Oil change query
#3
Well, before reading (and "getting" all the wonderful help from this forum) about "who's who of Audi oil, filters, tool rental, etc", I happened to use a Fram filter (Extended Guard - 6 bucks at WalMart) and the surroundings are as dry as the desert... Probably I must be one of the lucky ones.
#4
And an attempt to answer to your questions:
1) the oil preference is as different as people are. If you cannot afford to buy the more expensive brands from dealers/specialized auto parts stores such as BlauParts (the sole mentioning of the word and it makes NH happy), you can go safely with Castrol Syntec or Mobil 1 0W-30/40, the most preferred brands people in here appear to use. QuakerState and AmSoil were other brands mentioned around. Probably Valvoline Platinum may be as well included.
2) Along with the oil change, and while under the car, you surely can inspect for torn CV boots, bent control arms, leaks of any nature, etc.
In addition, it may be the proper time for a lube job (greasing).
#5
Well, before reading (and "getting" all the wonderful help from this forum) about "who's who of Audi oil, filters, tool rental, etc", I happened to use a Fram filter (Extended Guard - 6 bucks at WalMart) and the surroundings are as dry as the desert... Probably I must be one of the lucky ones.
Perhaps it is my personal preference, but I don't trust Fram filters. You should open one up and compare the filter element with Mann, or Wix.
#6
When I don't have a Mann around (which, well, is sometimes more often then I care to admit), I've had no leaking problems with Pureolater. Not the most stunning filter in the world, but they work.
As for oil, Chefro said it best: the preference is as different as people are. That being said, a lot of folks on here run Mobil1 0 or 5w-30/40 and seem to have good luck with it.
-Red
As for oil, Chefro said it best: the preference is as different as people are. That being said, a lot of folks on here run Mobil1 0 or 5w-30/40 and seem to have good luck with it.
-Red
#7
Yet to me sounds better "you should open (yourself) and compare..." - obviously that person has experience with the product, issue - rather than "I heard that someone..." (which it means...well, everybody is free to fill in the blanks).
I just wanted to share MY experience with Fram filters. Everyone is entitled to their own opinion (or not?) and preferences (" De gustibus non disputandum"), yet "trust of a particular brand" I believe shouldn't be based solely on preference, but on usage/experience/performance.
#8
In 40+ years of driving, I have had several filters get punctures from road "missiles" or whatever you want to call them.
I've had only 1, a Fram, blow the canister off the flange, literally ripped the can from the rolled crimp at the screw on end. You know, the rolled crimp like a can of soup. That had not been on very long, had changed the oil for a summer camping trip, only 100 miles from home.
Oh, Ford F150, 300 CI 6 cyl.
Oil, I wish I knew, myself. Ask 10 people, 10 different choices, and each the very best. 'Bout the best I can offer is that a long time ago, Consumer Reports had a study of oils that said they were all about the same. Their main recommendation was to change religiously every, at that time, 3,000 miles. Reason: Oil is a long chain polymer, and constant squishing and clipping from pressure of sliding and rotating parts cut the chains, they lose their lubricating properties. Synthetics did no better, though at that time they cost about 5 times as much.
Today, with the price of a can of oil at 2.50 or more at the parts house, and synthetics about 5 bucks, buy what you want and change every 3,000, instead of the 5 to 7500 that the car makers are trying to tell you is "Recommended".
Oil changes are the cheapest insurance you can buy for your car.
Cheers,
George
Along with NH_USA, change the filter EVERY time.
I've had only 1, a Fram, blow the canister off the flange, literally ripped the can from the rolled crimp at the screw on end. You know, the rolled crimp like a can of soup. That had not been on very long, had changed the oil for a summer camping trip, only 100 miles from home.
Oh, Ford F150, 300 CI 6 cyl.
Oil, I wish I knew, myself. Ask 10 people, 10 different choices, and each the very best. 'Bout the best I can offer is that a long time ago, Consumer Reports had a study of oils that said they were all about the same. Their main recommendation was to change religiously every, at that time, 3,000 miles. Reason: Oil is a long chain polymer, and constant squishing and clipping from pressure of sliding and rotating parts cut the chains, they lose their lubricating properties. Synthetics did no better, though at that time they cost about 5 times as much.
Today, with the price of a can of oil at 2.50 or more at the parts house, and synthetics about 5 bucks, buy what you want and change every 3,000, instead of the 5 to 7500 that the car makers are trying to tell you is "Recommended".
Oil changes are the cheapest insurance you can buy for your car.
Cheers,
George
Along with NH_USA, change the filter EVERY time.
#9
Since I red a horror story (in the former Quattro list) about Fram filters desintegrating and sucked into the engine => I never used Fram again.
Try to avoid filters with:
Cartridge End Cap Type Cardboard => should be Stamped steel
Do search "Oil filter study " on the Internet - there is plenty of info there.
Try to avoid filters with:
Cartridge End Cap Type Cardboard => should be Stamped steel
Do search "Oil filter study " on the Internet - there is plenty of info there.
#10
You just heard/read ..." A (meaning only one) horror story", but actually you didn;t experience anything of that sort. Do I ssume right?
QED