Lexus SC400 Down, Audi A6 Up
Well A6 back in garage. Ran vag-com group 093 & 094 tests.
Group 093: Continuous Camshaft Adjustment (Phase Position - Bank 1 && 2)
680 /min Engine Speed (G28)
29.3 % Engine Load
25.0°KW Phase Position Bank 1
25.0°KW Phase Position Bank 2
Bentley says phase spec value should be 0 +/- 6 deg KW, so obviously 25 is way out of spec.
HXGaser: can you double check for me what your elsawin says for spec phase value? (2000 A6 2.7T)
Also ran 094:
Group 094: Continuous Camshaft Adjustment (Intake)
2040 /min Engine Speed (G28)
Cam Ctrl. OFF Adjustment Status
System Not OK Result Bank 1
Test ON Result Bank 2
Bank2 never came back with OK or not OK. Just stayed "Test On"???
"System Not OK"says Check solenoid valve for camshaft adjustment.
1st step is checking fuse for camshaft adj. valve N205.
So where is this fuse located???
I'm at the point to throw in the towel on this & reluctantly bring it to an audi repair place.
I know it'll cost, but maybe they can make better progress.
Group 093: Continuous Camshaft Adjustment (Phase Position - Bank 1 && 2)
680 /min Engine Speed (G28)
29.3 % Engine Load
25.0°KW Phase Position Bank 1
25.0°KW Phase Position Bank 2
Bentley says phase spec value should be 0 +/- 6 deg KW, so obviously 25 is way out of spec.
HXGaser: can you double check for me what your elsawin says for spec phase value? (2000 A6 2.7T)
Also ran 094:
Group 094: Continuous Camshaft Adjustment (Intake)
2040 /min Engine Speed (G28)
Cam Ctrl. OFF Adjustment Status
System Not OK Result Bank 1
Test ON Result Bank 2
Bank2 never came back with OK or not OK. Just stayed "Test On"???
"System Not OK"says Check solenoid valve for camshaft adjustment.
1st step is checking fuse for camshaft adj. valve N205.
So where is this fuse located???
I'm at the point to throw in the towel on this & reluctantly bring it to an audi repair place.
I know it'll cost, but maybe they can make better progress.
I looked through Elsawin, but it never mentions the measuring block 093.
When it comes to checking the solenoid, Elsawin refers to a couple of things. One, the resistance shown through the solenoid should be somewhere between 10-18 Ohms. Two, when you run the function 03 Diagnostic Test Mode, N205 solenoid is activated in the 5th sequence and as long as you hear it click, then it should be functional.
As for the fuse, it should be 34, the same as the fuel pump.
The group 094 test does not activate until the RPM is over 2000.
Long time ago, I was talking to a buddy of mine who is an Audi dealer tech. I remember him telling me a story similar to this situation where he and his fellow techs couldn't figure out the cam/crank out of sequence code. It turned out that the pickup on the cam position sensor was slightly mounted incorrect where the insert tab got flattened a bit. Perhaps worth a second look...
Good luck trying to resolve this thing. Like you said, maybe worth your sanity to take it to a shop. One thing to consider though... You probably know more about this than a typical shop tech. Take it to someone who really knows Audi stuff.
When it comes to checking the solenoid, Elsawin refers to a couple of things. One, the resistance shown through the solenoid should be somewhere between 10-18 Ohms. Two, when you run the function 03 Diagnostic Test Mode, N205 solenoid is activated in the 5th sequence and as long as you hear it click, then it should be functional.
As for the fuse, it should be 34, the same as the fuel pump.
The group 094 test does not activate until the RPM is over 2000.
Long time ago, I was talking to a buddy of mine who is an Audi dealer tech. I remember him telling me a story similar to this situation where he and his fellow techs couldn't figure out the cam/crank out of sequence code. It turned out that the pickup on the cam position sensor was slightly mounted incorrect where the insert tab got flattened a bit. Perhaps worth a second look...
Good luck trying to resolve this thing. Like you said, maybe worth your sanity to take it to a shop. One thing to consider though... You probably know more about this than a typical shop tech. Take it to someone who really knows Audi stuff.
Thanks Hxgaser.
Solenoids passed each of the tests & can hear each get activated (click) during solenoid diagnostics. Didn't bother hunting for the fuse as I expect if solenoids work then fuse must be OK.
On the group 094 test I saw that rpm must be >2000K. It was, but only bank 1 ever read anything. Bank 2 went from test off to test on, but never came back & said OK or Not OK. Odd, since I ran this same test back in Dec. & it came back with both Not OK.
Speaking of oddities, we have quite an inconsistency between RPM on the vag-com & on the instrumentation cluster tach. I've always been going by the vag-com. I figure something is also wrong with the tach.
vagcom tach
(rpm) (rpm)
680 1000
960 1400
1360 2000
1640 2500
1920 3000
2360 3500
Lastly, for today at least, I'll be looking for a german car repair garage (audi, BMW, etc.), rather than bringing it to dealer. Hopefully can still get experienced mechanics that I'll be quizzing for answers. Initially just paying for diagnosis & repair recommendations.
