Fucking transmission problem 00 A6 Quatrro 4.2L V8 non Turbo
It's not appropriate and usually only found on kiddie modder sites and I'm surprised the forum boss didn't erase his post and nick, the handle "SITE ADMINISTRATOR" doesn't take much imagination to guess the type of person we're dealing with, he wanted to attract attention when he signed on to Audiforums.
The transmission should have a label attatched to the housing, however you may need to clean the label so you get the correct numbers. Also, the center differential may have another label.
Since you have an A8 you may find some information for your transmission at http://www.audipages.com/Tech_Articl...nsmission.html
Since you have an A8 you may find some information for your transmission at http://www.audipages.com/Tech_Articl...nsmission.html
It's not appropriate and usually only found on kiddie modder sites and I'm surprised the forum boss didn't erase his post and nick, the handle "SITE ADMINISTRATOR" doesn't take much imagination to guess the type of person we're dealing with, he wanted to attract attention when he signed on to Audiforums.
Should the web master also edit or censor the poor language and grammar or handles of various entities who complain about others doing the same?
Why is a certain Mercedes owner complaining about an Audi owner who actually repairs his own transmission?
Why should the web master listen to a complaint which is just a long run on sentence, has posted only 34 times and wants a detailed thread about Audi transmissions purged?
Why is a certain Mercedes owner complaining about an Audi owner who actually repairs his own transmission?
Why should the web master listen to a complaint which is just a long run on sentence, has posted only 34 times and wants a detailed thread about Audi transmissions purged?
Should the web master also edit or censor the poor language and grammar or handles of various entities who complain about others doing the same?
Why is a certain Mercedes owner complaining about an Audi owner who actually repairs his own transmission?
Why should the web master listen to a complaint which is just a long run on sentence, has posted only 34 times and wants a detailed thread about Audi transmissions purged?
Why is a certain Mercedes owner complaining about an Audi owner who actually repairs his own transmission?
Why should the web master listen to a complaint which is just a long run on sentence, has posted only 34 times and wants a detailed thread about Audi transmissions purged?
I've been reading (lurking) at Audiforums for allot longer then my sign-up date which BTW corresponds with when I purchased my A6, I wanted to find a *mature forum, I developed a very good idea on how "most" people conduct themselves here so I joined. But I've been around..longer then I like to recall actually so using the phony "SITE ADMINISTRATOR" nick shows me someone who is trying to be deceptive or at the very least, disrespecting the REAL Administrators making it look like it was the real admin who posted the message..how lame can you get A6HCW!!! There's people who work hard to let people like you and me and *him to have a place to come to!!! for help. Posting vulgar subject headers is usually reserved to the childish kiddie gamer forums on AOL..it's lame and unappropriate here and BTW, lot's of people do their own repairs..does that give you special privledges???
As to being a MB owner, I am and very proud, a classic 87 TDwagon with almost 300K 215K which I put on myself so I listed it in the garage and over the years I've helped allot of MB owners and they helped me and if I ever learn this A6 better I'll do the same here,YES I also own a late model A6.
Look , you seem like a nice person and if you don't understand the basis of the complaint..you don't understand (I was certainly not the only one who complained) consider youself an exception at Audiforums.
---mystro falls off the soapbox-- end of thread for me.
Mystrodo,
sorry for my 2 cents intermezzo (or call it opinion - everyone is entitled to one, right?)
If you were lurking long enough, you should have noticed that at the time HE "corrected" the title by replacing the word you're so offended by with "freaking". That it means he acknowledged the use of an inappropriate (English language could offer such hypocritical situations, eh?) and bad (venting) word, used probably in a moment of frustration. Why the thread's title still retained the "*******" word is a mystery and shows you how much actually the administrators of the forums care(d) about this thread.
Unlike people who call others "ignorants" or "smug" out of the blue just because opinion differences and neither people say a darn thing about their manners, nor they ever apologize, the user Site_Administrator attempted to rectify his "ill language".
As far as "kiddie" games, you wouldn't happen to have the same IP address with the user "nemohm", would you?
If he was a kid physically and mindly, I doubt he would have been able to rebuild his transmission, and offer to share his detailed experience as a helping topic for others. Nowaday kids are raised in competition, they don't like to share with others.
Labeling someone without knowing that person is worse than just using a word that everyone is using (even if some only privetly) and is so deeply inveterate in the language.
sorry for my 2 cents intermezzo (or call it opinion - everyone is entitled to one, right?)
If you were lurking long enough, you should have noticed that at the time HE "corrected" the title by replacing the word you're so offended by with "freaking". That it means he acknowledged the use of an inappropriate (English language could offer such hypocritical situations, eh?) and bad (venting) word, used probably in a moment of frustration. Why the thread's title still retained the "*******" word is a mystery and shows you how much actually the administrators of the forums care(d) about this thread.
