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Heater issues!!!

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  #1  
Old 01-16-2009, 06:08 PM
playboy00786's Avatar
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Default Heater issues!!!

uIve got a 01 a6 2.7t and lately the heater has been taking longer and longer to blow out hot air...and its not really until i get driving it after i let it warm up that it gets warm. So with that said what is starting to go out or what is wrong....i know of three possible things? Thermostat, Heater core or water pump? What is most likely the problem for my heater taking longer and longer to spit out cold air?

update:it only blows out hot air now whie m driving...it blows out cold air whle sitting still at an idle
 

Last edited by playboy00786; 01-16-2009 at 09:37 PM.
  #2  
Old 01-17-2009, 01:04 AM
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mine seems to be doing the same, my friend even said to me while we were goin down the highway that it was cold by his feet but it was on the flloor, vents and top and high and the temp was 83 on both sides.. what the hells going on ? mine doesnt blow hot air at idle either, it seems no matter how long the car sits to warm up it wont be warm inside my car till i start driving.
 
  #3  
Old 01-17-2009, 02:59 AM
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Ah, ****!

I'm going against the grain, here. Mine does the same, and I am all but sure it is because my waterpump is worn out. I have pretty good heat going down the road at 50. I have great heat when climbing a big hill, engine is working harder.

When I come to a stoplight, it blows cool to cold air. Also, if you should notice, the temp gage will probably fluctuate, go up at a stop, go down when you are moving, ie, pushing a little bit of water through the engine and the heater core.

Have either of you let the engine idle for any length of time? Say, 10 minutes? If I do, it will boil over. That is not thermostat. That is non-circulation.

If you change the water pump, be advised, depending on your mech, it will probably cost almost as much as a timing belt replacement. It is almost as much work, less the cost of the belt, idler and tensioner, and if you are close to needing them, you might as well do them, too.

If either of you do change the pump, please let us know if it is a plastic impeller and if it is worn, and if it helped. I seem to be in the minority, here.

Cheers,

George
 
  #4  
Old 01-17-2009, 02:18 PM
Coors's Avatar
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Originally Posted by gmatov
Ah, ****!

I'm going against the grain, here. Mine does the same, and I am all but sure it is because my waterpump is worn out. I have pretty good heat going down the road at 50. I have great heat when climbing a big hill, engine is working harder.

When I come to a stoplight, it blows cool to cold air. Also, if you should notice, the temp gage will probably fluctuate, go up at a stop, go down when you are moving, ie, pushing a little bit of water through the engine and the heater core.

Have either of you let the engine idle for any length of time? Say, 10 minutes? If I do, it will boil over. That is not thermostat. That is non-circulation.

If you change the water pump, be advised, depending on your mech, it will probably cost almost as much as a timing belt replacement. It is almost as much work, less the cost of the belt, idler and tensioner, and if you are close to needing them, you might as well do them, too.

If either of you do change the pump, please let us know if it is a plastic impeller and if it is worn, and if it helped. I seem to be in the minority, here.

Cheers,

George
I concur. Water pump is not operating efficiently,

From my understanding there are two water pumps. Correct?
Are they depended or mutually exclusive of each other.
 
  #5  
Old 01-17-2009, 06:49 PM
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well i dont have the money to replace all that stuff, and i have an extended warrenty through a company that will replace the waterpump, would it be leaking or what? do you think my warrenty company will replace it because its just not working properly?
 
  #6  
Old 01-19-2009, 03:15 AM
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AudiboiA6,

Goddamn. I never thought of that. I too have a warranty. I will have to get my mech to argue with them to see if they will pay for it.

Coors,

Some have an auxiliary water pump, from what I know, and some don't. Mine is a 12 V V6, no auxiliary. My 85 Turbo did, an electric afterrun to keep the turbo cooled.

Cheers,

George
 
  #7  
Old 01-19-2009, 11:31 AM
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Same problem. I was told to set the temperature to "HI". It seems to blow hotter air that way. But it's nothing like my Crossfires that will almost burn your hand.

If it was your water pump or thermostat, I would expect the water temp gauge to run real hot. If it's sitting consistently in the middle, then I would suspect the heater core OR the heater temperature control. I also think the automatic temp control tends to prevent real hot air from coming out -- it seems to control it to the temperature you request. Since I generally set mine to 69-72, I suspect that's why I don't get real hot air. However, after driving for a little while the car is comfortably warm and probably close to the 69-72 I requested.
 
  #8  
Old 01-20-2009, 01:20 AM
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ppgoal,

One of the experts, here, Auditech, I think, says that the heater has a glitch, you get no heat unless you set it over 74 degrees. Mine is set at HIGH at all times, and the heat is mild at best, and my heater core was flushed when the engine was replaced.

Have ANY of you with heat problem tried as I said to let the engine idle for 10 minutes or so? If it boils over, I don't think you have a bad thermostat, if you have no heat at idle. You have no circulation.

I gotta get mine replaced soon. Sure it is the problem, but am not going to convince any of you unless I can attest to it. Give up. Bite the bullet. And change the TB and Idler and tensioner while you're at it. Will save you some grieg down the road.

Cheers,

George
 
  #9  
Old 01-20-2009, 12:33 PM
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The Audi heater will not turn on until the water is warm -74 is probably correct - so it dosen't blow cold air on the passengers. (Ain't Audi a considerate little sucker?)

Heat flow into the cabin can be a problem if:
1. the Thrmostat dosen't close and the water stays cold.
2. the heater core is plugged
3. the heater blower dosen't work
4. a damper in the heater box dosen't open/close
5. the water pump is not moving water.
6. the heater control system is messed up
7. Low water level

#1 and #2 are the highest probable causes the others have a low chance of being the trouble. I'd guess that 75% of no heat problems are a bad Thermostat. core plugging can be due to no antifreeze maintenance or the use of the wrong antifreeze.

Water pumps usually fail at the seal but I have heard that some Audi's had plastic impellers that cause problems.

The other problems are eazy to diagnose.

My guess is thermostat - if it is do a complete timing belt job including a new water pump etc. (see the Blauparts kit to see what should be done) and a good radiator/heater core flush while your at it.
 
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