Solenoids passed each of the tests & can hear each get activated (click) during solenoid diagnostics. Didn't bother hunting for the fuse as I expect if solenoids work then fuse must be OK.
On the group 094 test I saw that rpm must be >2000K. It was, but only bank 1 ever read anything. Bank 2 went from test off to test on, but never came back & said OK or Not OK. Odd, since I ran this same test back in Dec. & it came back with both Not OK.
Speaking of oddities, we have quite an inconsistency between RPM on the vag-com & on the instrumentation cluster tach. I've always been going by the vag-com. I figure something is also wrong with the tach.
vagcom tach
(rpm) (rpm)
680 1000
960 1400
1360 2000
1640 2500
1920 3000
2360 3500
Lastly, for today at least, I'll be looking for a german car repair garage (audi, BMW, etc.), rather than bringing it to dealer. Hopefully can still get experienced mechanics that I'll be quizzing for answers. Initially just paying for diagnosis & repair recommendations.
I just spoke to owner/mechanic at local Audi/BMW repair shop & he suggested I'm pass due to replacement of the cam chains & tensioner. Said the combination of chain stretch, & tensioner wear can throw off the cam-crank phasing correlation. Also, as Hxgaser has said, be sure to use cam lock bar to get the timing belt positioned correctly; very sensitive to being misaligned.
He didn't show me anything to verify the cam chain count on each side, but just said 15 roller between marks. Here we go again on roller count! My wife said the other night I was talking in my sleep about the Audi. I was probably counting rollers & not sheep. Ha-Ha.
Tensioners are $$$ vs $ for chains & shoes. My tensioners tested OK as I mentioned before, so maybe I'll just do chain & shoes 1st to save a buck.
Anyone ever change the tensioner shoes only? Last time I looked, it wasn't clear how they come off/on. Here's shoe link: Amazon.com: #C062 97-06 Audi Timing Chain Tensioner Pads A4 A6 S4 TT Allroad 1.8 2.7 2.8 3.0 L 97 98 99 00 01 02 03 04 05 06: Automotive
He didn't show me anything to verify the cam chain count on each side, but just said 15 roller between marks. Here we go again on roller count! My wife said the other night I was talking in my sleep about the Audi. I was probably counting rollers & not sheep. Ha-Ha.
Tensioners are $$$ vs $ for chains & shoes. My tensioners tested OK as I mentioned before, so maybe I'll just do chain & shoes 1st to save a buck.
Anyone ever change the tensioner shoes only? Last time I looked, it wasn't clear how they come off/on. Here's shoe link: Amazon.com: #C062 97-06 Audi Timing Chain Tensioner Pads A4 A6 S4 TT Allroad 1.8 2.7 2.8 3.0 L 97 98 99 00 01 02 03 04 05 06: Automotive
Can't say that I have done that, but I heard may folks replacing the pads only. Look at this thread.
quattroworld.com Forums: Replacing cam chain tensioner and/or pads on bank #1 of 40V motor (shorter cut)...
V8 but should be the same.
quattroworld.com Forums: Replacing cam chain tensioner and/or pads on bank #1 of 40V motor (shorter cut)...
V8 but should be the same.
All the cam chain jobs I've done and info I've read calls out 16 links INCLUDING the ones directly aligned with the indicators (or 14 in between them). If you're not set up that way, the cams would be out of phase, and very likely would be the cause of the timing and misfire codes. Using a different link count in one head vs the other makes no sense when the CCTs are the same design and part, and the chains are the same - that'd absolutely take one cam out of phase.
Prior to doing my first cam tensioner job I asked a couple Audi techs and they reaffirmed the info I'd read, that 16 links is correct.
Prior to doing my first cam tensioner job I asked a couple Audi techs and they reaffirmed the info I'd read, that 16 links is correct.
As I've posted before, I'm at 14 rollers btwn marks as indicated in attached pic. As long as that's right then something else is the problem. As I'm going thru the Bentley manual I noticed they call out the cam position sensor (CPS) number at 2 different locations. Yes, I know there are 2 sensors, one for bank 1 & another for bank 2, but which one is G40 vs G163? I had thought G40 was bank 1 @ front right, but I now see that Bentley says differently in other areas of the manual. Those of you (aka HXgaser) that may have another manual, can you see where they say is CPS G40 location?
I know this won't solve my missfire problems , but it doesn't help me to have poor documentation of the sensors involved. Thanks again!
I know this won't solve my missfire problems , but it doesn't help me to have poor documentation of the sensors involved. Thanks again!
I've heard of critters getting into the engine compartment, but I wasn't expecting this. On the positive side, at least it's not a python, as they are starting to take over the Everglades.