Unlike people who call others "ignorants" or "smug" out of the blue just because opinion differences and neither people say a darn thing about their manners, nor they ever apologize, the user Site_Administrator attempted to rectify his "ill language".
As far as "kiddie" games, you wouldn't happen to have the same IP address with the user "nemohm", would you?
If he was a kid physically and mindly, I doubt he would have been able to rebuild his transmission, and offer to share his detailed experience as a helping topic for others. Nowaday kids are raised in competition, they don't like to share with others.
Labeling someone without knowing that person is worse than just using a word that everyone is using (even if some only privetly) and is so deeply inveterate in the language.
My main issue from the get-go was his signing up as "Site Administrator"..that set me off, it disrespects the real site Administrators..plain and simple. The subject header with "Site Administrator" attached should make the rest obvious. And you know what, I'm surprised I even needed to explain this.
That's funny I got a reply the other day and all the ****'s were replaced with Freakin's Now I understand. That's too funny, I was reading it wondering WTF? but i did get the jist. ( By the way my spell check want's to change freakin to foreskin. I have a perv copy of Vista! I love it! I guess Vista has a sense of humor afterall!!!) Who Knew?
I will say one thing when I myself or any mechanic I know gets into a spot trying to get a bolt out without room or it snaps or what ever, there is nothing in that shop being said that can even merely be considered as NON-VULGAR. Considering that this is a mechanical site you should expect a certain level of it from time to time. Especially from those who do nothing other than service cars for people who are pissed off that their car is broken.
But hey after all nobody is forcing you to read it. However on behalf of all my A$$-O friends who can not control their language or texts I do apologize. He did seem to swear a lot but something tells me he did not acquire his Audi with a Harvard education (he had to bust his butt for a used POS ). I'm sure if you set him up in a cushy air conditioned 6 figure job where responsibility doesn't matter because the Government will always bail you out, instead of an overheated trany shop in Tampa Florida you would get some more refined texts. I would never use a curse word in a text to any of my customers or colleagues because at that level they must pretend to be refined.(However at the massage parlor on Friday nights it's a different story with those guys.)
I will say one thing when I myself or any mechanic I know gets into a spot trying to get a bolt out without room or it snaps or what ever, there is nothing in that shop being said that can even merely be considered as NON-VULGAR. Considering that this is a mechanical site you should expect a certain level of it from time to time. Especially from those who do nothing other than service cars for people who are pissed off that their car is broken.
But hey after all nobody is forcing you to read it. However on behalf of all my A$$-O friends who can not control their language or texts I do apologize. He did seem to swear a lot but something tells me he did not acquire his Audi with a Harvard education (he had to bust his butt for a used POS ). I'm sure if you set him up in a cushy air conditioned 6 figure job where responsibility doesn't matter because the Government will always bail you out, instead of an overheated trany shop in Tampa Florida you would get some more refined texts. I would never use a curse word in a text to any of my customers or colleagues because at that level they must pretend to be refined.(However at the massage parlor on Friday nights it's a different story with those guys.)
It was going into limp mode and giving me a check engine p0734 code. Fourth gear ratio incorrect. Transmission was slipping on fourth. What I suspect happened was that the computer that controls the Transmission under the rug was wet. Previous owner drove it like that. This caused the converter clutch to wear out and clutch pack B to burn up (trying to drive it while stuck on fouth) overheating drum b and almost causing major damage , but I stopped driving it after I bought the computer. It was shifting fine until It reached fourth. I dropped the pan and the oil was tar black. I was forced to make a decision. Throw the car away, get raped financially without Vaseline from a shop....Or suck it up and do it myself.
I buy my transmission rebuild kits from TRANSTAR INDUSTRIES INC. The website is here... www.transtarindustries.com
Check, they may have one near your house, you never know. This is where most transmission repair shops get parts. Then they stick it to you for $4800 bucks or more. The parts of your ZF transmission are dirt cheap $550 bucks total for the whole rebuild kit. Unless you just want to fix one little thing and put it back in. In my opinion, the hardest part was taking it off and CLEANING! You have to buy 5 gallans of degreaser and clean alot of **** especially the carrier underneath. Once everything is clean (tools included) it makes the job so much easier. Everything is nice and clean and organized. Buy a big box of disposable rubber gloves too.
If you need Audi Parts (of any kind) there are several Audi-only salvage yards, but my favorite is SHOKAN Coachworks www.shokan.com
If you need a transmission repair manual for your specific Audi Transmission, you can get it at Automatic Transmission Service Group (ATSG) website is here... www.atsg.com . I have the ZF5HP24A (the letter "A" is for all wheel drive, don't confuse it ) book and I don't need it anymore. It was the best manual I ever seen with good photographs and very simple procedures to dissasemble and reinstall. There was so many little parts and washers and bearrings that I had no clue how they went back in, and the manual shows you clearly and flawlessly.
