New PCV system. Still losing oil...
#1
New PCV system. Still losing oil...
hey everyone its been a while since i been on here. i have a question that has me rather stumped. last month i finally got around to replacing my whole entire pcv system because i had some nasty leaks causing me to add oil every 200-300 miles of driving. after the replacement those leaks went away except for one behind the passenger side head which even then leaks on to the ground once in while. there really is no smoke or burned oil coming from the car and im constantly checking under the car after driving and its dry for the most part under the engine and on the ground where im parked over. i have put in about 800 miles into the car with the new pcv system but this morning i finally had to add oil. on saturday morning though i checked and it was at proper level and this morning i checked after driving yesterday and i was showing just slightly above the min mark on my dipstick. what gives? why did my level drop so quick? there is really no visible oil on the ground and the underside of the engine is dry.
Thanks,
2001 Audi A6 Avant quattro 2.8 V6 183,310 miles
Thanks,
2001 Audi A6 Avant quattro 2.8 V6 183,310 miles
#3
As far as im concerned there is nothing coming out of the tailpipes in the back ive even accelerated hard while watching my rearview mirror to see if i catch anything out of the usual. Correct me if im wrong but i read somewhere that the 2.8 does burn some oil between changes? Or maybe i leaked so long that im just paranoid?
#4
sorry for the long post
#5
My 2.8 30v leaked at the cam plugs, 1/2 moons and the valve cover gaskets but it was noticeable in the cabin. Burning oil smell and some times I could see oil smoke coming from the hood/fender crease.
I would concentrate on known leaks first. Pop the valve covers and re-do the cam plugs etc and new gaskets all around and see what happens.
Good luck.
I would concentrate on known leaks first. Pop the valve covers and re-do the cam plugs etc and new gaskets all around and see what happens.
Good luck.
#6
My 2.8 30v leaked at the cam plugs, 1/2 moons and the valve cover gaskets but it was noticeable in the cabin. Burning oil smell and some times I could see oil smoke coming from the hood/fender crease.
I would concentrate on known leaks first. Pop the valve covers and re-do the cam plugs etc and new gaskets all around and see what happens.
Good luck.
I would concentrate on known leaks first. Pop the valve covers and re-do the cam plugs etc and new gaskets all around and see what happens.
Good luck.
#7
Oil loss
Lots of instructions on cams removal but make sure you read up before you go taking things apart. The cams are under some pressure due to impact with valves so things like to move. Can be scary if you are not prepared.
When/if you do this use black RTV on the corners of the vcg and let it cure a full 24 hours before lighting the fires. Don't use goop on the other seals.
Alternatively, if you are not noticing burning oil smells you could just keep adding oil as needed (and wait until timing belt service time to do the seals. Easier that way.) This will have the affect of keeping the oil fresh like some old timey "constant loss" engines. They were made to leak oil so that oil had to be added frequently. Then all you have to do is change the filter once in awhile and you're good to go.
#8
Not too hard. You will have to lift the cams slightly but there have been some guys who have had success just loosening up the bolts that hold them down and gently lifting them just enough to get the new half moons and adjuster seals in. The cam cap covers are easy, just pop them on.
Lots of instructions on cams removal but make sure you read up before you go taking things apart. The cams are under some pressure due to impact with valves so things like to move. Can be scary if you are not prepared.
When/if you do this use black RTV on the corners of the vcg and let it cure a full 24 hours before lighting the fires. Don't use goop on the other seals.
Alternatively, if you are not noticing burning oil smells you could just keep adding oil as needed (and wait until timing belt service time to do the seals. Easier that way.) This will have the affect of keeping the oil fresh like some old timey "constant loss" engines. They were made to leak oil so that oil had to be added frequently. Then all you have to do is change the filter once in awhile and you're good to go.
Lots of instructions on cams removal but make sure you read up before you go taking things apart. The cams are under some pressure due to impact with valves so things like to move. Can be scary if you are not prepared.
When/if you do this use black RTV on the corners of the vcg and let it cure a full 24 hours before lighting the fires. Don't use goop on the other seals.
Alternatively, if you are not noticing burning oil smells you could just keep adding oil as needed (and wait until timing belt service time to do the seals. Easier that way.) This will have the affect of keeping the oil fresh like some old timey "constant loss" engines. They were made to leak oil so that oil had to be added frequently. Then all you have to do is change the filter once in awhile and you're good to go.
O and also will changing my oil completely with filter and everything cause any possible weak seals to start leaking because of the detergents in the fresh clean engine oil?
Last edited by SubaruHyundaiAudi; 09-17-2014 at 09:51 PM.