts of horrible grinding noises). I have a 2004 A6 2.7T automatic by the way.

This has been frustrating since every step of the way seems like an eternity.

I currently have the old axle off, I removed the dreaded pinch bolt (This took me three hours alone with a BFH, drilling, etc.), the upper control arms are out of the upright (another hour of hard hammering), and now for the life of me I cannot get the new axle in. I need to know the technique as I have tried for 2 hours with no success.

Do you mount the new axle on first, turn the wheel to the far right, and wiggle the cv joint into the joint housing? I am having no luck with this. I thought that after my fight with the pinch bolt and upper control arms everything else would be a cake walk. Holding the CV joint with one hand and trying to manuever the upright is taking all of my strength. The upright is just not cooperating that well and the clearance needed to slide the CV axle into the upright seems to be like 3 mm too short.

I even unbolted the new axle to see if this would get me a littel more clearance with no luck.

Please give me some advice. I am totally frustrated.
 
  #2  
Old 02-13-2009, 12:25 AM
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Much easier with aq second pair of hands. On person pulls the whole assembly outward enough to let the other person insert the axle through!
 
  #3  
Old 02-13-2009, 06:50 AM
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Default 2nd pair of hands

As I was lying in bed contemplating my next move I figured that I will need to phone a friend. My incredible hulk like strength is failing me and there is no way to manuever the housing with one arm/leg/inner thigh and slip the CV axle in with another. I felt like some sort of contortion artist and I can only imagine how I looked.

I will not bolt the one end that normally goes to the car, turn the wheel all the way to the right (this seems to give the most play with the housing), two hand the housing into a hopefully friendly position, and have a 2nd pair of hands try to slip the axle in. Please let me know if this seems like a good approach. Any lessons learned from past exeriences will be much appreciated.
 
  #4  
Old 02-13-2009, 07:43 AM
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Have you unbolted the tie rod end? If not, do so. If you have, the next step is to unbolt the strut and the sway bar from the front lower control arm. That should do the trick, but if not, unbolt the front lower control arm from the frame.

When you reassemble that pinch bolt and upper control arms, use lots and lots of anti-sieze! Remember, you'll be back in to do the control arms one of these days!

Bob
 
  #5  
Old 02-13-2009, 12:32 PM
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I have just removed the pinch bolt and the two upper control arms. From what I researched I thought that this was all that was to be removed. If I have to go further then there is no choice.

Forgive me for my newness, but is the tie rod end the part that attaches the housing to the steering? I have not yet removed this.

Also, is there only one lower control arm? I am not familiar with what the parts are so identifying the sway bar and strut are going to be a guess work for now. If there are not too many things connected to the lower control arm then it should not be hard to identify. I mentally remember that the lower control arm is connected to the housing and that is it. I am at work now and I will be trying to get the axle in after work.

This is day 3. Believe it or not I was able to squeeze out the old axle without removing anything.

And I do have anti-sieze waiting and ready.

Thanks for your reply Bob, I really appreciate it and anyway else you can help.
 
  #6  
Old 02-13-2009, 06:22 PM
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Unhappy

I have now removed the bolts that hold in the tie rod but the tie rod will not come out and it is not easy to tap out. I noticed that the top screw also went into what appears to be something that can be turned with an allen wrench. Does this have to come out too? What size is it?

 
  #7  
Old 02-13-2009, 06:43 PM
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Talking

I never had to undo anything more than the pinch bolt to replace my axle, but I believe I was very lucky.
However I did need a second set of hands. For the price of a beer for my freind I spared my children the sound of foul language!
 
  #8  
Old 02-13-2009, 08:33 PM
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Once I finally pounded the tie rod out it was a piece of cake getting the cv axle in the housing. I now have the tie rod back in, the front upper control arm in, and the back upper control half way in. I am taking a break. That back upper control arm one is not going in that easy and tapping it in is tough since there is a nice shock absorbing rubber piece right on top of it. Should this just slide right in? After that it I will be back on the road in no time.
 
  #9  
Old 02-14-2009, 01:20 AM
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Sometimes I use an air hammer to remove stuck bolts, however for removing tie rod end studs I usually use an OTC pitman arm tool with adjustable arms. It is not a good idea to be hammering away near the soft rubber parts. Also, I put an old nut on the end of the stud to protect the pointed tip of the OTC tool.
The problem with air hammers it that they can do a lot of damage if they are not firmly held. Perhaps a ball joint removal tool could also remove a frozen pinch bolt.
 
  #10  
Old 02-14-2009, 07:12 AM
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That top rear control arm can be difficult! I take a jack, place it under the knuckle and jack up the knuckle a few inches. This helps line up the upper control arm ball joint ends with their respective holes. Also, I use a chisel to widen the the hole a bit. I tap the chisel into the slot provided. I also lube up the hole generously.

Bob
 


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