I have repaired other foreign vehicles in my life, but never an Audi Trany. It was out on the floor in two days, and I took it apart to inspect the damage. I took the tranny apart CAREFULLY, following step by step instructions.It was a pain in the *** removing the ATF Oil Supply assembly without the Audi shop tool they illustrate. I used a vice grip pliers and a dent puller and hammered it out without a scratch! Flawless! I should have been an engineer my wife said. I had to improvise also with the removal of the clutch pistons to replace the seals.
You don't have to do all this if your tranny parts look new and has low mileage, but I did all this work and just don't want to take a chance on a 5 cent rubber ring seal.
By the way, all the parts inside looked new. The culprit was clutch pack "B" . That's what they call it in the manual. All the friction plates in clutch pack "B" (6) were burnt almost to the metal. Lucky thing I stopped driving it or it would have been metal to metal grinding going on to destroy more parts. Bentley manual(alternative manual) goes on to explain that if you are slipping on fourth or fifth gear(doesn't matter), then your converter clutch (integrated with the converter -built in) is failing, causing Clutch pack "B" to overheat. This is probably what is making the transmission control module go into fail safe mode and the car free revs in drive until you shut it off (limp Mode). Don't ask me how that works, I just pulled the clutches apart to inspect them, and the gosh darn manual was right on the money! clutch "b" cylinder looked black and all the friction plates were scorched. So, I needed a new torque converter $109 bucks at DACCO of detroit in Orlando(incase you want to buy one or rebuild yours) the dealer has them for $1100 bucks(bastards) no one else carries converters in our national chains. And you sure as hell don't want to buy a used one... So, the master rebuild kit cost me $550 bucks, plus I'm changed the oil to Mobil 1 fully synthetic ATF(which is way cheaper, and I can get it at Wal-mart for crying out loud(compared to the dealer's Esso LT 71141 oil).
I restocked it with this ATF Oil. I'm not spending $300 on oil from Germany, when clearly everyone is saying in forums that Audi/Volkswagens/Bmw oil is Dexron IID(worse than Dexron III).
Here is the Mobil website if you want to compare specs. They say their oil exceeds and out performs Audi's. http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...hetic_ATF.aspx
It was easy to rebuild, You just need alot a patience, Good spec manuals. plenty of room, clean organized area, about three weeks (take your time), an engine hoist $200 at advance auto because you have to support the engine while you remove the entire subframe, lots of desel and degreaser, four jack stands, and two hydraulic jacks(to put it back in I used two Hydaulic jacks and three men to wiggle that monster in and get a bolt started- 15 minutes and alot of muscle) the rest of the work I did myself,It took 4 days little by little putting stuff back in. I am slow, maybe you can do it faster. Oh and you have to have air tools, this really helps. You need torx sockets(these cars use alot of specialty tools, but I improvised) hex sockets, swivels, twelve point torx driver, (to remove the front drive shafts). I already have all these tools because I fix cars and have bought them over the years. But, it is not expensive at all. Compared to $4800 or more at a shop.
Study the manual first. Go over the proceedures in your mind for a day or two. study, all the details, and act the part in your mind. Think about how expensive it will be to tow it to the shop and have them fix it. hopefully you will be motivated like me to drop a tranny and fix it yourself!. Audi maintains value in the market place, it is worth fixing because they are built well. I feel so good and confident now. I can drive this car to Alaska without doubts because I know what's in there. I also changed the oil from Audi's expensive ESSO life time oil(bull **** it was black and dirty), to Mobile 1 synthetic ATF. It it running smooth, I love the power it has now. It shifts flawlessly. You do not have to spend $600 dollars on everything in there, Just buy the frictions and fix what ever clutch pack is burnt out. I noticed that I was taking out seals and they looked new, I was doing double work. It was not neccesary in my case to take every little thing apart and change all those pain in the *** seals and berrings. They look new. It would have been a $50 job if I just bought clutch B frictions and definately have your converter rebuilt or buy a rebuilt one. New ones cost too much.
I buy my transmission rebuild kits from TRANSTAR INDUSTRIES INC. The website is here... www.transtarindustries.com
Check, they may have one near your house, you never know. This is where most transmission repair shops get parts. Then they stick it to you for $4800 bucks or more. The parts of your ZF transmission are dirt cheap $550 bucks total for the whole rebuild kit. Unless you just want to fix one little thing and put it back in. In my opinion, the hardest part was taking it off and CLEANING! You have to buy 5 gallans of degreaser and clean alot of **** especially the carrier underneath. Once everything is clean (tools included) it makes the job so much easier. Everything is nice and clean and organized. Buy a big box of disposable rubber gloves too.
