That ATF fluid kit is excellent (same one I bought in the past) and @ $ 63 is really not bad at all with everything included on that list. However, you'll endup needing more - I can bet my beefy on it, so buy an extra quart (if not two). That "Multivehicle Formula Synthetic ATF - Mobil1" is about $ 8.40 @ AutoZone.
Lots of folks suggest the same vendor (Blau) for their TB kits. You can also rent the tools from them for a hefty fee (which you get back provided you return the tools within a week - minus $ 40 which is what they charge nowadays for renting, I believe).
I bought and still buy all my TB-related parts from Arizona Autohaus. Everything I got from them was made in Europe (not that's automatically a "shopping barometer"). However, as a general rule of thumb I typically shop around the most "reputable" vendors including ECSTuning, GenuineVWAudiParts.com, Pelican, PartsGeek, RockAuto, etc, etc, and depending on a brand/price/shipping/tax combo (don't pay attention to this, I'm a basket case) I make my decision where I ultimately purchase from.

 

After my post last night, I saw the TB kits and stuff on Blau this morning. $216 for all the bits seems fairly reasonable but I didn't check shipping ($15). $40 to rent a tool seems a bit steep. I will check some of the other suggested sites.
I usually shop around for best combo of price/shipping/tax also. The blaupart TB combo has a lot of parts I wont have to hunt and pick separately. That is a HEFTY deposit on that tool! I think asking to borrow one or buy one outright on ebay maybe a better way to go.
Blauparts is in WI so I will pay tax also. I have to see if I can find the serp belt length. When I had the cover off the visible printing was illegible.

Once I have the parts, it looks like a decent day of work, nothing tough or impossible.

Don't have a Bentley or owners manuals yet.....

 

The Bentley manual on DVD-Rom can still be found for around $ 88. I didn't pay attention if you said you only want a printed repair manual, or not. I may have read that line in someone else's posts.
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I bought my serpentine belt at the same time with the timing belt from ArizAutohaus. Was a perfect fit. If your FWD is an AFC engine, then you need the 21.36 x 1863 mm one (Part # 6PK1863; 0r Audi # 078 903 137 AQ )
From VIN #S020001 to VIN #T050001. #
The "genuine" one (Audi part number is more expensive, but they're the same damn thing - Contitech made)
6PK1863: $ 20.20 @ ArizAutohaus, $ 17.94 @ PartsGeek, $ 24.95 @ EcsTuning
"Genuine" one: from $ 30.24 @ GenuineVWAudiparts.com, and up...
I purchased my own cam locking bar (3242) and crank pin(3243) off EBay from the very beginning. If you plan on keeping the car, is a VERY WISE decision to purchase them. They're around $ 100. I already used them several times and are time savers and guesswork eliminators.

 

Just an FYI, my wife has a 95 with 156k. These cars are well-known for water intrusion. You may want to pull the molding and driver seat carpeting and check the condition of the left foot brace and area directly below. Not sure the climate you live in but when I did this suspecting I had water in vehicle I found the area filed with water and dirt along with severe corrosion going halfway up the foot brace.....Good vehicles overall but you'll need to take care of them.

 

I think it is the A motor - required the smaller oil filter.
- Need to find a place to tap for oil pressure -
Ill probably be ordering the timing and tranny kits in the next week. I found the cam lock on ebay for around $80 shipped.

I would like a physical manual - easier to carry in the car vs. a laptop that may or not have battery power to get an emergency job done on the side of a road. But I'll get a CD/DVD set if thats all I can find.

I have the VAG-Com connection now but have not tried it at all.

I've gotten an CHECK ENGINE light a couple times - comes on and may or may not go off in a few minutes - I'm watching the gauges. Even on an easy cool drive this morning it came on but went off before I got to work.

I did get an owners manual form a salvage yard for $20 shipped. Learned that the flashing "in.2" below the odometer indicates time for a service inspection. Something else to check on.

Thanks for the heads up on possible water issues.
The climate in WI is pretty wide, from cold wet salty, to hot humid monsoon, usually over the course of a few days.
I will check under the carpets. With last nights storms, the carpet is dry on top.

Steve

 

Steve,
if you have (and keep) the plenum drain hole free of debris then you don't have much to worry about water ingress.
However, you can also inspect the rubber/weatherstrip around the fresh air vent exchange flap. You need to remove the glove box, but it doesn't take too long (4 x 10M bolts/nuts).
That would be the only other area with question mark.
Nevertheless, it's a good little project to look for water under the carpet/s, as altona said. It doesn't hurt a bit.
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I had a totally different problem with water when I purchased mine (was December). I operated the sunroof at least to see it functioning (purchased mine from Florida...), which it did. When I retracted it, I heard a pop but didn't know what to make of it since the sunroof closed ok...
Well, I got home and we had that week a nasty ice storm, followed by snow...LOL
I thought I saw a wet spot on the headliner, but since I removed the snow/ice the very next day it wasn't much "water" that sipped through.
Then I went to visit my best buddy to show him the car (he's a Jetta owner) and it was a pouring rain... he wanted to check out the ride, so here we go around the neighborhood... He was the one who noticed the wet headliner around the sunroof opening...
Well, long story short, it turned out that the rain tray's connecting arms had snapped and the tray would not slide back to its place when the sunroof would close... Had no idea at the time. I posted that experience with images as well somewhere around here...
Ended up epoxying those arms and never used the sunroof again, although is functioning now...

 

the sunroof on this car is hard to get it to stop in the right spot

Coming from work today just 1/2 mile from home the coolant warning light came on, but the gauge wasn't up much - right at the first bold line.
Sat int he driveway for a minute and eventually blew some coolant -(which is very green and not blue like Id thought looking in the bottle) I turned the heat on high but didn't get any heat.
I was hoping I might get the water pump out or off the cam belt to see if it is pumping. Doesn't look like I can quite do that.

Over 300 miles since I got it, my dad and I have both had a few cars where the water pump failed within a couple hundred miles of purchase, I suppose that's my luck again

 

this was a duplicate and I haven't managed to delete it so this is all this post will say.

 

Do a search on "coolant" and I'm sure you'll come across a lot of good posts about the "green" coolant and our systems.
The C4s came with blue coolant, indeed. I switched to Zerex G05, which is the closest formulation-wise to the original coolant.
Obviously the previous owner or the dealer you purchased the car from did some work on the car and threw in some cheap-*** coolant. It is possible they didn't bleed it right and you have air pockets somewhere. There are two bleeders - one by the heater valve, and the other on the rear main pipe.
Drain that green **** and refill with good coolant. You'll have to undo the engine drain plug though, which you can locate on the bottom of the engine, right by the mounting flange with the transmission. The other drain is at the bottom of the radiator, passenger side.
Undo the heater hoses and flush with water thoroughly. Do same thing with the engine until you get some clear water draining.
Reinstall the engine drain plug. Screw back in the radiator plug.
Refill the system with the heater bleeder open - is the highest point in the system. When the coolant starts flowing steadily, close it. Next, open the rear main pipe and observe also a steady flow. Close it.
Then finally you can start the car and run it with the heat on high until warms up to normal operating temperature and the cooling fans kick in.
I purchased mine with green coolant as well. The resellers try to invest as less as possible in these old gals, but in turn they gyp your pockets for as much as they can get out of you, it seems.
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For the sunroof, it may be possible you need a new potentiometer if it doesn't close right.

 

I did find the bleeder on the heater line. I didn't find the rear pipe bleeder - still gotta order the manual discs.
I re-topped the system got some air out and then ran it and had a ton of heat .
Drove a about 2 miles, and no return of the issue. We made a 100 mile round trip last weekend, highway and 90+F without a blip.
I'll be doing the TB and all the associated bits in the next week or so.

I looked a little bit - rockauto.com for the sunroof switch but didn't find one yet. Ill keep looking - just saw a small thread about cleaning them.