If you need Audi Parts (of any kind) there are several Audi-only salvage yards, but my favorite is SHOKAN Coachworks www.shokan.com
If you need a transmission repair manual for your specific Audi Transmission, you can get it at Automatic Transmission Service Group (ATSG) website is here... www.atsg.com . I have the ZF5HP24A (the letter "A" is for all wheel drive, don't confuse it ) book and I don't need it anymore. It was the best manual I ever seen with good photographs and very simple procedures to dissasemble and reinstall. There was so many little parts and washers and bearrings that I had no clue how they went back in, and the manual shows you clearly and flawlessly.
I have repaired other foreign vehicles in my life, but never an Audi Trany. It was out on the floor in two days, and I took it apart to inspect the damage. I took the tranny apart CAREFULLY, following step by step instructions.It was a pain in the *** removing the ATF Oil Supply assembly without the Audi shop tool they illustrate. I used a vice grip pliers and a dent puller and hammered it out without a scratch! Flawless! I should have been an engineer my wife said. I had to improvise also with the removal of the clutch pistons to replace the seals.
You don't have to do all this if your tranny parts look new and has low mileage, but I did all this work and just don't want to take a chance on a 5 cent rubber ring seal.
By the way, all the parts inside looked new. The culprit was clutch pack "B" . That's what they call it in the manual. All the friction plates in clutch pack "B" (6) were burnt almost to the metal. Lucky thing I stopped driving it or it would have been metal to metal grinding going on to destroy more parts. Bentley manual(alternative manual) goes on to explain that if you are slipping on fourth or fifth gear(doesn't matter), then your converter clutch (integrated with the converter -built in) is failing, causing Clutch pack "B" to overheat. This is probably what is making the transmission control module go into fail safe mode and the car free revs in drive until you shut it off (limp Mode). Don't ask me how that works, I just pulled the clutches apart to inspect them, and the gosh darn manual was right on the money! clutch "b" cylinder looked black and all the friction plates were scorched. So, I needed a new torque converter $109 bucks at DACCO of detroit in Orlando(incase you want to buy one or rebuild yours) the dealer has them for $1100 bucks(bastards) no one else carries converters in our national chains. And you sure as hell don't want to buy a used one... So, the master rebuild kit cost me $550 bucks, plus I'm changed the oil to Mobil 1 fully synthetic ATF(which is way cheaper, and I can get it at Wal-mart for crying out loud(compared to the dealer's Esso LT 71141 oil).
I restocked it with this ATF Oil. I'm not spending $300 on oil from Germany, when clearly everyone is saying in forums that Audi/Volkswagens/Bmw oil is Dexron IID(worse than Dexron III).
Here is the Mobil website if you want to compare specs. They say their oil exceeds and out performs Audi's. http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...hetic_ATF.aspx
It was easy to rebuild, You just need alot a patience, Good spec manuals. plenty of room, clean organized area, about three weeks (take your time), an engine hoist $200 at advance auto because you have to support the engine while you remove the entire subframe, lots of desel and degreaser, four jack stands, and two hydraulic jacks(to put it back in I used two Hydaulic jacks and three men to wiggle that monster in and get a bolt started- 15 minutes and alot of muscle) the rest of the work I did myself,It took 4 days little by little putting stuff back in. I am slow, maybe you can do it faster. Oh and you have to have air tools, this really helps. You need torx sockets(these cars use alot of specialty tools, but I improvised) hex sockets, swivels, twelve point torx driver, (to remove the front drive shafts). I already have all these tools because I fix cars and have bought them over the years. But, it is not expensive at all. Compared to $4800 or more at a shop.
Study the manual first. Go over the proceedures in your mind for a day or two. study, all the details, and act the part in your mind. Think about how expensive it will be to tow it to the shop and have them fix it. hopefully you will be motivated like me to drop a tranny and fix it yourself!. Audi maintains value in the market place, it is worth fixing because they are built well. I feel so good and confident now. I can drive this car to Alaska without doubts because I know what's in there. I also changed the oil from Audi's expensive ESSO life time oil(bull **** it was black and dirty), to Mobile 1 synthetic ATF. It it running smooth, I love the power it has now. It shifts flawlessly. You do not have to spend $600 dollars on everything in there, Just buy the frictions and fix what ever clutch pack is burnt out. I noticed that I was taking out seals and they looked new, I was doing double work. It was not neccesary in my case to take every little thing apart and change all those pain in the *** seals and berrings. They look new. It would have been a $50 job if I just bought clutch B frictions and definately have your converter rebuilt or buy a rebuilt one. New ones cost too much.


